May Recap

What did I sew during the Merry Month of May?

Six pairs of Marrakesh pants.

1. one in heavy rayon suiting (from Fabrics R Us in San Jose via the stash).
2. one in a slate grey flannel (from the stash from somewhere). I honestly cannot remember how I acquired this fabric. My stash may be reproducing on it's own--it would explain all the lint I find in my apartment.
3. one in a green textured linen (from Elliot Berman, owned less than 2 weeks before cutting!). These are fun, because I used a quilting cotton in a US dollar print for the pockets and waistband lining--I'll always have money in my pockets!
4. one in wild burgundy and cream plaid, with a lime green line (from a Hancock Fabrics store closure, from the stash, and it's at least a year old). And yes, I matched the plaids on all the seams, including the center back seam which matches horizontally, but not vertically (because the plaid is uneven). I love these pants---they remind me of a pair of Perry Ellis plaid pants that I wore when I was in high school. I still have those pants--I'm never going to fit in them again, but just looking at them in my closet makes me smile.
5. one in a reddish-pink cottony/lineny blend. This pair of pants frays whenever I launder it-these pants are not going to last through the summer because the I didn't take the time to finish all the seams. The allowances are topstitched down, but the unfinished edges are going to erode away like a cliffside hit by ocean waves at high tide (from Fabrics R Us, owned less than 1 week before cutting).
6. one embroidered khaki linen/cotton blend (from Happy Stop, owned less than 1 week before cutting). A fun neutral color, but the embroidery makes it a little more special than the plain khaki pants that are all over Silicon Valley.

After sewing six pairs of these pants, I can sew this pattern from memory, including the fly zipper. Sewing the Marrakesh pattern from memory doesn't mean that I didn't make mistakes, but I was able to catch them and fix them before they went too far. Regarding zippers: I watched the Threads/Sandra Betzina video a few times while I was sewing the first two pairs, but last night when I pulled out my pattern for the BWOF 402 pants (I need to have more trousers in my wardrobe rotation), I didn't hesitate to put in the zipper for muslin. I must have been upset when I last tried sewing the 402 pants, as I found the pattern all crumpled up. Luckily, Swedish tracing paper irons very well.

More sewing--Four Sunshine tops:

1. one in purple & white stretch (rayon & lycra?) fabric from Michael Levine Loft (purchased in February 2010.
2. one in a brown tribal cotton lycra (from an online coop, via the stash, at least 1 year old). This may be too informal for work, but it's great to wear on weekends
3. A combination of a black rayon/lycra and a remnant of black/red/white/beige stretch lycra (from Happy Stop, at least 3 years old). Definitely suitable for work.
4. A black and white small/geometric stretch lycra, from a BABES exchange, I think (age unknown). I debated using a solid color for the collar and I elected not to. I think that was not the best decision. The result is a very busy looking shirt. I'll wear it a couple of times before I decide if it's a pass/fail.

I can understand why this pattern is so popular--it's a great/fashionable shirt that got a little more going on than a simple t-shirt--its very flattering. But it's easy to sew.

And I made two other tops:

1 Simplicity 4076 (the simple t-shirt) made from a red and white chain-link patten (from Gorgeous Fabrics from about 4 years ago, via the stash). Definitely suitable for work. I like it because it's bright.

1 Burda 7970 T-shirt, made from a Gustav Klimt cotton lycra from Fabrix (owned less than 2 weeks before cutting). Very suitable--I wore it today. It might be better for Fall/Autumn, but I really like the rich colors.

1 Simplicity 2614. This is a pullover top (made from a woven) and it's custom fit pattern (A-D cups). Another plus is that it doesn't require buttonholes. Laura--thank you bringing this pattern to my attention. I made two muslins, the second one in a clearly defined striped shirting, which didn't seem to work. The back and lower front is cut on the bias (which is why you can pull it on over your head) and the stripes just look awkward. I think that a small scale pattern (floral or checks) will work better. I did pull some fabrics out of the stash for this project, but I got busy with other patterns.

I also have one garment which hasn't quite reached UFO status--one pair of McCall's shorts--I need to re-cut the waistband, and attach that. It's been sitting at my cutting table for 2 weeks.

I also went through part of my fabric and notion stash (I'd get overwhelmed if I went through ALL of it). I pulled out and re-folded some of my knits and stretch fabrics, selecting some for the different t-shirts tops that I planned on sewing (but I didn't get around to sewing ALL of them LOL!). I also went through my stash of interfacing, and I think that I'm set for the next few years, unless someone figures out a way to make garments completely out of interfacing. *smile*

There was a meme travelling around the blogosphere --Me-Made-May*. I followed along, trying to wear clothing that I had made (of course, I didn't take any pictures). I had problems on Fridays--we have casual Fridays at work, and while I have made some jeans, I just don't like the way they fit. So one of my upcoming projects is to make another pair of jeans (or pants from denim), so I have something to wear on Fridays.

*There will be a follow up in the Fall, Self-Stitched September, so maybe I'll try to participate in that.

HotPatterns Marrakesh Pants part 2

I've finished two wearable pairs of HotPatterns Marrakesh Pants. I made the second pair from the mystery slate gray flannel. For this pair, I decided not to alter the pattern and trim outside seam at the hip line (and the pockets). I think that they turned out very well--I still have to sew on the hook and eye at the waistband. I'm glad that I removed a quarter inch from the front legs--the pants are still drapey, but they are not billowy. There is still some extra fabric gathered at the waist, but it's not excessive (altering the outside seam would fix that). After writing this post, I've viewed Trudy's Marrakesh Pants video and it looks like there is no extra fabric gathering at the waist. I may need to look at my draft again...

I've lowered the waistline on the pattern for the third pair, which will be made from linen. I consider this linen as the really good stuff from the stash, especially since it usually retails for $12 a yard (I got it on sale for $6 a yard earlier this month. This yardage hasn't aged at all in my stash LOL!). I shouldn't get too worried when cutting this out--I'm familiar with the Marrakesh pattern, since I've sewn it several times. I made the first two pairs from woven fabrics with crosswise stretch. The linen doesn't have any crosswise stretch, but I'll double check the fit of the pattern before cutting, as well as comparing pattern to the second pair of pants.

Fabric prep--I washed the linen the other night, and I've pressed it (with steam) to remove the wrinkles (suggested by Sandra Betzina's Fabric Savvy). I'm glad that I pre-washed the fabric-- the lint catcher in the dryer was filled when I dried this load of fabric yardage. It could have been the linen or it could have been another piece, but I'm glad that I'm not going to encounter that dust when sewing. Right now, I'm letting the fabric rest on the cutting table for two reasons: I don't like to cut fabric late at night (or early in the morning). The second reason is there has been some discussion on sewing blogs/boards that fabric gets stretched when it's tightly wound on bolts, so it should be allowed to relax and contract before it's cut into garments. Even if the fabric relaxed after I laundered it, I may have stretched it when I pressed it. So the fabric is resting, spread over and gently folded on my cutting table, with all the notions assembled and ready to go. I guess that sewist and the fabric should be relaxed before cutting.

I know--I don't have any pictures of my work. I'll try to get some up after the third pair. I'm in awe of those bloggers post with pictures every time!

HotPatterns Wong Singh Jones Marrakesh Pants

After three muslins (made from muslin), I have made one wearable pair of HotPatterns Wong Singh Jones Marrakesh Pants. Yaaaay! Muslin number one was straight from the pattern. I found that I needed to increase the length of the U of my crotch, more on the back pants piece than in the front. I also added some on the sideseam (on the back piece). I made my first wearable pair from a grey fabric pinstriped with silver thread--it has a really nice drape, while it's soft to wear. I can't remember from where I got this: it could have been Fabrix, Fabrics R Us, or Happy Stop.

I'm happy with the final results, but I think that there are more fitting problems issues to fine-tune:

• I think that the front is a little too loose/drapey, so I'm folding out a .25 inch from the front piece, right along the center of the pattern piece.
• The waistline is a hybrid of elastic and drawstring, along with a zipper--I like how Trudy designed this. I've noticed that very easy to gather a lot of fabric on a drawstring, and this excess fabric will create a bulky waistline, but because of this design I think that I can shave about 1 to 1.5 inches from around the waist (from the front and back pants pattern pieces). If I remove this extra fabric, it will help provide better shaping to my waist. I can probably be more aggressive with removing extra fabric around the waist because the zipper will allow me pull the pants around around my hips. I'm debating if I want to keep the inseam pockets because reshaping the waist-to-hip curve means I'll have to check pockets, too. Many of the other sewists who have made this pattern eliminated the pockets completely. Decisions, decisions.

My next fabric will be a mystery slate grey piece that I pulled out of my stash. I was going to use a striped piece of black rayon (I think that it's rayon) that I purchased from Fabrix. Last night I pulled it out of my stash, removed the machine basting (I sew the ends of my fabric together when I prewash, then store the fabric with the basting. That way, I know that I washed it) and then I laid it out on my cutting table so that I could work on it when I got home. Then I realized that I was going to be altering and tweaking the fit again, and I thought about the strong stripes, so I went digging though my fabric stash again. I found the mystery slate grey piece along with some really colorful (and even) plaid pieces (that I know that I purchased from Fabrix). The plaids are currently in the wash with some recently acquired linen (which I will be labeling with their origin after the are removed from the dryer).