Random Sunday thoughts

Hi Kyle--I study Egyptian-style belly dance. I like it--it's a lot of fun and a great excuse to dress up in fun costumes and wear tons of cosmetics (if you do not look like a drag queen, go back to the mirror)

Does anyone else think that the TLC television channel is taunting viewers by showing back-to-back marathon episodes of Extreme Couponing and Hoarders? I respect the need to save money--and yes, I'm frugal--but I'm very disturbed by the couponers' stockpiles of groceries. I say this while staring at my sewing stash of fabric, patterns,and notions and wonder if the pot is calling the kettle black... I'm very glad that the Extreme Couponers are organized! LOL!

My frugal tip : my mobile phone (AT&T) was physically falling apart (phones don't bounce when dropped) . I was able to buy a Go-Phone (AT&T) from Best Buy, put my sim card into the phone and voila! I have a new phone. The best part--the phone was only $10. Hallelujah!

Sewing! I did manage to trace out a new-to-me Kwik-sew t-shirt pattern: KW 2594. It's from 1997. It features side panels and sleeve panels, which should allow for more fitting opportunities. I'll continue to work on this pattern this afternoon and figure out how well it fits...

Thank you, After the Dress! and Journey to Los Angeles

Last Thursday morning, I heard some great news! I had won the After the Dress 600th blog post give-away! I have a $60 gift certificate to Gorgeous Fabrics! Thank you, Gwen. I will post about my purchase and my projects. I've been reading Gwen's blog since 2009, I think. I always enjoy reading her Talk Back Thursday posts which allow an opportunity to learn how other sewists would handle a sewing challenge or situation.

I learned that I won this wonderful prize right before I left on a road trip to Los Angeles for some dance workshops. I left 2 hours later than I wanted to, but I made good time. I recommend listening to audio books. I borrowed an Elmore Leonard novel (Gold Coast) from the library and it really helped the miles fly by on highway five. Don't listen to Elmore Leonard with young children in the car (well, unless you want to warp their brains)--I'm sure that Leonard was a strong influence on Quentin Tarantino.

I had a great time in Los Angeles. I managed to make it to the Fabric District twice. On Friday, I went to the FIDM Scholarship store and purchased several lengths of fabric ($1 yard) while having a conversation with two students. I also managed to go to their museum and saw the exhibition of Motion Picture Costume Design (note--there is a free bathroom in the museum on the first floor behind the "Last Airbender" display).

I drove to the Fabric District (if there is no construction, it's a straight shot on 9th to District). I parked in the lot on S. Wall Street above Mike's Fabrics--Sherril on PR said it was the cheapest and she was right ($3.25 on weekdays and $5, I think, on weekends).

I bought some Hawaiian print fabric (3 pieces--shirt and dress lengths) from Islands Fabrics (which is next to Mike's Fabrics). I had to get some Hawaaiian print fabrics after seeing the Alfred Shaheen exhibit at the SJ quilt museum last fall (and after making a great blouse from some red Hawaiian print fabric from a BABES swap). I also went to the Michael Levine Loft ($2.50/a pound. Prices have increased from $2/a pound in December 2010). At the loft, I bought some great knits, including grey double knit that I later saw in the ML retail store at $9/yard. I also bought some tribaley-style print knits. I browsed at another store to get some sewing chalk/fabric markers, and a hip-curve (I should have waited until I got to LA Alex/Kashcools, because it was the hip-curve ruler was $3 cheaper) and then I headed back to the hotel for a workshop.

On Saturday, I lost some time, because of traffic detours in down town LA (I think that they schedule all the construction/heavy equipment stuff for weekends). I went to B. Black, which has nice woolens and menswear fabrics, but I didn't buy anything because I have enough in my stash, already. Since time was tight, I went to the Michael Levine main store (I managed to park in their tiny store lot which allows 1 hour of free parking with purchase, then $3 for every 10 minutes). I bought a skirt length of a vivid purple/black buffalo plaid (rayon blend?), pants length (I think) of brown rayon, and more knits (dress-length black double knit, blouse lengths of stripes and animal prints). I was also able to caress and pet the Liberty Tana lawns (they are behind a locked case). At $35 a yard, I did not buy any (I didn't have a project in mind). Unfortunately, Michael Levine doesn't swatch Liberty fabrics. After touching Liberty lawn, quilting cotton feels like sandpaper. Sigh. After purchasing what I needed/wanted, I headed back to the hotel in el Segundo to attend the dance workshops.

Right now, I think that I no longer have the urge to shop at the LA Fashion District because I feel that I've missed something. That said, if you have ever have the chance to go, do take a look around. Do try a bacon wrapped hot-dog with a cold soda (it's more refreshing than it sounds). If you are not looking for something specific, I think that the Michael Levine Loft is a good place to go for fabric (you will never know what you will find). One day when I go to LA, I'll even make it to Santee Alley where they actually sell clothing and other goods, but I think that I'm good for at least another year. I still putting this stuff away.

[pictures to be added later]

planning for a long weekend

January is turning into the month of de-stashing and de-cluttering. I've entered the PR stash contest-and I'm currently at 1.75 yards, so I haven't been sewing. I did manage to go through my stash and identify materials I will not use. I managed to bring 3 boxes of crafty trim and knitting stuff to a BABES meeting (BABES - a group of local sewists). I also gave some stuff to my co-worker who is going to send them to his sisters who quilt (and live in Iowa). I did manage to acquire more fabric. I carpooled to the BABES meeting with a friend who had never been to Happy Stop, so I had to introduce her to Simon. I managed to leave with a modest 9 yards: two lengths suitable for trousers or sheath dresses, and one blouse length.

I was unable to locate the key to the lock in my storage unit, so my luggage has been in my bedroom for the past month. I've been very annoyed while walking around it every morning. I've also spent several nights each week looking for the key without success. One the tech guys at work told me that they had some bolt cutters! I borrowed them and I cut the lock on my storage unit. My luggage is out of my apartment and locked away (with a combination lock--the combination is taped to my fridge). Since January 1, I've probably (re) gained more floorspace, probably a 3 by 4 foot patch. It's small, but it's progress!

While I was going through my stash, I came across several UFOs, including 3 unfinished pairs of Jalie 2909 trousers. They were neatly packed away in zip bags in various stages of completion. My goal during this long weekend is finish at least 1 pair. I'm laundering some stash fabric, so I can make another Simplicity 3684 blouse. If I can make two garments this weekend, I'll be very happy

I'm also laundering some stash fabric from a previous BABES meeting.

Happy New Year!

I want to wish health and happiness to everyone in 2011. I think that it's been a tough year on many levels.

I have been spending the past few weeks working and recovering from the cough that I caught in Egypt. I'm mobile and able to go into work, but dang, when I start coughing, everything stops for about 5 minutes.

I've spent this afternoon re-organizing some of my fabric stash and trying to sort out fabric that I'm not going to use and that I should donate/trade/gift. I'm going to do the same thing with my clothing. I just have too much fabric in my apartment. I'm participating in PatternReview's Stash contest, so I need to clear out space for new garments in my closets and drawers. I have several TNT patterns for tops that will work nicely, including the BurdaStyle 9-2010-121 turtleneck that I managed to trace off and sew earlier this week. Since I can make these patterns over and over again, I should take the opportunity to clear out tops that I no longer wear.

The massive amounts of sewing related stuff are making me feel uncomfortable and I'm glad that I'm sorting through things. Last night I went through and organized my sewing magazines (Burda, Knip, Threads) to clear out some space. I managed to pull out my UFO's (Un - Finished Objects) from under my sewing table (when I reached a stopping point on the project, I put it in a 3-4 gallon ziplock bag and tossed it under the table. Out of sight= out of mind). I seem to have more trousers projects than I remember.

I'm not buying any more fabric until I go to Los Angeles in March (fingers crossed that my plans work out). I did manage to buy some more fabric for Christmas New Year's presents for my coworkers, as well as a quick trip to Fabrics R Us in San Jose for garment fabric. I'm was sad to realize that Fabrics R Us has consolidated to two storefronts, instead of the three that I'm accustomed to seeing. I worry about the fabric stores and vendors--I am seeing more sales announced more frequently: I sense more tough times ahead. I hope that my friends and colleagues remain in business.

My goals? To consume what I purchase (to reduce on stashing--if I can purchase it once, then I can purchase it again. I don't need to buy it all at once); to take a worldview on events (to look at things from a perspective more widely than my own); and to take pleasure in simple things.

Also, if I'd appreciate it if I could find the key to my storage unit, so I can put my luggage away. :)

Thank goodness for UFO's and TNT's

I'm leaving on Sunday, travelling to warmer place and I've sewing at least 1 garment a day. I can only do this because I'm sewing TNT patterns (TNT = Tried and True). Sewing TNTs means that I don't have to make a muslin of a new pattern. I don't like the actual physical process of making a muslin (practice garment), but I appreciate why I should make one. If I don't make a muslin, the first version of the garment that I sew turns out to be a muslin.

I've sewn two bamboo knit jersey (purchased from a coop) Burda t-shirt: one brown, one white, both with three-quarter sleeves. These should work for simple casual everyday clothing. I have used at least 3 yards from my stash. I'm sooo happy!

One of the events I'm attending recommends that I pack a garment suitable for a cocktail party (well, that's how I'm reading the event description). I rarely wear cocktail dresses, I don't go to church, so I don't have a lot of dressy clothing. I live in the capital of business casual, so I'm went through my closet and tried to find some separates that might work. I found a somewhat boho skirt: it's a wraparound skirt made from a shiny pink wine colored skirt with what appears to be a sheer black sari overlay. I was going through my fabric stash to locate a suitable black fabric for a dressy-tshirt top, when I found a UFO (un finished object): a Vogue dress, 8386 (now out of print). About 2 years ago, I started to make this for an event that in the midst of sewing, I decided not to attend. I made view B, in a thin sparkly black knit (fiber content unknown) purchased from Simon at Happy Stop ($2 a yard!) in Oakland. I think that it's go the right amount of glamour.

When I stopped, I had assembled the bodice (the bodice was the most technically challenging part of the dress) and the dress's skirt and I had partially assembled the two pieces. I did have the foresight to put all the fabric pieces, with the pattern (and instructions) in a big (three gallon?) bag. I was looking for the extra fabric, when I pulled out the dress, it looked great despite being in a plastic bag and moved around on the floor for the past 24 months. Perfect for traveling! LOL! I finished assembling it, tried it on and hemmed it. It should work out very well. I'll have to make certain to bring a shawl or scarf to wear with it, so that I can cover my arms if I feel uncomfortable.

This is all coming together--I'm so happy.

Self Stitched September and Jalie 2909

Earlier this summer I signed up for Self Stitched September. Last weekend I realized that September is only a few weeks days away, so I had better start stitching for the cooler faller weather. Well, starting on Monday, the San Francisco Bay area has been hit by a heat wave. It's been averaging 90 plus degrees in my area. I have found it challenging to pull the wool blends from my stash to sew. I decided that I need to make some winter/autumn weight (err...this is San Francisco Bay area winter/autumn weight, which means that while it might get cold, we don't get any snow or ice that doesn't melt away).

I have made progress, though. I have made 3 pairs of Jalie 2909, Women's Classic Trousers. As I mentioned earlier, this is a very simple pattern with 3 pieces. The pattern is designed for a fabric with 20% crosswise stretch (one of my favorite tips for a knit gauge is located here on the Sewing Diva's blog (not the current blog)) but you can alter the pattern for fabrics with zero stretch. Two of the pairs of trousers are suitable for autumn, in color and fabric weight (the summer weight pair was made from a pastel plaid---I'm going to try and wear them several times before the season is over). I've used stash fabric from Happy Stop, Fabrix, and Michael's (Yay! that's close to 9 yards!). I'm planning on making two more pairs, so I can wear one pair each day to work. When I finish making the trousers, I'm going to look at some tops, jackets and sweater tops.

Since I have altered the pattern so it fits, these pants a very fast sewing job (umm. I'm not putting in the crease and I'm adding belt loops. I should probably draft a contour waistband so it fits better). Cutting out the fabric is very quick (rotary cutter), and I can sew a fly zipper in 20 minutes. I'm not doing an elaborate seam finishing: just top stitching down the seam allowances with decorative stitches.

I'm going to try and use my bias tape collection to finish the seams. Now that I know that the pattern has been suitably altered, I can see that it will be easy to apply the bias tape before assembling the different pattern pieces. I have bazillions of yards and packets of bias and seam tape. Whenever I go to an estate sale that mentions sewing goods, I end up with more bias tape and zippers. My zipper drawers are full (yes, I have TWO drawers of all sorts of zippers), and I need to create a more organized space for the bias tape (and everything else in my apartment).

Speaking of estate sales, I found the mother load on Monday night, and it was right around the corner from my house. I had a trip planned to Costco and took a quick look at Craigslist. I saw that a "free stuff" listing that described "some sewing goods." Since the house was close by I decided to drop by. It turned that the previous owner (deceased several months earlier) was a serial crafter, from sewing to knitting to rug hooking to jewelry making. I was able to go through the items and ended up with a large amount of vintage patterns (including a lot of Stretch-and-Sew patterns), seam tape, more zippers, random yardage of nylon tricot in funky 1970s patterns, hem markers, and other stuff that I'm still going through. I ended up splitting the available collection of stuff with another sewist who was also going through the materials. My tiny little car was packed when I drove away. I told the young couple who were handling the distribution to call me if they found the button collection, but I also advised them that they could probably sell the buttons on eBay, especially if the buttons were on cards or that they would make a nice memento for someone in the family. I have an over abundance of fabrics and notions, so now I need to actually use some of it. When I go to estate sales, sometimes I see the foreshadowing of my own life....

African Fabrics from Michael's Fabrics/A Fabric Place

My bundle arrived from Michael's Fabrics today. They are gorgeous! I have 5 pieces which should be fun to work with. All of my fabrics came from the swatches that Sherri kindly sent me a earlier this month. ( I received 2, 4, 8, 9, 10) I'm going to wash them later this afternoon, so that they will be ready to go. I'm not certain which patterns I'm going to use but they are yummy. I found some new source of inspiration photographs--Jewel by Lisa-- courtesy of Eyeadaba's review on PR.

Right now, I'm recovering from a weekend dance workshop. I haven't attended a dance workshop in over a year. A weekend dance workshop means 3 hour class on Friday, 4 hours on Saturday, 4 hours on Sunday, and a show on both nights. I did not dance in the show on Saturday, but I did perform Sunday night. My arms and legs are very tired. I'm glad that I took Monday off from work. I'm happy to say that I made almost everything I wore this weekend (except lingerie and footwear), including the costume (very simple folkloric style). More on that later--I need to forage for some food.

May Recap

What did I sew during the Merry Month of May?

Six pairs of Marrakesh pants.

1. one in heavy rayon suiting (from Fabrics R Us in San Jose via the stash).
2. one in a slate grey flannel (from the stash from somewhere). I honestly cannot remember how I acquired this fabric. My stash may be reproducing on it's own--it would explain all the lint I find in my apartment.
3. one in a green textured linen (from Elliot Berman, owned less than 2 weeks before cutting!). These are fun, because I used a quilting cotton in a US dollar print for the pockets and waistband lining--I'll always have money in my pockets!
4. one in wild burgundy and cream plaid, with a lime green line (from a Hancock Fabrics store closure, from the stash, and it's at least a year old). And yes, I matched the plaids on all the seams, including the center back seam which matches horizontally, but not vertically (because the plaid is uneven). I love these pants---they remind me of a pair of Perry Ellis plaid pants that I wore when I was in high school. I still have those pants--I'm never going to fit in them again, but just looking at them in my closet makes me smile.
5. one in a reddish-pink cottony/lineny blend. This pair of pants frays whenever I launder it-these pants are not going to last through the summer because the I didn't take the time to finish all the seams. The allowances are topstitched down, but the unfinished edges are going to erode away like a cliffside hit by ocean waves at high tide (from Fabrics R Us, owned less than 1 week before cutting).
6. one embroidered khaki linen/cotton blend (from Happy Stop, owned less than 1 week before cutting). A fun neutral color, but the embroidery makes it a little more special than the plain khaki pants that are all over Silicon Valley.

After sewing six pairs of these pants, I can sew this pattern from memory, including the fly zipper. Sewing the Marrakesh pattern from memory doesn't mean that I didn't make mistakes, but I was able to catch them and fix them before they went too far. Regarding zippers: I watched the Threads/Sandra Betzina video a few times while I was sewing the first two pairs, but last night when I pulled out my pattern for the BWOF 402 pants (I need to have more trousers in my wardrobe rotation), I didn't hesitate to put in the zipper for muslin. I must have been upset when I last tried sewing the 402 pants, as I found the pattern all crumpled up. Luckily, Swedish tracing paper irons very well.

More sewing--Four Sunshine tops:

1. one in purple & white stretch (rayon & lycra?) fabric from Michael Levine Loft (purchased in February 2010.
2. one in a brown tribal cotton lycra (from an online coop, via the stash, at least 1 year old). This may be too informal for work, but it's great to wear on weekends
3. A combination of a black rayon/lycra and a remnant of black/red/white/beige stretch lycra (from Happy Stop, at least 3 years old). Definitely suitable for work.
4. A black and white small/geometric stretch lycra, from a BABES exchange, I think (age unknown). I debated using a solid color for the collar and I elected not to. I think that was not the best decision. The result is a very busy looking shirt. I'll wear it a couple of times before I decide if it's a pass/fail.

I can understand why this pattern is so popular--it's a great/fashionable shirt that got a little more going on than a simple t-shirt--its very flattering. But it's easy to sew.

And I made two other tops:

1 Simplicity 4076 (the simple t-shirt) made from a red and white chain-link patten (from Gorgeous Fabrics from about 4 years ago, via the stash). Definitely suitable for work. I like it because it's bright.

1 Burda 7970 T-shirt, made from a Gustav Klimt cotton lycra from Fabrix (owned less than 2 weeks before cutting). Very suitable--I wore it today. It might be better for Fall/Autumn, but I really like the rich colors.

1 Simplicity 2614. This is a pullover top (made from a woven) and it's custom fit pattern (A-D cups). Another plus is that it doesn't require buttonholes. Laura--thank you bringing this pattern to my attention. I made two muslins, the second one in a clearly defined striped shirting, which didn't seem to work. The back and lower front is cut on the bias (which is why you can pull it on over your head) and the stripes just look awkward. I think that a small scale pattern (floral or checks) will work better. I did pull some fabrics out of the stash for this project, but I got busy with other patterns.

I also have one garment which hasn't quite reached UFO status--one pair of McCall's shorts--I need to re-cut the waistband, and attach that. It's been sitting at my cutting table for 2 weeks.

I also went through part of my fabric and notion stash (I'd get overwhelmed if I went through ALL of it). I pulled out and re-folded some of my knits and stretch fabrics, selecting some for the different t-shirts tops that I planned on sewing (but I didn't get around to sewing ALL of them LOL!). I also went through my stash of interfacing, and I think that I'm set for the next few years, unless someone figures out a way to make garments completely out of interfacing. *smile*

There was a meme travelling around the blogosphere --Me-Made-May*. I followed along, trying to wear clothing that I had made (of course, I didn't take any pictures). I had problems on Fridays--we have casual Fridays at work, and while I have made some jeans, I just don't like the way they fit. So one of my upcoming projects is to make another pair of jeans (or pants from denim), so I have something to wear on Fridays.

*There will be a follow up in the Fall, Self-Stitched September, so maybe I'll try to participate in that.

Memorial Day 2010 - sewing and stash

It's a three day weekend in the United States. Monday is Memorial day, commemorating the men and women who have died in military service. For those who have died, we salute you.

* * *

I've been sewing: I've made 2 Hotpatterns Sunshine tops and 1 pair of Hotpatterns Marrakesh pants. I'm really happy about the Marrakesh I'm getting ready to make another top. It's late, so tonight I'm going to make a knit top, using a TNT. It's too late to start a woven top, using a new pattern.

Yesterday, I also refolded a large part of my fabric stash. it's great--I know what I have it now. I really have a LOT of fabric. It makes me wish that I had a two bedroom apartment, so that I could devote 1 room to sewing and stash storage. I was very bad last weekend. I fell off the wagon and I'm rolling around in yardage.

Last Saturday, I went to Happy Stop in Oakland and I purchased 2 bags of fabric. I hadn't been there for about a year. Simon missed me! I bought some beige embroidered cotton, 2 1/2 yards that I managed to squeeze a pair of the Marrakesh pants (note: I really need at least 2 5/8 of a yard.) I also purchased some ikat style prints wovens (one pink and one turquoise), as well as some quiet rayon plaids, suitable for pants and skirts, or sheath dresses. I have a habit of picking remnants, even at fabric discounters. I'm really glad that I picked up the habit of pre-washing. After my purchasing spree, I went home, sewed the fabric pieces together and drove to my local laundry-mat. I loading 2 front loading washing machines, put in the laundry detergent and synthrapol, loaded my quarters, and I watched the water turn brown in one of the machines. The dye on three of the remnants ran--lucking none of the dye stuck to the other fabrics, but I have some yardage that is looks like a Deadhead caught in the rain. I'm really glad that I pre-wash with synthrapol. The washed out fabrics are probably going to Goodwill. I'm not upset about the remnants that ran--Simon bundled together all the pieces I selected that were less than 2 yards and had given me a special price. If I had paid full retail/britex prices, I would be upset. As it is, I resigned to the fact that I thought that some of the fabrics had a weird finish or hand to them when I folded them in the store. C'est la vie!

A week ago Friday, I went to an estate sale during lunch time--it was less than a mile from work and the craigslist ad mentioned fabric, so I decided to go. It turned out to be the estate of the owners of a Japanese gift shop. I managed to score several Japanese fabric, several yukata/kimono lengths of cotton (they were cotton--I could read the kanji), marked down from $168 to $10 each. The fabric is about 12 inches wide, and was rolled up and wrapped in paper. I think that the previous owners had cats, because I kept sneezing when I picked them up. They were part of the laundromat trip last Saturday--I did fold and sew/baste the fabric lengths before laundering, and then I spent a good few hours ironing them dry and re-rolling them before storing them.

I know that I'm jumping around in my timeline, but after I went to Happy Stop in Oakland, I decided to go to Fabrix in San Francisco. It was a glorious day--the sun was out, it was warm and it was a great day to cross the Bay Bridge. I bought some more fabric, most notably some knit yardage: a grey, black, and white abstract suitable for work clothing, and another printed knit that is reminiscent of Gustav Klimt. And more fabrics, mostly rayon wovens that are suitable for pants.

I hope that everyone enjoys a happy and safe holiday.

HotPatterns 1071 Weekender Sunshine Top

My current project is working with the HotPatterns 1071 Weekender Sunshine top. This top has been reviewed over 25 times on PatternReview--it's considered a winner. I purchased this pattern last summer, but I didn't have time to make it before the weather turned cold. Now the weather is warm and I have a plethora of knits and jerseys, so it's time to sew. I need more summer tops, as the ones that I have made over the past few years have been worn out. We are business casual at work and I want to make certain that I'm not veering to the sloppy side of casual.

The Sunshine Top is a t-shirt variation--there are 5 pattern pieces: front, back, front collar, back collar, and sleeves (there is an optional hem band). It's got a round interfaced collar. Last week I traced the pattern pieces, cut them out and started sewing a wearable muslin (e.g. I used a knit that wouldn't break my heart if I had to throw it away). This is an older pattern and the instructions are not illustrated. The instructions start with assembling the collar pieces, then assembling the bodice then combining the two. It's pretty straightforward, if you can remember to sew right sides together. For some reason I didn't understand them. Frustrated, I decided to search around for someone else's review and I came across Pam Erny's Off the Cuff tutorial on this top. Wow! The instructions were soo much clearer after reading through that tutorial. Thank you, Pam!

I like how the first top turned out--the interfaced collar keeps the top from being too informal. Trudy has videos showing how the pattern variations--part one and part two. I made my first Sunshine top from a cotton interlock (with no appreciable lycra). I made some minor alterations to the pattern so it ill fit me better (a small FBA and adding more fabric to the front piece, to improve the drape). I made another one, this time using fabric that I purchased in at the Michael Levine Loft in Los Angeles. This fabric is a large scale abstract floral knit in shades of purple, lavender, and white. I was very surprised to discover that I don't have any dark purple thread! I did find a spool of lavender thread, which actually is a better match for this fabric, so off I went. I also have some solid color jerseys/knits--I think that the Sunshine top and this pattern will work well together. I think that the solid colors will also be more appropriate for a work environment.

It looks like the Merry Month of May might be HotPatterns month, too. I spent all day today sewing a new pair of Marrakesh pants in a light linen weave--these didn't turnout as well as my last pair--the back has some wrinkles that weren't visible in the other linen pair. Earlier this evening, I traced out the Miss MoneyPenny PussyCat Blouse. I purchased this pattern several years ago--my version has the Glamour Girl sizing. In the blogosphere, there have been several discussions about blouses with scarves or ties. Tomorrow night I'll try making it up in muslin to check the fit. If it works out, I'll make it in a real fabric. I have a collection of woven blouse-weight fabrics that I need to explore and sew down.

Note---regarding the February fabric haul: I'm looking through my pattern stash to find a great fit for the other fabrics I purchased in February. I haven't forgotten about them!

HotPatterns Wong Singh Jones Marrakesh Pants

After three muslins (made from muslin), I have made one wearable pair of HotPatterns Wong Singh Jones Marrakesh Pants. Yaaaay! Muslin number one was straight from the pattern. I found that I needed to increase the length of the U of my crotch, more on the back pants piece than in the front. I also added some on the sideseam (on the back piece). I made my first wearable pair from a grey fabric pinstriped with silver thread--it has a really nice drape, while it's soft to wear. I can't remember from where I got this: it could have been Fabrix, Fabrics R Us, or Happy Stop.

I'm happy with the final results, but I think that there are more fitting problems issues to fine-tune:

• I think that the front is a little too loose/drapey, so I'm folding out a .25 inch from the front piece, right along the center of the pattern piece.
• The waistline is a hybrid of elastic and drawstring, along with a zipper--I like how Trudy designed this. I've noticed that very easy to gather a lot of fabric on a drawstring, and this excess fabric will create a bulky waistline, but because of this design I think that I can shave about 1 to 1.5 inches from around the waist (from the front and back pants pattern pieces). If I remove this extra fabric, it will help provide better shaping to my waist. I can probably be more aggressive with removing extra fabric around the waist because the zipper will allow me pull the pants around around my hips. I'm debating if I want to keep the inseam pockets because reshaping the waist-to-hip curve means I'll have to check pockets, too. Many of the other sewists who have made this pattern eliminated the pockets completely. Decisions, decisions.

My next fabric will be a mystery slate grey piece that I pulled out of my stash. I was going to use a striped piece of black rayon (I think that it's rayon) that I purchased from Fabrix. Last night I pulled it out of my stash, removed the machine basting (I sew the ends of my fabric together when I prewash, then store the fabric with the basting. That way, I know that I washed it) and then I laid it out on my cutting table so that I could work on it when I got home. Then I realized that I was going to be altering and tweaking the fit again, and I thought about the strong stripes, so I went digging though my fabric stash again. I found the mystery slate grey piece along with some really colorful (and even) plaid pieces (that I know that I purchased from Fabrix). The plaids are currently in the wash with some recently acquired linen (which I will be labeling with their origin after the are removed from the dryer).

Catching up

I have been remiss in updating my blog. If you have been following my blog, thank you for your patience! It's been well over a month since I've made an entry. I've been busy though. Since my last post, I've:

• rehearsed and performed with a troupe at a dance festival (which also included creating and finishing my costume),
• helped a co-worker go fabric shopping with his visiting sisters,
• started working with a new manager at work (this a good thing),
• attended a work related conference,
• had a honeybee swarm invade my patio (if this happens to you, call a beekeeper and they can take care of it),
• had a U-pipe develop crack in my bathroom (thank goodness for two things: 1) I have a responsive landlady and 2) the damaged pipe drains water so I wasn't dealing with water pouring into my bathroom).

After I discovered the cracked U-pipe, I spent half the night re-arranging the sewing materials so that there would be room for the plumbers get around (my apartment looks like a ill-kempt fabric warehouse). But onward to sewing related things.

I've acquired more fabric under very sad circumstances. Last weekend, La Fred had a liquidation sale. Fred Bloembaum, the owner and creator was not there--she is very ill and her friends were running the sale. It was really two sales: one part were the sample clothes that Fred had made to demonstrate the patterns that she designs (it was advertised in Craigslist as Art to Wear). The other part of the sale was the dispersal of her sewing collection: her sewing books, patterns from her personal collection (e.g. Vogue, Butterick, etc), and her fabric and notions. I got to the sale in the late afternoon and by then the items were being discounted. I bought fabric (in great colors--coral and tangerine), sewing books, notions (needles, rotary blades, and petersham), patterns (mostly vogues and neue modes). It was very interesting to see her clothing merchandise and her sewing collection together in one room: it was a unique (if incomplete) view of the creative cycle. Fred is very artistic and creative in combining colors and textures--hopefully I can learn from her through her materials. In some ways, I'm very conservative when selecting/combining fabrics-- I was able to purchase some books that illustrate the different things: I'm enjoying reading "Modern Fashion in Detail" by Claire Wilcox and Valerie Mendes, which contains super close-up pictures of the clothing at the Victoria and Albert Museum. It's a great book to browse through. I'm still trying to find a place for my acquisitions.

I spent some time talking with Fred's friends. I did meet Fred at the Artistry in Fashion event, but I had not taken a workshop with her. Her friend and neighbor Mary told me that Fred is reading the messages sent to her at the CarePages (look for the group named FredFans) and she is touched and nicely overwhelmed by messages left by all people remember her from her workshops.

I have been sewing. I got tired of wearing the same clothing and I made 3 t-shirts from tried and true patterns: Simplicity 4076 and Burda 7970. I did use two fabrics from my LA trip, but they were not fabrics shown in previous post. One of the fabric was a remnant of a black and grey border print knit, the other is a orange/yellow/blue tie-dye mesh that a friend bought for me because I kept flirting bargaining with the store owner and his dad and she wanted to get out of there. I used a border knit print for the third shirt from my stash (purchased from Fabrix in SF). I also made some tea-cozies as gifts for my friends.

My next project is the Hot Patterns Marrakesh pants. I traced out the pattern over the weekend , read through a number of pattern reviews, and I actually cut out the fabric in muslin. I didn't compare the tracing to my previous pants draft, and I altered the tracing and made another muslin. Oh well, muslins are for learning--and I did figure out how the different pieces are assembled so it was a good time investment. I have altered my tracing for my curvy booty (lengthening the crotch after consulting Pants for Real People), pin fit the tracing paper. I feel comfortable that my next step is to cut out the pattern in real fashion fabric--one of the many pieces of inexpensive pieces of yardage that I have in my apartment. It this one works, then I'll use the good stuff.

Marlene Dietrich Pants Burda Plus 02-2007-402

I finished another pair of pants! Burda Plus 02-2007-402 is a wide legged pair of pants with a contour waistband (Burda calls this "Marlene Dietrich style").

I'm getting pretty fast at technically sewing pants, but fitting the pants is taking as long as the actual sewing. So this pair took me about 2 days of actual sewing (probably 7-8 hours total), which includes tracing the pattern, making a muslin, a trip to the store to get matching thread for the fashion fabric, a two day rest period. I made the version without the cuffs and the creases, so I know that saved me some time. I spent this morning finishing the waistband, adjusting the fit in the back and hemming. Based on the muslin, I lengthened the front and back crotch seams (by extending the pattern pieces). When I was fitting the pants, it seems like I removed all the fabric that I added. I guess that the inseam stretched. I think that I'll have to play around with the fit on the back a bit (right now, they fit as well as any ready-to-wear LOL!), but I think that this pants pattern can be moved into my pattern repertoire. If I can get a decent picture of the back with me in it, I'll post. There are some wrinkles that could be removed, but I can't figure out what alteration to make.

I am planning on making this pattern again--this pair was made from some brushed cotton twill ("brushed cotton" = "extra lint" in the sewing machine) from my stash. It spent a relatively short time in my stash--I purchased it from an online coop in the Spring. It's a nice olive green and more of a heavyweight twill than a medium. It's definitely a casual fabric. I have some other striped (pinstripes) that will change the look a bit.

The picture above is a true depiction of the color. I'm going to have to get a real tripod and figure out a standard pose for these project photos. If I wear these with a tucked in blouse (not my usual style), I will definitely add a belt.

Here is a hanger picture of the front:

Picture of the rear (hanger)

PatternReview located here.

Trousers! Burda Plus 02-2007-402

Over these past few weeks, I've made great progress on making trousers that fit (and fit properly)! My technical skills have improved, as have my fitting skills. I'm sooo happy! I'll have a new wardrobe for work. I'm almost finished with gray BWOF 09-2005-129--I need to either add a button and buttonhole or sew on some hooks and eyes. I've decided to let this pattern rest for a while and work on a new project while I have time to pay attention to it.

After poking around PatternReview, I decided to make Burda Plus 02-2007-402. Burda Plus 02-2007-402 is a simple pair of pants: no pockets, no yokes, no cuffs, just a shaped waistband and pants pieces. It has 4 pieces (6 if you count the belt carriers and the fly shield). Last night while watching Project Runway I traced it and cut out out the muslin. Since there are so few seams, I felt it was important to check how the pieces got together and how it looks on me, I spent this morning sewing the muslin and adjusting the fit. I've become a great fan of muslins. I will have to use the 40% off coupon at J's and get a bolt of muslin, so I won't hesitate to make them. I had a hard time cutting the white cotton sateen I got at an estate sale earlier this month. Sigh.

Burda Plus 02-2007-402 Technical Drawing

Burda Plus is published twice a year--the 02-2007 issue covers Spring/Summer Fashions. The suggested fabrics are "Pants/trouser fabrics, with or without stretch blend." Right now, I'm not going to add the cuff or the crease. I'm planning on a pair in olive green twill (from Ressy's coop) and another pair in a different fabric (probably a striped mystery stretch woven from Fabrix). Even though it's a Spring pattern, I think that it will be okay in an Autumn/Winter Fabric. There's a "Say Yes to the Dress" marathon on TLC--it's ideal sewing TV.

Kanga Khanga Kikoi

The Emmy Awards took place earlier this week and a Victoria Rowell (an actress on soap operas) wore a cotton dress depicting President Barack Obama. I've noticed some discussion on blogs and sewing websites as to whether this was an appropriate dress to wear on the Red Carpet. I think that it's a bit too casual--it's made from woven cotton. But I've never been on the Red Carpet, so I'm not an expert on what to wear.

However, I recognized the fabric immediately as an East African kanga (also spelled khanga, also called a kikoi). A kanga is a type of sarong, which can be worn wrapped in a myriad of ways. Here is a delightful video of three charming Tanzanian young ladies showing how to wear kangas.

Link to How to Wear a Kanga

Link to Arkansas State Presentation by Rose Ong'oa on Kangas (heavy on photos)

Right after the presidential election, several blogs that cover African American culture had images of Obama-themed Kangas. I searched around on eBay and on East African webstores. I almost bought one or two Obama bangas but I looked at my fabric stash and I decided to hold off. When would I ever wear them, especially since I already had one in my closet as a gift from a friend. I did some more searching for more webstores selling them and I located this a store that sells a number of commemorative kangas. Currently their stock includes Michael Jackson kanga.

Simply Tanzanian webstore Barack Obama Kangas (I'm having problems linking directly to the page--please use then menu on the Simply Tanzanian page to link to 'kangas.')

I think that these garments are kind of like commemorative t-shirts, at least ones with the pictures of politicians or celebrities. Many of the other kangas have really pretty patterns--I know, because I have one (I might have two--I can't find the other one, if I got two of them).

Twenty years ago, a friend of mine went to Kenya for geological/petroleum research and she brought back several kangas as gifts. I still have one--its lovely: a large geometric pattern in black and blue on white fabric. The cotton is loosely woven, not quite a gauze. I took a quick picture (so quick that I didn't iron it :) I was using it to wrap up other fabric in storage) I don't know what it the words mean on the bottom, but I think that the language might be Swahili. According to Google Translate, it means "rua not water thirsty yishi". Hmmm. Thank you, Bonnie! It's a lovely piece of fabric!

McCall's 5857 - Shorts! and Future Projects

I decided to take a break from the BWOF 9-2005-129 pants because of a heat wave we are currently experiencing in the San Francisco Bay area. One item that is lacking from my wardrobe are shorts. I stopped wearing them several years ago for no particular reason. Temperatures are supposed to reach the upper nineties in the next few days (and I live on the Peninsula, so it's going to be hotter than living in SF). After spending close to three weeks away from work, I have grown tired of wearing yoga pants all the time. Note: the pants made from KwikSew 3115 or 2723 -- the shorts lengthened to capri pants. With this heatwave, shorts are a good idea.

I pulled this pattern out of my stash and I decided to make view C (the longer shorts without the cuffs). For my first pair, I tissue-fitted (re: Pants for Real People) and compared the front and back crotch lines to the Burda pants. I added inches along the front and back crotch line, grading up along the inseam. I need to find out if there is some formula about adding inches to the crotchline: if you add 1-2 inches along the crotchline, how far down do you go along the inseam? 5 inches? 6 inches? I've just been eyeballing it and guessing, but if there is a rule of thumb, I'd appreciate hearing it. I'll take another look at Real Pants for Real People to find out if I missed this detail.

I have made two pairs of shorts: one from a navy blue plaid seersucker (when I wear these, I feel like I'm stolen my dad's boxer shorts) and a brown pinstriped mystery fabric. Both are from Fabrix in SF, the plaid bought years ago. Each pair of shorts took a yard and 1/8 of 60 inch width fabric. I'm getting better at fitting--the fabric hangs very well and nothing seems to be pulling. I do need to work on fitting waistbands --I'm allowing too much length and I'm getting gaps in the back. I can wear a belt with this pattern, so practically speaking this problem is taken care of, but it's one more item that I'd like to add to my skill list.

The pattern does go together very nicely! After tracing my Burda patterns, it's very nice to be able to cut pattern tissue and not add seam allowances. I usually add seam allowances when I'm cutting out my fabric. I use shears and my cutting table is a foldable cardboard surface that I lay out on my carpet. I'll be honest, the seam allowances are probably not even. But when I use a pattern that I purchased on sale from J's, I don't have to worry about tracing or seam allowances, so it's one less thing to set this awry. In any case, the hip pockets and front hip yokes line up very well. Wow. All together it's taken be about a day to sew each pair of shorts, If I pushed it, I probably could finish one pair in day. Thanks to my experiences with different pants patterns I feel very comfortable sewing yoke pockets and doing a fly zipper. I'm so glad I have a large stash of everything.

Future projects: I want to work on is Vogue 8555, a dress (view A, with the sleeves and pegged skirt). I have several pieces of cotton sateen that would be suitable for this dress. If I choose the right fabrics and colors, I should be able to wear this into late autumn. Because of the construction, I definitely need to make a muslin.

Line Drawings below:

I also want to make BWOF 05-2009-110. I've seen several really nice versions of this top: Michelle at Cheap and Picky (see the posts from September 2009) has been working with this pattern and I have gotten some good ideas. Thank you, Michelle!

Question: if you do not have a photographer on site, how are you taking pictures of your finished garments: I can do a hanger photograph, I can put blouses and dresses on my mannequin, but pants seem to need a fashion shot. I've figured out how to use the self-timer on my camera, but the pictures seem very blah... any suggestions?

Muslins! or Sewing vs. Fitting

I'm learning more about the value of muslins by experience. A muslin is a test garment: it's purpose is to fit the garment to the wearer--it's not meant to be worn as "real clothing." I don't like the idea of making muslins, because it's "extra work." Well, I have learned that if I don't make a muslin, the first version of the garment is a toile by default.

I have made two versions of Simplicity 3696, the drawstring pants. The first pair is by default, a muslin. I sewed them wonderfully, but the fit was off. Even though I pin-fit the pattern paper, the finished project was too loose and baggy--they resembled pajamas, and are not suitable for work and are destined to Goodwill. In the next version, made from the same fabric (a solid color seersucker with a crosswise stretch), I took in the outside seam from the waist to the knees (in the next version, I just might cut the pattern to the smaller size on the outside seam). The difference in the fit is amazing. The waist is about 2 inches smaller, so there is less fabric bunching up on the drawstring belt, and my waist is now visible. I'll try to take some pictures and add them sometime tomorrow, so you can see the difference. The second pair, dark navy blue, are suitable for work.

I'm also revisiting the Burda World of Fashion Pants 09-2005-129. I tried making this earlier this year (without a muslin), but the fit was off. Way off. I just bagged up everthing and set it aside. I pulled this UFO (Un Finished Object) out of a pile and took a closer look at them. After I tried them on I could see that I needed to lengthen the crotch (front and back--I had to do this on Simplicity 3880, and 3696 and the wrinkles seemed to indicate this alteration). So I altered the pattern, pin fit it and it seemed better. Well, as good as swedish tracing paper can look taped together (I trace BWOF patterns without the seam allowance). And then I couldn't find any suitable muslin fabric in my stash. I swear, sometimes it's like dying of thirst while floating on a raft in the middle of the ocean.

This past weekend there was an estate sale in my hometown. Since I'm cleared for driving, I decided to attend. The estate belonged to a tailor's family and there was lots of housewares and furniture. I, of course, headed directly to the sewing area. The buttons had been picked over, but I was able to get two bolts of fabric, one of which I can use for muslins. It's a really nice creamy white cotton sateen (with a very similar hand/feel to the Catherine Ogust fabrics I got from an online coop). It might be upholstery weight (it's non-stretch, 54 inches wide) and it's almost too nice for muslins.

But I bit the bullet, measured off 2 and a half yards and cut a muslin of the BWOF-09-2009-129 pants. I was able to sew them up (no topstitching except for the front pockets, rudimentary darts, no seam finishes, unhemmed and without a zipper in the fly. Hey! it's a muslin) in less than an hour. And they fit pretty darn well. I need to lengthen the hem by about an inch so I have more freedom for alterations. Even though the muslin isn't suitable for wearing outside the workroom it looks much better than the first version which is more finished (with topstitching, installed fly zipper, etc). I'll save the muslin so that I can use it to play around with adding/fitting the waistband. I'm coming to realize that it's not extra work to make a muslin.

New Project! Simplicity 3796

I had a post-surgery appointment with my doctor today and I was able to clarify what I can and cannot do physically and why I should avoid certain moves. I'm feeling very good over all. I foresee long walks in the next few weeks, but no crunches or strenuous stuff for another 6 weeks or so (or driving for another week). And I should make certain I don't overdo anything.

The end result is that I'm clear for sewing. Yay! After returning home from having lunch with my great friend (who has been taking to me to my appointments and shopping for food) it took me about 20 minutes of sitting around before I realized I could be cutting out fabric! My first choice: Simplicity 3796, which is a pattern for drawstring pants, shorts, and skirts. I'm making View A out of mystery fabric from Happy Stop in Oakland. It's black and it's kind of a seersucker with a crosswise stretch, fiber content unknown. I washed the fabric (and a couple of other pieces) before I went on leave from work, so it's ready to go.

I'm hoping this pattern works for wearing of the next few weeks while I'm home from work. If it's not too pajama-like, I might be able to wear it to work. That all depends on the fit. A few nights ago I cut out the pattern pieces (there are about 5 of them) and tried tissue-fitting the pattern using Pants for Real People, by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto. I ended up adding to the crotch length significantly (page 29). I like this book because it has photos and drawings, so I can find a woman who's body resembles mine and I can see how the tissue pattern was fitted, and I can see what alterations were made to the pattern. It's great for when I'm comparing wrinkles in in the mirror with wrinkles in the photo in the book. I'll have further proof when how well it works when I assemble everything and try it on tomorrow morning.

Tonight I was able to cut the pattern pieces out of the fabric, sew the yokes, outside seams and sew on the patch pockets. Tomorrow morning, I will sew the inseams, crotch, and casing/drawstring--I don't want to sew them tonight as I don't want to make a mistake that I'll have to pick apart tomorrow. One change I'm making is that the pattern calls for using twill tape as the draw string--I'm going to make the drawstring out of the fashion fabric, probably with an elastic extension in the back.

I'm so glad that the sewing drought is over! I'm ready to watch Project Runway and the Model show tonight. I feel like I'm moving forward!

Simplicity 3684 Threads Blouse

When I'm not re-arranging my apartment, I'm working on a new project - Simplicity 3684, the Threads Blouse. This pattern has the different cup sizes so I don't have to do a FBA. I'm using some white stretch poplin (I think that it's poplin) that I got at a BABES meeting (thank you, Georgene!). It's kind of a muslin, as I'm still learning how to sew wovens: I'll have to make a collar, cuffs, and a button placket. The back also features long darts for shaping. My work wardrobe needs more woven shirts. A plain white shirt will fit in nicely and I have several fabric pieces in the my stash that will make great shirts. Are the solid colors? Only a few of them....

Oh, I added a label cloud using these instructions .

Stash Stash Stash STACTCed

Where has summer gone? It's been a long time since I've posted--I missed posting entries in all of June and July. I'm still here. I've done some sewing: mostly fitness stuff and workout clothing. But my next major project is to re-arrange my apartment for two reasons. Here is the main one: my fabric/sewing/notions/patterns stash has grown out of control.

Last summer when I was trying to deal with stuff at work, I would visit estate sales looking for sewing notions and fabrics. I did very well: I got one of those accordion buttonhole measuring tools (I can't find it!) , lots of tracing tools, seam rippers, books, lots bias binding and rick rack and ribbons, loads of buttons, zippers (got an amazing selection from someone who used to work at a sewing/fabric store) and lots of vintage patterns. I also got into the habit of buying patterns at the pattern sales at Joann's and Hancock's. Fabrics--well that stash grew: the bricks and mortar stores/jobbers of Happy Stop in Oakland, Fabrics r Us in San Jose, Fabrix in San Francisco (and Discount Fabrics, and Darlene's in the Mission). And representing the online vendors: Gorgeous Fabrics, Michael's, Fashionista Fabrics, Ressy's coop, Lucy's, and FabricMart. After arranging stuff on the shelving, I was quite overwhelmed when I would enter my apartment. It was time to do something.

In July, I went to Ikea and bought the Anabode chest of drawers. This piece of furniture has been making appearances on a variety of different sewing blogs, literally around the world. After assembling it, I was able to fit in all my modern patterns, but very few of the vintage ones. The Anabode drawers are quite full. Later that month, I scored some discarded shelving from work and I decided to re-arrange my fabric stash, which quite overflowed the shelves. And I realized that I own a LOT of fabric. Now that I can see it on open shelves, I have a pretty good idea of how much I have, and in which colors. It's a lot of fabric. While it's daunting to realize that I have hoarded a lot of stuff. I think that this has gone beyond stashing to hoarding, because I'm not sewing as much as I feel I should. I have achieved Stash Accumulation Beyond Current Time Commitments ( which is abbreviated to "STACTC ". So is that stacked ? ). So no more purchasing until the end of the year. I think that the only exception that I can allow is thread.

The other reason I'm re-arranging stuff is that I'm getting a couch. Its being delivered Saturday morning. I used to have a futon couch for several years after I left grad school. About 5 years ago, I free-cycled it because I was tired of it, and I've been couchless every since. No easy chairs, either. Everything that hasn't been arranged has been shoved into random spaces so that the couch can be moved in. After the couch is here, then I can sort out more stuff and figure out which stuff is going away. It's going to be a fun weekend. :)