Jalie 2787 and onto trousers!

I decided to take a break from pants and sew something easy.  Well, relatively easy for me: a knit top!  I selected Jalie 2787, women's criss-cross top, in the 3/4 sleeve version.  I traced out the pattern one evening, then sewed it a few nights later.  It went together very quickly--I cut it out and assembled all in one evening.  I like the fit, I like the drapes--there is enough drape in the bodice top that my it fits well, not too tight or too loose.  The pattern is designed that it can be used by nursing moms--uhh, not my situation, but that's not apparent to anyone but the wearer.   I selected a lovely black and white floral jersey with a bit of sparkle that was gifted to me at the last BABES meeting--thank you, Georgene!  I'll try to take pics this weekend.  I'm already planning on making it again. 

Tonight I traced out an old BWOF pattern from the plus section of September 2005, #129 . Here is the BWOF-September-129  technical drawing.   Earlier this year, I purchased some Knip XL issues.  I saw a very similar pattern for cargo pants, that features the curved insert on the front leg, as well as lots of pockets.   I really liked them and my original plan was to puzzle though the Dutch instructions as well as stretching my sewing skills.   Of course, I am at the beginning side of the learning curve for sewing trousers,  so I decided to hone my skills with an English language pattern.   When I came across this pattern, I decided that I'll start with this one.  I have this one traced, and I'll flat pattern measure it (thank you for the suggestion, Mary Beth!).   I think that the BWOF trousers are more fitted/less baggy, and I'll skip the extra pockets until I get a great fit.   

Well, we'll see what happens.  :)

denim doesn't drape, especially if it's frugal denim

I've been sewing, not blogging. What have I been sewing trousers.

Over the past few weeks I have developed an even stronger respect for anyone who has sewn well fitting pants. Simplicity 3880--I finished the yellow canvas cargo pant. They are very loose fitting--I can put them on without undoing the wonderful fly zipper application I installed. I made Jalie's 2909 (the classic trouser), in the largest size--they are also too loose and can be pulled on, without bothering to lower the zipper. I have to say though---the fabric drapes very well, and it doesn't look like I'm wearing pajamas. I'm planning on removing the waistband of the 2909 pants, taking them in (side seams and darts) and then reapplying the waistband. I might just donate the yellow pair. I guess I have body image issues and problems with selecting the proper size. I'm also realizing that if I'm not explicitly making muslins, using practice fabric, when I use fashion fabric, I *will* be making a muslin using the fashion fabric.

On Sunday I decided to sew a pair denim pants--I chose some inexpensive denim that I purchased from Joann's, because I knew that I would be heavily altering the trousers to fit as I was sewing them. Over the past few years, I have gained inches in the waist, so much so that I hate wearing jeans: the waistband is too tight, and I think that the rear rise is too short--wearing store bought jeans is an uncomfortable experience.  

So what pattern did I use? The Simplicity 3880 cargo pants pattern, extended to ankle length.  Not the most logical choice for snug fitting jean--but I decided that I wanted looser fitting trousers made from denim (no back yoke). What I didn't fully realize was that the cargo pants by design are loose fitting.   Since I selected a size that was too large, the first attempt was waaay too loose. They looked very clownlike especially when sewn in a stiffer fabric, like denim, since it denim doesn't drape.

Well, it was a fun experience--after assembling the major pieces: fronts, and backs and connecting them at the center (crotch seam) I had kept taking in deeper darts, and taking in the side seams until I got the fit I liked. All in all, I think I took in about an inch on each side seam (hip to ankle)  and about about 1/2 inch in the darts each.   I skipped adding the patched pockets.  I'm very happy with the results.  The trousers are in the laundry right now--the fabric picked up a lot of dust/flaky dye when washed with another fabric and I'm planning on wearing these on Friday.