Random Sunday thoughts

Hi Kyle--I study Egyptian-style belly dance. I like it--it's a lot of fun and a great excuse to dress up in fun costumes and wear tons of cosmetics (if you do not look like a drag queen, go back to the mirror)

Does anyone else think that the TLC television channel is taunting viewers by showing back-to-back marathon episodes of Extreme Couponing and Hoarders? I respect the need to save money--and yes, I'm frugal--but I'm very disturbed by the couponers' stockpiles of groceries. I say this while staring at my sewing stash of fabric, patterns,and notions and wonder if the pot is calling the kettle black... I'm very glad that the Extreme Couponers are organized! LOL!

My frugal tip : my mobile phone (AT&T) was physically falling apart (phones don't bounce when dropped) . I was able to buy a Go-Phone (AT&T) from Best Buy, put my sim card into the phone and voila! I have a new phone. The best part--the phone was only $10. Hallelujah!

Sewing! I did manage to trace out a new-to-me Kwik-sew t-shirt pattern: KW 2594. It's from 1997. It features side panels and sleeve panels, which should allow for more fitting opportunities. I'll continue to work on this pattern this afternoon and figure out how well it fits...

Thank goodness for UFO's and TNT's

I'm leaving on Sunday, travelling to warmer place and I've sewing at least 1 garment a day. I can only do this because I'm sewing TNT patterns (TNT = Tried and True). Sewing TNTs means that I don't have to make a muslin of a new pattern. I don't like the actual physical process of making a muslin (practice garment), but I appreciate why I should make one. If I don't make a muslin, the first version of the garment that I sew turns out to be a muslin.

I've sewn two bamboo knit jersey (purchased from a coop) Burda t-shirt: one brown, one white, both with three-quarter sleeves. These should work for simple casual everyday clothing. I have used at least 3 yards from my stash. I'm sooo happy!

One of the events I'm attending recommends that I pack a garment suitable for a cocktail party (well, that's how I'm reading the event description). I rarely wear cocktail dresses, I don't go to church, so I don't have a lot of dressy clothing. I live in the capital of business casual, so I'm went through my closet and tried to find some separates that might work. I found a somewhat boho skirt: it's a wraparound skirt made from a shiny pink wine colored skirt with what appears to be a sheer black sari overlay. I was going through my fabric stash to locate a suitable black fabric for a dressy-tshirt top, when I found a UFO (un finished object): a Vogue dress, 8386 (now out of print). About 2 years ago, I started to make this for an event that in the midst of sewing, I decided not to attend. I made view B, in a thin sparkly black knit (fiber content unknown) purchased from Simon at Happy Stop ($2 a yard!) in Oakland. I think that it's go the right amount of glamour.

When I stopped, I had assembled the bodice (the bodice was the most technically challenging part of the dress) and the dress's skirt and I had partially assembled the two pieces. I did have the foresight to put all the fabric pieces, with the pattern (and instructions) in a big (three gallon?) bag. I was looking for the extra fabric, when I pulled out the dress, it looked great despite being in a plastic bag and moved around on the floor for the past 24 months. Perfect for traveling! LOL! I finished assembling it, tried it on and hemmed it. It should work out very well. I'll have to make certain to bring a shawl or scarf to wear with it, so that I can cover my arms if I feel uncomfortable.

This is all coming together--I'm so happy.

Two shirts!

It took me a little longer than I expected, but I finished the two shirts today. Buttons and buttonholes take longer than sewing seams. I should have time to wear, launder, and check for loose threads and buttons before I travel (and press--I just noticed the wrinkles in the sleeve of the red cherry print. Yikes!). The gold and white shirt is an African print from a special bundle from Michael's (purchased earlier this year). I love the creamy white square buttons that I found at Joan's. Sorry about the iPod pic--my computer is still being repaired.

Sewing Mise en Place

My laptop broke again but it's under warranty, so it's at the shop and I'm using my iPod touch. Sorry about the pic quality but it does make it easier and quicker to blog.

I was able to sew the front to the back (shoulder and side seams), and attach the button bindings. I'm a little bummed that I'm not as far along, but I'm sewing TWO blouses, so I should expect the process to seem slower. Tonight I should be able to sew the collars and sleeves. The pic shows one of the African wax prints from Michael's. I think that shiny white buttons will suit it nicely.

Simplicity 3684

I made one version from a lightweight pink ikat print from Happy Stop. It was such a success that I started two more versions. Since the fabric is primarily white, I don't need to change the thread. Last night I made the collars, cuffs, and button facings. Tonight should be able to assemble the shirts. The pic shows what I was able to sew last night. More later!

Sewing in the Transitional Month of October

I've been busy with several projects at work so, sewing has been taking a back seat. I've been sewing just a little bit, mostly small stuff.

1. Kwik Sew 2694, a knit top. I made view B, which is an empire cross over top from a leopard print knit. I have made this before It was quick and easy--a very nice way to get back into sewing.

2. Kwik Sew 3283, a neck pillow for traveling (one of those u-shaped pillows). I dug this pattern from my stash. I found a great bold cotton print that I acquired somewhere. It's a straightforward pattern, relatively easy to sew. I did not use fiberfil to stuff the pillow. I went to a store that sells foam (upholstery foam, Styrofoam, anything you can imagine). They sell bags of shredded foam, and I used that to tightly pack the pillow. The only problem I experienced was that the shredded foam gets everywhere! I had to bring out my hand vacum several times.

3. I spent this evening tracing Burda 8269, which is the plus size version of Burda 8407. Burda 8269 goes to sizes 44 - 54 (18 - 28). It looks like both patterns are out of print. This evening, I traced of the pattern on the Swedish tracing paper. Every piece needs to be traced out and the cutting layout suggests a single layer of fabric. And to make certain that I know what I'm doing when I actually sew the skirt, I have taped the pieces together. I have not checked to see if the front and back pieces are uniquely shaped. I may check that tomorrow before I cut the fabric.

I'm making View B (the same fabric throughout the skirt) I found a nice drapey royal blue rayon (I think it's rayon--I got it at either a fabric swap or an estate sale). The skirt pattern and fabric reminds me of a CP Shades skirt I purchased several years ago. It's a great comfy skirt that doesn't show wrinkles. It should come close. I'm also planning on making another version from another fabric, yet to be decided.

Where did June go? Oh, well! On to July...

I hope that you have been as busy as I have. I've been distracted by work, working out, the World Cup, HBO (I subscribed so I can watch True Blood, but I didn't realize there were so many other shows available via On-Demand), and my home internet access breaking down. The internet access broke first, which led me around in circles for a while, trying to figure out what sort of internet/phone/tv/cell phone combination will work best for me. I didn't make any major changes, but thank goodness that I live in an apartment complex with neighbors who are generous with their wireless access. My new modem should arrive later this week, and I can stop imposing on my neighbors.

After the flurry of sewing in May, I slowed down in June. It's July and so I'm starting up again. I've worked on two blouses: I've perfected the Simplicity 2614 bias blouse pattern. Even though it has different pattern pieces for different bust sizes, I still had to do an FBA. I also lengthened it (I like to wear my shirts on the longer side). I also found out that this pattern works better in a drapey rayon weave, rather than a woven cotton (even if the cotton has crosswise stretch). This pattern goes together so quickly, that I should consider this part of my TNT patterns, even though I have made it only three times. I plan on making another version before the week is over.

I also tried putting together a muslin of HotPatterns Miss Moneypenny Pussycat blouse (HotPatterns 1047). I had traced out the pattern a month or so ago, but I actually cut it out in muslin to check the fit, as well as the instructions. I'm glad that I made a muslin, as I couldn't figure out how to add the tie-collar part (this pattern also has neck and buttonhole facings). NOTE: I have the older version of this pattern--HotPatterns original instruction style can be cryptic--I don't know if the instructions in newer version are different/clearer. Luckily, I still had Simplicity 2614 on my sewing table. One of the views features a tie-collar--I quickly cut some fabric for the view (of Simplicity 2614) with the necktie. The blouse went together very quickly and very nicely. I should be able to transfer the tie-collar instructions from the Simplicity pattern to the HotPatterns blouse. If I have time this weekend, I'll finish the muslin, and check for alterations.

I'm so happy that I'm experiencing success and progress with these two blouses. My default look at work is a knit t-shirt or blouse. They are better than what is available in ready-to-wear, but I've been feeling that they are too informal. I'm glad that I'm adding woven blouses to my self-sewn wardrobe. It's great--I can go through my stash and identify fabrics that are suitable for these blouses. One issue is that many of my stashed fabrics are informal. Ahh! well, it will be fun to see how I can use them all.

May Recap

What did I sew during the Merry Month of May?

Six pairs of Marrakesh pants.

1. one in heavy rayon suiting (from Fabrics R Us in San Jose via the stash).
2. one in a slate grey flannel (from the stash from somewhere). I honestly cannot remember how I acquired this fabric. My stash may be reproducing on it's own--it would explain all the lint I find in my apartment.
3. one in a green textured linen (from Elliot Berman, owned less than 2 weeks before cutting!). These are fun, because I used a quilting cotton in a US dollar print for the pockets and waistband lining--I'll always have money in my pockets!
4. one in wild burgundy and cream plaid, with a lime green line (from a Hancock Fabrics store closure, from the stash, and it's at least a year old). And yes, I matched the plaids on all the seams, including the center back seam which matches horizontally, but not vertically (because the plaid is uneven). I love these pants---they remind me of a pair of Perry Ellis plaid pants that I wore when I was in high school. I still have those pants--I'm never going to fit in them again, but just looking at them in my closet makes me smile.
5. one in a reddish-pink cottony/lineny blend. This pair of pants frays whenever I launder it-these pants are not going to last through the summer because the I didn't take the time to finish all the seams. The allowances are topstitched down, but the unfinished edges are going to erode away like a cliffside hit by ocean waves at high tide (from Fabrics R Us, owned less than 1 week before cutting).
6. one embroidered khaki linen/cotton blend (from Happy Stop, owned less than 1 week before cutting). A fun neutral color, but the embroidery makes it a little more special than the plain khaki pants that are all over Silicon Valley.

After sewing six pairs of these pants, I can sew this pattern from memory, including the fly zipper. Sewing the Marrakesh pattern from memory doesn't mean that I didn't make mistakes, but I was able to catch them and fix them before they went too far. Regarding zippers: I watched the Threads/Sandra Betzina video a few times while I was sewing the first two pairs, but last night when I pulled out my pattern for the BWOF 402 pants (I need to have more trousers in my wardrobe rotation), I didn't hesitate to put in the zipper for muslin. I must have been upset when I last tried sewing the 402 pants, as I found the pattern all crumpled up. Luckily, Swedish tracing paper irons very well.

More sewing--Four Sunshine tops:

1. one in purple & white stretch (rayon & lycra?) fabric from Michael Levine Loft (purchased in February 2010.
2. one in a brown tribal cotton lycra (from an online coop, via the stash, at least 1 year old). This may be too informal for work, but it's great to wear on weekends
3. A combination of a black rayon/lycra and a remnant of black/red/white/beige stretch lycra (from Happy Stop, at least 3 years old). Definitely suitable for work.
4. A black and white small/geometric stretch lycra, from a BABES exchange, I think (age unknown). I debated using a solid color for the collar and I elected not to. I think that was not the best decision. The result is a very busy looking shirt. I'll wear it a couple of times before I decide if it's a pass/fail.

I can understand why this pattern is so popular--it's a great/fashionable shirt that got a little more going on than a simple t-shirt--its very flattering. But it's easy to sew.

And I made two other tops:

1 Simplicity 4076 (the simple t-shirt) made from a red and white chain-link patten (from Gorgeous Fabrics from about 4 years ago, via the stash). Definitely suitable for work. I like it because it's bright.

1 Burda 7970 T-shirt, made from a Gustav Klimt cotton lycra from Fabrix (owned less than 2 weeks before cutting). Very suitable--I wore it today. It might be better for Fall/Autumn, but I really like the rich colors.

1 Simplicity 2614. This is a pullover top (made from a woven) and it's custom fit pattern (A-D cups). Another plus is that it doesn't require buttonholes. Laura--thank you bringing this pattern to my attention. I made two muslins, the second one in a clearly defined striped shirting, which didn't seem to work. The back and lower front is cut on the bias (which is why you can pull it on over your head) and the stripes just look awkward. I think that a small scale pattern (floral or checks) will work better. I did pull some fabrics out of the stash for this project, but I got busy with other patterns.

I also have one garment which hasn't quite reached UFO status--one pair of McCall's shorts--I need to re-cut the waistband, and attach that. It's been sitting at my cutting table for 2 weeks.

I also went through part of my fabric and notion stash (I'd get overwhelmed if I went through ALL of it). I pulled out and re-folded some of my knits and stretch fabrics, selecting some for the different t-shirts tops that I planned on sewing (but I didn't get around to sewing ALL of them LOL!). I also went through my stash of interfacing, and I think that I'm set for the next few years, unless someone figures out a way to make garments completely out of interfacing. *smile*

There was a meme travelling around the blogosphere --Me-Made-May*. I followed along, trying to wear clothing that I had made (of course, I didn't take any pictures). I had problems on Fridays--we have casual Fridays at work, and while I have made some jeans, I just don't like the way they fit. So one of my upcoming projects is to make another pair of jeans (or pants from denim), so I have something to wear on Fridays.

*There will be a follow up in the Fall, Self-Stitched September, so maybe I'll try to participate in that.

Memorial Day 2010 - sewing and stash

It's a three day weekend in the United States. Monday is Memorial day, commemorating the men and women who have died in military service. For those who have died, we salute you.

* * *

I've been sewing: I've made 2 Hotpatterns Sunshine tops and 1 pair of Hotpatterns Marrakesh pants. I'm really happy about the Marrakesh I'm getting ready to make another top. It's late, so tonight I'm going to make a knit top, using a TNT. It's too late to start a woven top, using a new pattern.

Yesterday, I also refolded a large part of my fabric stash. it's great--I know what I have it now. I really have a LOT of fabric. It makes me wish that I had a two bedroom apartment, so that I could devote 1 room to sewing and stash storage. I was very bad last weekend. I fell off the wagon and I'm rolling around in yardage.

Last Saturday, I went to Happy Stop in Oakland and I purchased 2 bags of fabric. I hadn't been there for about a year. Simon missed me! I bought some beige embroidered cotton, 2 1/2 yards that I managed to squeeze a pair of the Marrakesh pants (note: I really need at least 2 5/8 of a yard.) I also purchased some ikat style prints wovens (one pink and one turquoise), as well as some quiet rayon plaids, suitable for pants and skirts, or sheath dresses. I have a habit of picking remnants, even at fabric discounters. I'm really glad that I picked up the habit of pre-washing. After my purchasing spree, I went home, sewed the fabric pieces together and drove to my local laundry-mat. I loading 2 front loading washing machines, put in the laundry detergent and synthrapol, loaded my quarters, and I watched the water turn brown in one of the machines. The dye on three of the remnants ran--lucking none of the dye stuck to the other fabrics, but I have some yardage that is looks like a Deadhead caught in the rain. I'm really glad that I pre-wash with synthrapol. The washed out fabrics are probably going to Goodwill. I'm not upset about the remnants that ran--Simon bundled together all the pieces I selected that were less than 2 yards and had given me a special price. If I had paid full retail/britex prices, I would be upset. As it is, I resigned to the fact that I thought that some of the fabrics had a weird finish or hand to them when I folded them in the store. C'est la vie!

A week ago Friday, I went to an estate sale during lunch time--it was less than a mile from work and the craigslist ad mentioned fabric, so I decided to go. It turned out to be the estate of the owners of a Japanese gift shop. I managed to score several Japanese fabric, several yukata/kimono lengths of cotton (they were cotton--I could read the kanji), marked down from $168 to $10 each. The fabric is about 12 inches wide, and was rolled up and wrapped in paper. I think that the previous owners had cats, because I kept sneezing when I picked them up. They were part of the laundromat trip last Saturday--I did fold and sew/baste the fabric lengths before laundering, and then I spent a good few hours ironing them dry and re-rolling them before storing them.

I know that I'm jumping around in my timeline, but after I went to Happy Stop in Oakland, I decided to go to Fabrix in San Francisco. It was a glorious day--the sun was out, it was warm and it was a great day to cross the Bay Bridge. I bought some more fabric, most notably some knit yardage: a grey, black, and white abstract suitable for work clothing, and another printed knit that is reminiscent of Gustav Klimt. And more fabrics, mostly rayon wovens that are suitable for pants.

I hope that everyone enjoys a happy and safe holiday.

HotPatterns 1071 Weekender Sunshine Top

My current project is working with the HotPatterns 1071 Weekender Sunshine top. This top has been reviewed over 25 times on PatternReview--it's considered a winner. I purchased this pattern last summer, but I didn't have time to make it before the weather turned cold. Now the weather is warm and I have a plethora of knits and jerseys, so it's time to sew. I need more summer tops, as the ones that I have made over the past few years have been worn out. We are business casual at work and I want to make certain that I'm not veering to the sloppy side of casual.

The Sunshine Top is a t-shirt variation--there are 5 pattern pieces: front, back, front collar, back collar, and sleeves (there is an optional hem band). It's got a round interfaced collar. Last week I traced the pattern pieces, cut them out and started sewing a wearable muslin (e.g. I used a knit that wouldn't break my heart if I had to throw it away). This is an older pattern and the instructions are not illustrated. The instructions start with assembling the collar pieces, then assembling the bodice then combining the two. It's pretty straightforward, if you can remember to sew right sides together. For some reason I didn't understand them. Frustrated, I decided to search around for someone else's review and I came across Pam Erny's Off the Cuff tutorial on this top. Wow! The instructions were soo much clearer after reading through that tutorial. Thank you, Pam!

I like how the first top turned out--the interfaced collar keeps the top from being too informal. Trudy has videos showing how the pattern variations--part one and part two. I made my first Sunshine top from a cotton interlock (with no appreciable lycra). I made some minor alterations to the pattern so it ill fit me better (a small FBA and adding more fabric to the front piece, to improve the drape). I made another one, this time using fabric that I purchased in at the Michael Levine Loft in Los Angeles. This fabric is a large scale abstract floral knit in shades of purple, lavender, and white. I was very surprised to discover that I don't have any dark purple thread! I did find a spool of lavender thread, which actually is a better match for this fabric, so off I went. I also have some solid color jerseys/knits--I think that the Sunshine top and this pattern will work well together. I think that the solid colors will also be more appropriate for a work environment.

It looks like the Merry Month of May might be HotPatterns month, too. I spent all day today sewing a new pair of Marrakesh pants in a light linen weave--these didn't turnout as well as my last pair--the back has some wrinkles that weren't visible in the other linen pair. Earlier this evening, I traced out the Miss MoneyPenny PussyCat Blouse. I purchased this pattern several years ago--my version has the Glamour Girl sizing. In the blogosphere, there have been several discussions about blouses with scarves or ties. Tomorrow night I'll try making it up in muslin to check the fit. If it works out, I'll make it in a real fabric. I have a collection of woven blouse-weight fabrics that I need to explore and sew down.

Note---regarding the February fabric haul: I'm looking through my pattern stash to find a great fit for the other fabrics I purchased in February. I haven't forgotten about them!

HotPatterns Marrakesh Pants part 2

I've finished two wearable pairs of HotPatterns Marrakesh Pants. I made the second pair from the mystery slate gray flannel. For this pair, I decided not to alter the pattern and trim outside seam at the hip line (and the pockets). I think that they turned out very well--I still have to sew on the hook and eye at the waistband. I'm glad that I removed a quarter inch from the front legs--the pants are still drapey, but they are not billowy. There is still some extra fabric gathered at the waist, but it's not excessive (altering the outside seam would fix that). After writing this post, I've viewed Trudy's Marrakesh Pants video and it looks like there is no extra fabric gathering at the waist. I may need to look at my draft again...

I've lowered the waistline on the pattern for the third pair, which will be made from linen. I consider this linen as the really good stuff from the stash, especially since it usually retails for $12 a yard (I got it on sale for $6 a yard earlier this month. This yardage hasn't aged at all in my stash LOL!). I shouldn't get too worried when cutting this out--I'm familiar with the Marrakesh pattern, since I've sewn it several times. I made the first two pairs from woven fabrics with crosswise stretch. The linen doesn't have any crosswise stretch, but I'll double check the fit of the pattern before cutting, as well as comparing pattern to the second pair of pants.

Fabric prep--I washed the linen the other night, and I've pressed it (with steam) to remove the wrinkles (suggested by Sandra Betzina's Fabric Savvy). I'm glad that I pre-washed the fabric-- the lint catcher in the dryer was filled when I dried this load of fabric yardage. It could have been the linen or it could have been another piece, but I'm glad that I'm not going to encounter that dust when sewing. Right now, I'm letting the fabric rest on the cutting table for two reasons: I don't like to cut fabric late at night (or early in the morning). The second reason is there has been some discussion on sewing blogs/boards that fabric gets stretched when it's tightly wound on bolts, so it should be allowed to relax and contract before it's cut into garments. Even if the fabric relaxed after I laundered it, I may have stretched it when I pressed it. So the fabric is resting, spread over and gently folded on my cutting table, with all the notions assembled and ready to go. I guess that sewist and the fabric should be relaxed before cutting.

I know--I don't have any pictures of my work. I'll try to get some up after the third pair. I'm in awe of those bloggers post with pictures every time!

Weekend Project

I'm sewing again! Unfortunately, it's not the princess seamed jacket, nor am I working with any of the luscious knits that I showed in my last post. I'm working on a costume. Last night, I spent time clearing off my cutting table, cutting out the pattern, and de-linting my sewing machine. I'm performing with some friends at a festival in two weeks, and I realized that I had better work on my costume and make certain every costume piece fits instead of just talking about it. I have all the piece: fabric, interfacing, thread needles. I just need to get going and put it all together. The Olympics interrupt my sewing time, and I realize that I get more done when I have music playing (or the radio). The TV is too much of a distraction.

My character is a North African/Mediterranean housewife, so she needs a loose fitting robe (which will be worn over another part of the costume). I bought a very lightweight striped polyester woven last week from Michael Levine from their sales area ($1 a yard). I think that it might have originally been meant for curtains. I'm using Simplicity 4048, which features a squared yoke and gathered skirt pieces. I cut out the fabric pieces this afternoon after my dance class and I started assembling it. It's going together very quickly which is very nice. I hope to have it finished by rehearsal tomorrow afternoon. I'll try to post some pictures before the weekend is over.

My New Project

My first new project for 2010 is from the January 2010 Burda Style magazine. It's the pattern 105, which happens to be the sewing lesson for this issue. It will be fun to work with all those instructions.

I need a nice sweatsuit type jacket to wear to and from the gym, dance class, etc. When I saw this pattern, it I thought this would be a nice option. I pulled from the stash, some black stretchy fleece which reminds me of the Polartec Power stretch fleece from Malden mills (but at the price I purchased it, I know it's not from Massachusetts). I have to scale up the sizes--this pattern ends tops out at size 44, but I figure that all the princess seams (there are princess seams in the back, too) allow a lot of fitting opportunities. Also the pattern doesn't call for a stretch fabric.

It's difficult to tell from the technical drawing, but this pattern features decorative zippers, so I get to use the riri zippers that I have in my stash. This will either be fun or a big headache, but I do want something nice and different to wear.

I'm glad that I got the cutting table at the post-Christmas sale at J's--It's so much easier to trace patterns standing up, and not on my hands and knees. The cutting table is higher than a standard table, so I don't have to bend over as much. I traced the pattern and tissue fit the swedish tracing paper. As expected, I have to make some size adjustments. I'm not certain how well this jacket will actually fit. I want the jacket to curve in where I curve and curve out where I curve out. Right now, I can't tell what's going on. I should cut out the muslin tonight so I can baste and sew tomorrow night. I'm going to muslin this, as there I'm making a number of fitting alterations and if this works out, I plan on using another piece of stash fabric for another jacket.

Marlene Dietrich Pants Burda Plus 02-2007-402

I finished another pair of pants! Burda Plus 02-2007-402 is a wide legged pair of pants with a contour waistband (Burda calls this "Marlene Dietrich style").

I'm getting pretty fast at technically sewing pants, but fitting the pants is taking as long as the actual sewing. So this pair took me about 2 days of actual sewing (probably 7-8 hours total), which includes tracing the pattern, making a muslin, a trip to the store to get matching thread for the fashion fabric, a two day rest period. I made the version without the cuffs and the creases, so I know that saved me some time. I spent this morning finishing the waistband, adjusting the fit in the back and hemming. Based on the muslin, I lengthened the front and back crotch seams (by extending the pattern pieces). When I was fitting the pants, it seems like I removed all the fabric that I added. I guess that the inseam stretched. I think that I'll have to play around with the fit on the back a bit (right now, they fit as well as any ready-to-wear LOL!), but I think that this pants pattern can be moved into my pattern repertoire. If I can get a decent picture of the back with me in it, I'll post. There are some wrinkles that could be removed, but I can't figure out what alteration to make.

I am planning on making this pattern again--this pair was made from some brushed cotton twill ("brushed cotton" = "extra lint" in the sewing machine) from my stash. It spent a relatively short time in my stash--I purchased it from an online coop in the Spring. It's a nice olive green and more of a heavyweight twill than a medium. It's definitely a casual fabric. I have some other striped (pinstripes) that will change the look a bit.

The picture above is a true depiction of the color. I'm going to have to get a real tripod and figure out a standard pose for these project photos. If I wear these with a tucked in blouse (not my usual style), I will definitely add a belt.

Here is a hanger picture of the front:

Picture of the rear (hanger)

PatternReview located here.

McCall's 5857 - Shorts - Review

Pattern Description: "Easy" McCall's shorts in three lengths, with slanted side seam pockets and belt carriers

Pattern Sizing: The pattern comes in sizes 4 - 20. I used the size on the upper end of the scale.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I made view C, the longer shorts without the cuffs. Front View

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were. I didn't look at the zipper instructions and used Sandra Betzina's from the Threads website. I feel very comfortable with zipper flys now. I add the darts before I attach the waistband---this allows me to check the fit and make a decision on any alterations (e.g. taking in by changing the seam line, etc.) or taking in a dart) zipper fly detail

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? We were expecting a heatwave this week, so I decided to make some shorts to wear instead of yoga pants. If you know how to fit pants to yourself, then these are easy shorts to make. The heatwave didn't materialize, but the shorts are a great transitional garment.

Fabric Used: I made two pairs (and one muslin): one out of a brown pinstripe mystery fabric from Fabrix in SF, and the other from a blue & orange (cotton/linen & silk? or something else) mystery blend from Ressy's coop. The pictures show the blue pair of shorts. I've worn them today and I'm convinced that they have linen, because they wrinkle like linen (but they are cool). I was able to find a button out of my copious button stash.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

1) I extended the front and back crotch lines (more in the back)

2) Added about a 3/8 of a inch along the hipline on the back piece (adding width) at the waist, and added along the back center seam.

3) Widened the fly extensions by 1/2 an inch so my topstitching would definitely catch the extensions.

4) I used a special stitch on the side seams instead of a triple stitch for topstitching. pocket detail showing topstitching

5) Before adding the waistband (after most of the pieces are assembled), I tried on the garment to figure out where the darts should go.

6) I put a center back seam in the waistband (which I had to make longer).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! I would sew this again, but probably not until next spring. It's definitely a keeper. I can make these in about 6 hours, with a break before I attach the waistband.

Conclusion: I'm glad that I pulled this out of my stash to work on! These shorts will help me for the rest of the week.

McCall's 5857 - Shorts! and Future Projects

I decided to take a break from the BWOF 9-2005-129 pants because of a heat wave we are currently experiencing in the San Francisco Bay area. One item that is lacking from my wardrobe are shorts. I stopped wearing them several years ago for no particular reason. Temperatures are supposed to reach the upper nineties in the next few days (and I live on the Peninsula, so it's going to be hotter than living in SF). After spending close to three weeks away from work, I have grown tired of wearing yoga pants all the time. Note: the pants made from KwikSew 3115 or 2723 -- the shorts lengthened to capri pants. With this heatwave, shorts are a good idea.

I pulled this pattern out of my stash and I decided to make view C (the longer shorts without the cuffs). For my first pair, I tissue-fitted (re: Pants for Real People) and compared the front and back crotch lines to the Burda pants. I added inches along the front and back crotch line, grading up along the inseam. I need to find out if there is some formula about adding inches to the crotchline: if you add 1-2 inches along the crotchline, how far down do you go along the inseam? 5 inches? 6 inches? I've just been eyeballing it and guessing, but if there is a rule of thumb, I'd appreciate hearing it. I'll take another look at Real Pants for Real People to find out if I missed this detail.

I have made two pairs of shorts: one from a navy blue plaid seersucker (when I wear these, I feel like I'm stolen my dad's boxer shorts) and a brown pinstriped mystery fabric. Both are from Fabrix in SF, the plaid bought years ago. Each pair of shorts took a yard and 1/8 of 60 inch width fabric. I'm getting better at fitting--the fabric hangs very well and nothing seems to be pulling. I do need to work on fitting waistbands --I'm allowing too much length and I'm getting gaps in the back. I can wear a belt with this pattern, so practically speaking this problem is taken care of, but it's one more item that I'd like to add to my skill list.

The pattern does go together very nicely! After tracing my Burda patterns, it's very nice to be able to cut pattern tissue and not add seam allowances. I usually add seam allowances when I'm cutting out my fabric. I use shears and my cutting table is a foldable cardboard surface that I lay out on my carpet. I'll be honest, the seam allowances are probably not even. But when I use a pattern that I purchased on sale from J's, I don't have to worry about tracing or seam allowances, so it's one less thing to set this awry. In any case, the hip pockets and front hip yokes line up very well. Wow. All together it's taken be about a day to sew each pair of shorts, If I pushed it, I probably could finish one pair in day. Thanks to my experiences with different pants patterns I feel very comfortable sewing yoke pockets and doing a fly zipper. I'm so glad I have a large stash of everything.

Future projects: I want to work on is Vogue 8555, a dress (view A, with the sleeves and pegged skirt). I have several pieces of cotton sateen that would be suitable for this dress. If I choose the right fabrics and colors, I should be able to wear this into late autumn. Because of the construction, I definitely need to make a muslin.

Line Drawings below:

I also want to make BWOF 05-2009-110. I've seen several really nice versions of this top: Michelle at Cheap and Picky (see the posts from September 2009) has been working with this pattern and I have gotten some good ideas. Thank you, Michelle!

Question: if you do not have a photographer on site, how are you taking pictures of your finished garments: I can do a hanger photograph, I can put blouses and dresses on my mannequin, but pants seem to need a fashion shot. I've figured out how to use the self-timer on my camera, but the pictures seem very blah... any suggestions?

Fun Stuff that arrived in today's mail

I received the October KnipMode in today's mail! It makes up for the fact that I didn't get any Netflix DVD's (I live close enough Netflix processing center that I usually get them within 24 hours, but for some reason, I have not received three out of my four DVDs. It's very annoying).

KnipMode is a Dutch sewing magazine with the patterns inserted (similar to Burda World of Fashion/BurdaFashion). It's mailed from the Netherlands, and it's packaged very well: a large paper postal envelope: the magazines that are inserted are shrink wrapped. I don't have to worry about this enveloped getting caught in the rain.

Lots of eyecandy in the October 2009 issue, which is accompanied by two different inserts: a specials pattern insert ("Bijlage") and another one that seems to focus on home organization and decoration ("Blos"). I will enjoy perusing through these issues.

I'm still sewing BWOF 09-2005-129 pants. I've made the second pair out of corduroy. I'm attaching a copy of the line drawing. The first version I made did not have the interesting seaming (they were just plain trousers); the second version I made has the pieced together front pieces with the interesting seams. The corduroy (non-stretch) sews up differently--I have to take more time fitting, because there is no lycra to pull it back into shape. I'm almost finished: I need to hem the legs as well as (hand)sewing on the hook and eye. I had problems sewing the buttonhole on the first version because of the thickness of the denim. I remembered that I had hooks and eyes, so I decided to use that as the waistband closure. I should be done tonight!

Line Drawing

Fashion photo from Burda World of Fashion.

Muslins! or Sewing vs. Fitting

I'm learning more about the value of muslins by experience. A muslin is a test garment: it's purpose is to fit the garment to the wearer--it's not meant to be worn as "real clothing." I don't like the idea of making muslins, because it's "extra work." Well, I have learned that if I don't make a muslin, the first version of the garment is a toile by default.

I have made two versions of Simplicity 3696, the drawstring pants. The first pair is by default, a muslin. I sewed them wonderfully, but the fit was off. Even though I pin-fit the pattern paper, the finished project was too loose and baggy--they resembled pajamas, and are not suitable for work and are destined to Goodwill. In the next version, made from the same fabric (a solid color seersucker with a crosswise stretch), I took in the outside seam from the waist to the knees (in the next version, I just might cut the pattern to the smaller size on the outside seam). The difference in the fit is amazing. The waist is about 2 inches smaller, so there is less fabric bunching up on the drawstring belt, and my waist is now visible. I'll try to take some pictures and add them sometime tomorrow, so you can see the difference. The second pair, dark navy blue, are suitable for work.

I'm also revisiting the Burda World of Fashion Pants 09-2005-129. I tried making this earlier this year (without a muslin), but the fit was off. Way off. I just bagged up everthing and set it aside. I pulled this UFO (Un Finished Object) out of a pile and took a closer look at them. After I tried them on I could see that I needed to lengthen the crotch (front and back--I had to do this on Simplicity 3880, and 3696 and the wrinkles seemed to indicate this alteration). So I altered the pattern, pin fit it and it seemed better. Well, as good as swedish tracing paper can look taped together (I trace BWOF patterns without the seam allowance). And then I couldn't find any suitable muslin fabric in my stash. I swear, sometimes it's like dying of thirst while floating on a raft in the middle of the ocean.

This past weekend there was an estate sale in my hometown. Since I'm cleared for driving, I decided to attend. The estate belonged to a tailor's family and there was lots of housewares and furniture. I, of course, headed directly to the sewing area. The buttons had been picked over, but I was able to get two bolts of fabric, one of which I can use for muslins. It's a really nice creamy white cotton sateen (with a very similar hand/feel to the Catherine Ogust fabrics I got from an online coop). It might be upholstery weight (it's non-stretch, 54 inches wide) and it's almost too nice for muslins.

But I bit the bullet, measured off 2 and a half yards and cut a muslin of the BWOF-09-2009-129 pants. I was able to sew them up (no topstitching except for the front pockets, rudimentary darts, no seam finishes, unhemmed and without a zipper in the fly. Hey! it's a muslin) in less than an hour. And they fit pretty darn well. I need to lengthen the hem by about an inch so I have more freedom for alterations. Even though the muslin isn't suitable for wearing outside the workroom it looks much better than the first version which is more finished (with topstitching, installed fly zipper, etc). I'll save the muslin so that I can use it to play around with adding/fitting the waistband. I'm coming to realize that it's not extra work to make a muslin.

Sewing slow

I'm sewing slowly this week--I did sew a Simplicity 2603 cardi-wrap in red cotton-cotton lycra. The fabric is a bit too heavy for the pattern--the red wrap does not drape very well. 2603 has has a very wide neckline. So in my next version, out of a gray poly-rayon-mystery fabric from Fabrics R Us, I have made the neckline 2 inches narrower.

Reasons for not blogging as much: I'm busy at work. And I've gotten some new furniture--a couch, coffee table and side table. My apartment is looking very grown up, with a style that is beyond graduate student (which I'm more than 10 years beyond). The couch is perfectly placed, across the room from the TV, with the coffee table in easy reach, along with all the remote controls (TV,cable, VCR, DVD player.).

Simplicity 3684 Threads Blouse

When I'm not re-arranging my apartment, I'm working on a new project - Simplicity 3684, the Threads Blouse. This pattern has the different cup sizes so I don't have to do a FBA. I'm using some white stretch poplin (I think that it's poplin) that I got at a BABES meeting (thank you, Georgene!). It's kind of a muslin, as I'm still learning how to sew wovens: I'll have to make a collar, cuffs, and a button placket. The back also features long darts for shaping. My work wardrobe needs more woven shirts. A plain white shirt will fit in nicely and I have several fabric pieces in the my stash that will make great shirts. Are the solid colors? Only a few of them....

Oh, I added a label cloud using these instructions .