denim doesn't drape, especially if it's frugal denim

I've been sewing, not blogging. What have I been sewing trousers.

Over the past few weeks I have developed an even stronger respect for anyone who has sewn well fitting pants. Simplicity 3880--I finished the yellow canvas cargo pant. They are very loose fitting--I can put them on without undoing the wonderful fly zipper application I installed. I made Jalie's 2909 (the classic trouser), in the largest size--they are also too loose and can be pulled on, without bothering to lower the zipper. I have to say though---the fabric drapes very well, and it doesn't look like I'm wearing pajamas. I'm planning on removing the waistband of the 2909 pants, taking them in (side seams and darts) and then reapplying the waistband. I might just donate the yellow pair. I guess I have body image issues and problems with selecting the proper size. I'm also realizing that if I'm not explicitly making muslins, using practice fabric, when I use fashion fabric, I *will* be making a muslin using the fashion fabric.

On Sunday I decided to sew a pair denim pants--I chose some inexpensive denim that I purchased from Joann's, because I knew that I would be heavily altering the trousers to fit as I was sewing them. Over the past few years, I have gained inches in the waist, so much so that I hate wearing jeans: the waistband is too tight, and I think that the rear rise is too short--wearing store bought jeans is an uncomfortable experience.  

So what pattern did I use? The Simplicity 3880 cargo pants pattern, extended to ankle length.  Not the most logical choice for snug fitting jean--but I decided that I wanted looser fitting trousers made from denim (no back yoke). What I didn't fully realize was that the cargo pants by design are loose fitting.   Since I selected a size that was too large, the first attempt was waaay too loose. They looked very clownlike especially when sewn in a stiffer fabric, like denim, since it denim doesn't drape.

Well, it was a fun experience--after assembling the major pieces: fronts, and backs and connecting them at the center (crotch seam) I had kept taking in deeper darts, and taking in the side seams until I got the fit I liked. All in all, I think I took in about an inch on each side seam (hip to ankle)  and about about 1/2 inch in the darts each.   I skipped adding the patched pockets.  I'm very happy with the results.  The trousers are in the laundry right now--the fabric picked up a lot of dust/flaky dye when washed with another fabric and I'm planning on wearing these on Friday.

surfacing and planning

I'm still around and I'm still sewing. I just haven't been blogging. I'm almost finished with Simplicity 3880--I need to add the ties to the pant's hems. I'm already cut out the fabric for the Jalie tunic and I will start sewing tomorrow. After the tunic top, I think I'll make a pair of pants, either one of the Ottobre Women designs or one of the new Jalie designs.

Progress!

I've decided that Simplicity 3880 will be the product of slow sewing--no rushing on this project. On Sunday, I cut out the pattern and made a muslin to test for fit. I prewashed the fabric, cut out the fashion fabric and interfaced all the necessary pieces. Last night I made all of the pocket flaps (trimmed with white lace), and I attached the front pockets (front yoke, linings, pocket flap, button and buttonhole). I read the instructions for the sewing the fly zipper several times last night before I went to sleep. The illustrations aren't very clear, and it's confusing trying to figure out the relationship between the "big" dot and the bottom of the zipper. And the fly pieces in this pattern are separate pattern pieces from the pants front (they are sewn on). I just went through it step by step and I have to say that I think I have success! I put the darts in the back pieces before I decided to call it a night. Next up: the cargo and patch pockets for the legs and hips.

In order to inspire my progress, I've started pinning the completed fabric pieces to Dolly--it's great. I can see my pants slowly taking shape. Dolly is also wearing a blouse made from the same fabric I plan to use for a new top. It's great--I can see how the colors will work together. Right now, I'm wondering about the fabric weight for the cargo pants. I'm using a lightweight canvas (bright yellow!), and I'm concerned (at this late date) that they might be more than a bit transparent when worn in sunlight. Ah, well, I'll see what happens.

I'm still here

Well, my sewing mojo disappeared for a while. I think that it might be surfacing. I had the brown and white version of the Jalie 2793  on Dolly (my dressmaking mannequin) for close to 2 weeks without change. I wasn't inspired to finish it, even though all that is left are the hems. I just didn't like the colors for spring. So, to get it off my plate, I mentally cataloged it as a muslin, and I decided to make one from the turquoise and brown print. I made myself finish in in two rounds of sewing, so I could wear it to work, which I did. I'm not certain that this is the pattern for me, though. I am planning on making it in one more combination--a white floral cotton lycra jersey, with white bands. I hope that the effect will be very spring-like.

While Dolly wore the brown and white muslin, I did make a muslin of HotPatterns Deco Vibe Flippy Skirt I like it. I'll have to cut out a 'real version'. The pattern pieces are simple enough, but the end results is very nice. As several reviewers have noted, I have to be careful with matching edges. But my next project which is Simplicity 3880, which is a Threads magazine collection pattern that is now out of print. I'm making view B, the cargo pants. I actually made a muslin (no pictures) to check the fit, and instructions. I've cut out the pattern pieces, interfaced what needs to be interfaced, and I've already have sewn up the pocket flaps, trimmed with lace. I'm actually excited by this project, so I'm hoping I can finish them this week. I need some pants that fit nicely.

I spent a good chunk of time working on the pants yesterday and today. I wanted to spend more time today, but I had to fix (well, replace) my bike basket. Last summer, I bought a bike to ride to work (and exercise), and of course, if I'm riding to work, I need a basket to haul stuff. I asked the bike shop to install a front handle basket. Well, the brace, which holds the basket to the handlebars, broke sometime over the winter. And after I removed basket and the brace from my bike, I realized that all the brace's parts were plastic, and even I got replacement parts, the design is flawed. So off to REI to get a WALD basket. It took a while for me install it (including a trip to the hardware store to replace a stripped screw. Have you ever purchased something for 11 cents and received a receipt? One guy helped me determine the proper size metal screw (I brought the bad screw and the WALD brace with me), and told me it cost 11 cents. He was going to ring it up, but he started helping other customers in the nails/screws/bolts aisle. I went to the cashier, told him it was 11 cents. He accidentally rang the sale up for 2 screws (he saw my stripped screw). I was surprised that the price came up to 24 cents. The cashier fixed it, when I pointed out the error, but it wasn't' until I was in the car driving home did I realize how frugal (or cheap!) I must have appeared.

Other stuff I want to work on: I'm waiting for my Jalie patterns to arrive. I'm joining the jeans-sew-along on PatternReview.com. I have some denim in the stash that will be fun to work with. I also want to make a woven blouse. I want to wear something more businesslike to work other than knit blouses. I also purchased a book by Adele Margolis, "Making your own patterns." I think that it's great bedtime reading, along with pattern instructions--right now, my clothing needs a number of alterations for the clothing to look good, so I'm hoping that reading this book will be helpful.