Thank you, After the Dress! and Journey to Los Angeles

Last Thursday morning, I heard some great news! I had won the After the Dress 600th blog post give-away! I have a $60 gift certificate to Gorgeous Fabrics! Thank you, Gwen. I will post about my purchase and my projects. I've been reading Gwen's blog since 2009, I think. I always enjoy reading her Talk Back Thursday posts which allow an opportunity to learn how other sewists would handle a sewing challenge or situation.

I learned that I won this wonderful prize right before I left on a road trip to Los Angeles for some dance workshops. I left 2 hours later than I wanted to, but I made good time. I recommend listening to audio books. I borrowed an Elmore Leonard novel (Gold Coast) from the library and it really helped the miles fly by on highway five. Don't listen to Elmore Leonard with young children in the car (well, unless you want to warp their brains)--I'm sure that Leonard was a strong influence on Quentin Tarantino.

I had a great time in Los Angeles. I managed to make it to the Fabric District twice. On Friday, I went to the FIDM Scholarship store and purchased several lengths of fabric ($1 yard) while having a conversation with two students. I also managed to go to their museum and saw the exhibition of Motion Picture Costume Design (note--there is a free bathroom in the museum on the first floor behind the "Last Airbender" display).

I drove to the Fabric District (if there is no construction, it's a straight shot on 9th to District). I parked in the lot on S. Wall Street above Mike's Fabrics--Sherril on PR said it was the cheapest and she was right ($3.25 on weekdays and $5, I think, on weekends).

I bought some Hawaiian print fabric (3 pieces--shirt and dress lengths) from Islands Fabrics (which is next to Mike's Fabrics). I had to get some Hawaaiian print fabrics after seeing the Alfred Shaheen exhibit at the SJ quilt museum last fall (and after making a great blouse from some red Hawaiian print fabric from a BABES swap). I also went to the Michael Levine Loft ($2.50/a pound. Prices have increased from $2/a pound in December 2010). At the loft, I bought some great knits, including grey double knit that I later saw in the ML retail store at $9/yard. I also bought some tribaley-style print knits. I browsed at another store to get some sewing chalk/fabric markers, and a hip-curve (I should have waited until I got to LA Alex/Kashcools, because it was the hip-curve ruler was $3 cheaper) and then I headed back to the hotel for a workshop.

On Saturday, I lost some time, because of traffic detours in down town LA (I think that they schedule all the construction/heavy equipment stuff for weekends). I went to B. Black, which has nice woolens and menswear fabrics, but I didn't buy anything because I have enough in my stash, already. Since time was tight, I went to the Michael Levine main store (I managed to park in their tiny store lot which allows 1 hour of free parking with purchase, then $3 for every 10 minutes). I bought a skirt length of a vivid purple/black buffalo plaid (rayon blend?), pants length (I think) of brown rayon, and more knits (dress-length black double knit, blouse lengths of stripes and animal prints). I was also able to caress and pet the Liberty Tana lawns (they are behind a locked case). At $35 a yard, I did not buy any (I didn't have a project in mind). Unfortunately, Michael Levine doesn't swatch Liberty fabrics. After touching Liberty lawn, quilting cotton feels like sandpaper. Sigh. After purchasing what I needed/wanted, I headed back to the hotel in el Segundo to attend the dance workshops.

Right now, I think that I no longer have the urge to shop at the LA Fashion District because I feel that I've missed something. That said, if you have ever have the chance to go, do take a look around. Do try a bacon wrapped hot-dog with a cold soda (it's more refreshing than it sounds). If you are not looking for something specific, I think that the Michael Levine Loft is a good place to go for fabric (you will never know what you will find). One day when I go to LA, I'll even make it to Santee Alley where they actually sell clothing and other goods, but I think that I'm good for at least another year. I still putting this stuff away.

[pictures to be added later]

Self Stitched September!

I've been participating in Self Stitched September, but I have not been contributing pictures. We are 8 days into the month and I figure that this is worth a report. I've been wearing one of the several iterations of the Hotpatterns Marrakesh pants. It's still warm enough to wear the linen versions that I made earlier this summer, with one of the many knit tops (commonly the Hotpatterns Sunshine top).

I've also been working on the Jalie 2909 pattern. Right now I've decided to make a version out of denim for casual Fridays. Even though I have the Jalie Jeans pattern, I decided that I didn't want to take the time to trace out and fit the pattern, so I'm making it from Jalie 2909 (the very simple trousers pattern). I dug into my stash (literally, they were on the bottom shelf) and I pulled out some denim I purchased from an online coop. The denim is purported to be a factory overrun from 7 for all Mankind jeans. I prewashed it a while ago, and have had it tucked away until I had a great jeans pattern that fit me in a wonderful way. Well, I decided not to wait for a jeans pattern, but use a trousers pattern. I'm glad that I didn't wait.

I think that I have learned my lesson about cheap fabric---when I made my first pair of pants (about 2 years ago), I used cheap denim from a chain fabric store. Even though I've worn these jeans many times and I have laundered them roughly (no delicate wash for me!) , they are stiff and they have a waxy finish. When I folded away and stored the 7 for all Mankind denim (over a year ago), I didn't notice any difference from other denim but gracious, last night when I cut it out with my rotary cutter, it was like slicing butter. The quality of the fabric really comes through. I'm having a very easy time cutting, and sewing the fabric. It's got a lovely hand and I'm enjoying sewing this garment (when I sewed with the cheaper denim, I was almost fighting the fabric). I almost wish that I had purchased more of this lovely denim, but when I look at the volume of my stash, I'm glad that I didn't. But if I see premium denim for sale again, I will think twice! I should be able to finish the jeans tomorrow night during Project Runway--all I have to do is finish add the waistband and hem them.

There was some sad news earlier this week. Fred Bloebaum from La Fred passed away from pancreatic cancer. I'm glad that I have some of her patterns (her designs and from her personal collection). I know that I will enjoy sewing with them, and per her advice, I will always wear my favorite colors.

African Fabrics from Michael's Fabrics/A Fabric Place

My bundle arrived from Michael's Fabrics today. They are gorgeous! I have 5 pieces which should be fun to work with. All of my fabrics came from the swatches that Sherri kindly sent me a earlier this month. ( I received 2, 4, 8, 9, 10) I'm going to wash them later this afternoon, so that they will be ready to go. I'm not certain which patterns I'm going to use but they are yummy. I found some new source of inspiration photographs--Jewel by Lisa-- courtesy of Eyeadaba's review on PR.

Right now, I'm recovering from a weekend dance workshop. I haven't attended a dance workshop in over a year. A weekend dance workshop means 3 hour class on Friday, 4 hours on Saturday, 4 hours on Sunday, and a show on both nights. I did not dance in the show on Saturday, but I did perform Sunday night. My arms and legs are very tired. I'm glad that I took Monday off from work. I'm happy to say that I made almost everything I wore this weekend (except lingerie and footwear), including the costume (very simple folkloric style). More on that later--I need to forage for some food.

Catching up

I have been remiss in updating my blog. If you have been following my blog, thank you for your patience! It's been well over a month since I've made an entry. I've been busy though. Since my last post, I've:

• rehearsed and performed with a troupe at a dance festival (which also included creating and finishing my costume),
• helped a co-worker go fabric shopping with his visiting sisters,
• started working with a new manager at work (this a good thing),
• attended a work related conference,
• had a honeybee swarm invade my patio (if this happens to you, call a beekeeper and they can take care of it),
• had a U-pipe develop crack in my bathroom (thank goodness for two things: 1) I have a responsive landlady and 2) the damaged pipe drains water so I wasn't dealing with water pouring into my bathroom).

After I discovered the cracked U-pipe, I spent half the night re-arranging the sewing materials so that there would be room for the plumbers get around (my apartment looks like a ill-kempt fabric warehouse). But onward to sewing related things.

I've acquired more fabric under very sad circumstances. Last weekend, La Fred had a liquidation sale. Fred Bloembaum, the owner and creator was not there--she is very ill and her friends were running the sale. It was really two sales: one part were the sample clothes that Fred had made to demonstrate the patterns that she designs (it was advertised in Craigslist as Art to Wear). The other part of the sale was the dispersal of her sewing collection: her sewing books, patterns from her personal collection (e.g. Vogue, Butterick, etc), and her fabric and notions. I got to the sale in the late afternoon and by then the items were being discounted. I bought fabric (in great colors--coral and tangerine), sewing books, notions (needles, rotary blades, and petersham), patterns (mostly vogues and neue modes). It was very interesting to see her clothing merchandise and her sewing collection together in one room: it was a unique (if incomplete) view of the creative cycle. Fred is very artistic and creative in combining colors and textures--hopefully I can learn from her through her materials. In some ways, I'm very conservative when selecting/combining fabrics-- I was able to purchase some books that illustrate the different things: I'm enjoying reading "Modern Fashion in Detail" by Claire Wilcox and Valerie Mendes, which contains super close-up pictures of the clothing at the Victoria and Albert Museum. It's a great book to browse through. I'm still trying to find a place for my acquisitions.

I spent some time talking with Fred's friends. I did meet Fred at the Artistry in Fashion event, but I had not taken a workshop with her. Her friend and neighbor Mary told me that Fred is reading the messages sent to her at the CarePages (look for the group named FredFans) and she is touched and nicely overwhelmed by messages left by all people remember her from her workshops.

I have been sewing. I got tired of wearing the same clothing and I made 3 t-shirts from tried and true patterns: Simplicity 4076 and Burda 7970. I did use two fabrics from my LA trip, but they were not fabrics shown in previous post. One of the fabric was a remnant of a black and grey border print knit, the other is a orange/yellow/blue tie-dye mesh that a friend bought for me because I kept flirting bargaining with the store owner and his dad and she wanted to get out of there. I used a border knit print for the third shirt from my stash (purchased from Fabrix in SF). I also made some tea-cozies as gifts for my friends.

My next project is the Hot Patterns Marrakesh pants. I traced out the pattern over the weekend , read through a number of pattern reviews, and I actually cut out the fabric in muslin. I didn't compare the tracing to my previous pants draft, and I altered the tracing and made another muslin. Oh well, muslins are for learning--and I did figure out how the different pieces are assembled so it was a good time investment. I have altered my tracing for my curvy booty (lengthening the crotch after consulting Pants for Real People), pin fit the tracing paper. I feel comfortable that my next step is to cut out the pattern in real fashion fabric--one of the many pieces of inexpensive pieces of yardage that I have in my apartment. It this one works, then I'll use the good stuff.

Fabric P*rn Trophies!

I have not done any significant sewing in the past few days. I fixed a hook and eye, and snipped some loose threads from previous projects (while on the way to work, natch!). I thought I would share some of the fabrics I purchased at the Los Angeles Fashion District. These items came from Michael Levine's Loft. At the loft, fabric is sold by the pound ($2).

I tend to sew a lot of knits. I already have a sizable collection of florals and black and white knits, so I try to avoid purchasing purchasing more. In face of a bargain, however, I will change my mind. Most of these knits have two-way stretch (more crosswise stretch than length) and are about 54 or 60 inches wide in four yard lengths. I'm planning to make mostly dresses from the fabrics. No, I don't have any patterns in mind.

My first fabric on display is a black, pink, orange starburst geometric pattern with a border print. I love the colors of the prism as well as the challenge of sewing with the large scale squares.

I also discovered that many of the fabrics literally had my name on it.

Next up is a combination of my two of my favorite things: animal prints and the color purple! Purple swirls and dark grey leopard print.

It also had my name on it! The color looks a little more blue, but I had to turn off the flash, so that the label wouldn't get washed out.

Next up is a large scale turquoise and purple petal design. This also had my name on it, but I didn't get the label. It's not really clear from this pic, but the left side of the fabric has a black border.

Next up is a firework print, with a white base and a black, red, pink, & orange. The fabric, like the petal one above is also asymmetrical.

And it also had my name on it.

Up next is a combination of a floral and geometric--with a brown and turquoise base, plus different shades of blue and green.

And it did have my name on it. Again. :)

Last in this set is a black white and blue floral, in kind of a comic book type of print because of the pixels

And yes it did my my name on it. I didn't by EVERYTHING with the name "rose' on it, but most of the fabrics I got from the loft, did have my name on it. Weird coincidence, huh?

While trying to show these fabrics in a good light, I have developed a new respect for anyone who has a webshop and who photographs fabric. It's difficult lay out the fabric so that it looks good.

Yikes! Los Angeles Fashion District (part 1?)

I got home late last night from Long Beach and Los Angeles. This morning I slept late, and am enjoying a leisurely morning before going into work in the early afternoon. My original plans were to go shopping solo in the Los Angeles Fashion District, but luckily, a friend with a good eye for color was able to join me and help with finding parking and fabric enabling (well, I can't blame it all on her).

I think that I may have a bit of a fabric addiction. I did want to return from the trip with a trunk full of fabric and I succeeded beyond my wildest expectations (which is kinda scary). I can't tell you how much yardage because I went to Michael Levine's loft and bought fabric by the pound (let's just say that if I was flying, I would have had to pay extra for luggage). I highly recommend the Loft, as well as the regular store. After placing the purchases in my car, we met up with some more friends, had a late lunch and bought more fabric from other stores along 9th street. By the time we left at 4:30, my car trunk was full. I'll try share more detailed pictures later this week (I bought some great large scale border prints), but here is an immediate picture of the aftermath. It's mostly knits, with a split between fabric for work clothing and fabric for dance, fitness, and dressing up for dance events.

Kanga Khanga Kikoi

The Emmy Awards took place earlier this week and a Victoria Rowell (an actress on soap operas) wore a cotton dress depicting President Barack Obama. I've noticed some discussion on blogs and sewing websites as to whether this was an appropriate dress to wear on the Red Carpet. I think that it's a bit too casual--it's made from woven cotton. But I've never been on the Red Carpet, so I'm not an expert on what to wear.

However, I recognized the fabric immediately as an East African kanga (also spelled khanga, also called a kikoi). A kanga is a type of sarong, which can be worn wrapped in a myriad of ways. Here is a delightful video of three charming Tanzanian young ladies showing how to wear kangas.

Link to How to Wear a Kanga

Link to Arkansas State Presentation by Rose Ong'oa on Kangas (heavy on photos)

Right after the presidential election, several blogs that cover African American culture had images of Obama-themed Kangas. I searched around on eBay and on East African webstores. I almost bought one or two Obama bangas but I looked at my fabric stash and I decided to hold off. When would I ever wear them, especially since I already had one in my closet as a gift from a friend. I did some more searching for more webstores selling them and I located this a store that sells a number of commemorative kangas. Currently their stock includes Michael Jackson kanga.

Simply Tanzanian webstore Barack Obama Kangas (I'm having problems linking directly to the page--please use then menu on the Simply Tanzanian page to link to 'kangas.')

I think that these garments are kind of like commemorative t-shirts, at least ones with the pictures of politicians or celebrities. Many of the other kangas have really pretty patterns--I know, because I have one (I might have two--I can't find the other one, if I got two of them).

Twenty years ago, a friend of mine went to Kenya for geological/petroleum research and she brought back several kangas as gifts. I still have one--its lovely: a large geometric pattern in black and blue on white fabric. The cotton is loosely woven, not quite a gauze. I took a quick picture (so quick that I didn't iron it :) I was using it to wrap up other fabric in storage) I don't know what it the words mean on the bottom, but I think that the language might be Swahili. According to Google Translate, it means "rua not water thirsty yishi". Hmmm. Thank you, Bonnie! It's a lovely piece of fabric!

Muslins! or Sewing vs. Fitting

I'm learning more about the value of muslins by experience. A muslin is a test garment: it's purpose is to fit the garment to the wearer--it's not meant to be worn as "real clothing." I don't like the idea of making muslins, because it's "extra work." Well, I have learned that if I don't make a muslin, the first version of the garment is a toile by default.

I have made two versions of Simplicity 3696, the drawstring pants. The first pair is by default, a muslin. I sewed them wonderfully, but the fit was off. Even though I pin-fit the pattern paper, the finished project was too loose and baggy--they resembled pajamas, and are not suitable for work and are destined to Goodwill. In the next version, made from the same fabric (a solid color seersucker with a crosswise stretch), I took in the outside seam from the waist to the knees (in the next version, I just might cut the pattern to the smaller size on the outside seam). The difference in the fit is amazing. The waist is about 2 inches smaller, so there is less fabric bunching up on the drawstring belt, and my waist is now visible. I'll try to take some pictures and add them sometime tomorrow, so you can see the difference. The second pair, dark navy blue, are suitable for work.

I'm also revisiting the Burda World of Fashion Pants 09-2005-129. I tried making this earlier this year (without a muslin), but the fit was off. Way off. I just bagged up everthing and set it aside. I pulled this UFO (Un Finished Object) out of a pile and took a closer look at them. After I tried them on I could see that I needed to lengthen the crotch (front and back--I had to do this on Simplicity 3880, and 3696 and the wrinkles seemed to indicate this alteration). So I altered the pattern, pin fit it and it seemed better. Well, as good as swedish tracing paper can look taped together (I trace BWOF patterns without the seam allowance). And then I couldn't find any suitable muslin fabric in my stash. I swear, sometimes it's like dying of thirst while floating on a raft in the middle of the ocean.

This past weekend there was an estate sale in my hometown. Since I'm cleared for driving, I decided to attend. The estate belonged to a tailor's family and there was lots of housewares and furniture. I, of course, headed directly to the sewing area. The buttons had been picked over, but I was able to get two bolts of fabric, one of which I can use for muslins. It's a really nice creamy white cotton sateen (with a very similar hand/feel to the Catherine Ogust fabrics I got from an online coop). It might be upholstery weight (it's non-stretch, 54 inches wide) and it's almost too nice for muslins.

But I bit the bullet, measured off 2 and a half yards and cut a muslin of the BWOF-09-2009-129 pants. I was able to sew them up (no topstitching except for the front pockets, rudimentary darts, no seam finishes, unhemmed and without a zipper in the fly. Hey! it's a muslin) in less than an hour. And they fit pretty darn well. I need to lengthen the hem by about an inch so I have more freedom for alterations. Even though the muslin isn't suitable for wearing outside the workroom it looks much better than the first version which is more finished (with topstitching, installed fly zipper, etc). I'll save the muslin so that I can use it to play around with adding/fitting the waistband. I'm coming to realize that it's not extra work to make a muslin.