McCall's 5857 - Shorts - Review

Pattern Description: "Easy" McCall's shorts in three lengths, with slanted side seam pockets and belt carriers

Pattern Sizing: The pattern comes in sizes 4 - 20. I used the size on the upper end of the scale.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I made view C, the longer shorts without the cuffs. Front View

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were. I didn't look at the zipper instructions and used Sandra Betzina's from the Threads website. I feel very comfortable with zipper flys now. I add the darts before I attach the waistband---this allows me to check the fit and make a decision on any alterations (e.g. taking in by changing the seam line, etc.) or taking in a dart) zipper fly detail

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? We were expecting a heatwave this week, so I decided to make some shorts to wear instead of yoga pants. If you know how to fit pants to yourself, then these are easy shorts to make. The heatwave didn't materialize, but the shorts are a great transitional garment.

Fabric Used: I made two pairs (and one muslin): one out of a brown pinstripe mystery fabric from Fabrix in SF, and the other from a blue & orange (cotton/linen & silk? or something else) mystery blend from Ressy's coop. The pictures show the blue pair of shorts. I've worn them today and I'm convinced that they have linen, because they wrinkle like linen (but they are cool). I was able to find a button out of my copious button stash.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

1) I extended the front and back crotch lines (more in the back)

2) Added about a 3/8 of a inch along the hipline on the back piece (adding width) at the waist, and added along the back center seam.

3) Widened the fly extensions by 1/2 an inch so my topstitching would definitely catch the extensions.

4) I used a special stitch on the side seams instead of a triple stitch for topstitching. pocket detail showing topstitching

5) Before adding the waistband (after most of the pieces are assembled), I tried on the garment to figure out where the darts should go.

6) I put a center back seam in the waistband (which I had to make longer).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! I would sew this again, but probably not until next spring. It's definitely a keeper. I can make these in about 6 hours, with a break before I attach the waistband.

Conclusion: I'm glad that I pulled this out of my stash to work on! These shorts will help me for the rest of the week.

McCall's 5857 - Shorts! and Future Projects

I decided to take a break from the BWOF 9-2005-129 pants because of a heat wave we are currently experiencing in the San Francisco Bay area. One item that is lacking from my wardrobe are shorts. I stopped wearing them several years ago for no particular reason. Temperatures are supposed to reach the upper nineties in the next few days (and I live on the Peninsula, so it's going to be hotter than living in SF). After spending close to three weeks away from work, I have grown tired of wearing yoga pants all the time. Note: the pants made from KwikSew 3115 or 2723 -- the shorts lengthened to capri pants. With this heatwave, shorts are a good idea.

I pulled this pattern out of my stash and I decided to make view C (the longer shorts without the cuffs). For my first pair, I tissue-fitted (re: Pants for Real People) and compared the front and back crotch lines to the Burda pants. I added inches along the front and back crotch line, grading up along the inseam. I need to find out if there is some formula about adding inches to the crotchline: if you add 1-2 inches along the crotchline, how far down do you go along the inseam? 5 inches? 6 inches? I've just been eyeballing it and guessing, but if there is a rule of thumb, I'd appreciate hearing it. I'll take another look at Real Pants for Real People to find out if I missed this detail.

I have made two pairs of shorts: one from a navy blue plaid seersucker (when I wear these, I feel like I'm stolen my dad's boxer shorts) and a brown pinstriped mystery fabric. Both are from Fabrix in SF, the plaid bought years ago. Each pair of shorts took a yard and 1/8 of 60 inch width fabric. I'm getting better at fitting--the fabric hangs very well and nothing seems to be pulling. I do need to work on fitting waistbands --I'm allowing too much length and I'm getting gaps in the back. I can wear a belt with this pattern, so practically speaking this problem is taken care of, but it's one more item that I'd like to add to my skill list.

The pattern does go together very nicely! After tracing my Burda patterns, it's very nice to be able to cut pattern tissue and not add seam allowances. I usually add seam allowances when I'm cutting out my fabric. I use shears and my cutting table is a foldable cardboard surface that I lay out on my carpet. I'll be honest, the seam allowances are probably not even. But when I use a pattern that I purchased on sale from J's, I don't have to worry about tracing or seam allowances, so it's one less thing to set this awry. In any case, the hip pockets and front hip yokes line up very well. Wow. All together it's taken be about a day to sew each pair of shorts, If I pushed it, I probably could finish one pair in day. Thanks to my experiences with different pants patterns I feel very comfortable sewing yoke pockets and doing a fly zipper. I'm so glad I have a large stash of everything.

Future projects: I want to work on is Vogue 8555, a dress (view A, with the sleeves and pegged skirt). I have several pieces of cotton sateen that would be suitable for this dress. If I choose the right fabrics and colors, I should be able to wear this into late autumn. Because of the construction, I definitely need to make a muslin.

Line Drawings below:

I also want to make BWOF 05-2009-110. I've seen several really nice versions of this top: Michelle at Cheap and Picky (see the posts from September 2009) has been working with this pattern and I have gotten some good ideas. Thank you, Michelle!

Question: if you do not have a photographer on site, how are you taking pictures of your finished garments: I can do a hanger photograph, I can put blouses and dresses on my mannequin, but pants seem to need a fashion shot. I've figured out how to use the self-timer on my camera, but the pictures seem very blah... any suggestions?