Fun Stuff that arrived in today's mail

I received the October KnipMode in today's mail! It makes up for the fact that I didn't get any Netflix DVD's (I live close enough Netflix processing center that I usually get them within 24 hours, but for some reason, I have not received three out of my four DVDs. It's very annoying).

KnipMode is a Dutch sewing magazine with the patterns inserted (similar to Burda World of Fashion/BurdaFashion). It's mailed from the Netherlands, and it's packaged very well: a large paper postal envelope: the magazines that are inserted are shrink wrapped. I don't have to worry about this enveloped getting caught in the rain.

Lots of eyecandy in the October 2009 issue, which is accompanied by two different inserts: a specials pattern insert ("Bijlage") and another one that seems to focus on home organization and decoration ("Blos"). I will enjoy perusing through these issues.

I'm still sewing BWOF 09-2005-129 pants. I've made the second pair out of corduroy. I'm attaching a copy of the line drawing. The first version I made did not have the interesting seaming (they were just plain trousers); the second version I made has the pieced together front pieces with the interesting seams. The corduroy (non-stretch) sews up differently--I have to take more time fitting, because there is no lycra to pull it back into shape. I'm almost finished: I need to hem the legs as well as (hand)sewing on the hook and eye. I had problems sewing the buttonhole on the first version because of the thickness of the denim. I remembered that I had hooks and eyes, so I decided to use that as the waistband closure. I should be done tonight!

Line Drawing

Fashion photo from Burda World of Fashion.

Muslins! or Sewing vs. Fitting

I'm learning more about the value of muslins by experience. A muslin is a test garment: it's purpose is to fit the garment to the wearer--it's not meant to be worn as "real clothing." I don't like the idea of making muslins, because it's "extra work." Well, I have learned that if I don't make a muslin, the first version of the garment is a toile by default.

I have made two versions of Simplicity 3696, the drawstring pants. The first pair is by default, a muslin. I sewed them wonderfully, but the fit was off. Even though I pin-fit the pattern paper, the finished project was too loose and baggy--they resembled pajamas, and are not suitable for work and are destined to Goodwill. In the next version, made from the same fabric (a solid color seersucker with a crosswise stretch), I took in the outside seam from the waist to the knees (in the next version, I just might cut the pattern to the smaller size on the outside seam). The difference in the fit is amazing. The waist is about 2 inches smaller, so there is less fabric bunching up on the drawstring belt, and my waist is now visible. I'll try to take some pictures and add them sometime tomorrow, so you can see the difference. The second pair, dark navy blue, are suitable for work.

I'm also revisiting the Burda World of Fashion Pants 09-2005-129. I tried making this earlier this year (without a muslin), but the fit was off. Way off. I just bagged up everthing and set it aside. I pulled this UFO (Un Finished Object) out of a pile and took a closer look at them. After I tried them on I could see that I needed to lengthen the crotch (front and back--I had to do this on Simplicity 3880, and 3696 and the wrinkles seemed to indicate this alteration). So I altered the pattern, pin fit it and it seemed better. Well, as good as swedish tracing paper can look taped together (I trace BWOF patterns without the seam allowance). And then I couldn't find any suitable muslin fabric in my stash. I swear, sometimes it's like dying of thirst while floating on a raft in the middle of the ocean.

This past weekend there was an estate sale in my hometown. Since I'm cleared for driving, I decided to attend. The estate belonged to a tailor's family and there was lots of housewares and furniture. I, of course, headed directly to the sewing area. The buttons had been picked over, but I was able to get two bolts of fabric, one of which I can use for muslins. It's a really nice creamy white cotton sateen (with a very similar hand/feel to the Catherine Ogust fabrics I got from an online coop). It might be upholstery weight (it's non-stretch, 54 inches wide) and it's almost too nice for muslins.

But I bit the bullet, measured off 2 and a half yards and cut a muslin of the BWOF-09-2009-129 pants. I was able to sew them up (no topstitching except for the front pockets, rudimentary darts, no seam finishes, unhemmed and without a zipper in the fly. Hey! it's a muslin) in less than an hour. And they fit pretty darn well. I need to lengthen the hem by about an inch so I have more freedom for alterations. Even though the muslin isn't suitable for wearing outside the workroom it looks much better than the first version which is more finished (with topstitching, installed fly zipper, etc). I'll save the muslin so that I can use it to play around with adding/fitting the waistband. I'm coming to realize that it's not extra work to make a muslin.

Jalie 2787 and onto trousers!

I decided to take a break from pants and sew something easy.  Well, relatively easy for me: a knit top!  I selected Jalie 2787, women's criss-cross top, in the 3/4 sleeve version.  I traced out the pattern one evening, then sewed it a few nights later.  It went together very quickly--I cut it out and assembled all in one evening.  I like the fit, I like the drapes--there is enough drape in the bodice top that my it fits well, not too tight or too loose.  The pattern is designed that it can be used by nursing moms--uhh, not my situation, but that's not apparent to anyone but the wearer.   I selected a lovely black and white floral jersey with a bit of sparkle that was gifted to me at the last BABES meeting--thank you, Georgene!  I'll try to take pics this weekend.  I'm already planning on making it again. 

Tonight I traced out an old BWOF pattern from the plus section of September 2005, #129 . Here is the BWOF-September-129  technical drawing.   Earlier this year, I purchased some Knip XL issues.  I saw a very similar pattern for cargo pants, that features the curved insert on the front leg, as well as lots of pockets.   I really liked them and my original plan was to puzzle though the Dutch instructions as well as stretching my sewing skills.   Of course, I am at the beginning side of the learning curve for sewing trousers,  so I decided to hone my skills with an English language pattern.   When I came across this pattern, I decided that I'll start with this one.  I have this one traced, and I'll flat pattern measure it (thank you for the suggestion, Mary Beth!).   I think that the BWOF trousers are more fitted/less baggy, and I'll skip the extra pockets until I get a great fit.   

Well, we'll see what happens.  :)