Season's Greetings!

At the close of this year, I would like to share wishes of Peace on Earth and Goodwill to all Humanity to everyone (blog readers or not). Cheerful Christmas! Happy (belated) Hanukkah , Enjoy (also belated) Eid, Celebrate Solstice and enjoy Keeping Kwanzaa! I believe that I can safely wish everyone health and prosperity in the New Year. :)

I'll be around and I should have time to post!

My Tried and True Sewing Patterns

While going through my stash this weekend, I realized that I have several tried and true sewing patterns. In no particular order:

1. KwikSew 2723. This envelope contains patterns for a sleeveless fitness top, fitness shorts (short and longer lengths) and fitness pants (one seam on the legs, plus the crotch). I have made all three of these patterns, and I have altered them for my body. I like the top because it's sleeveless and it features a Y-back, so the straps will not fall off my shoulder. As with all my fitness tops, I skip the bust-lining (built-on bra), as I will always wear a fitness bra underneath. I also lengthened the pattern by about 3 inches--I can 't stand having a bare midriff. I have made the tops from buttermilk fabrics, mesh, cotton. I use lingerie/picotee elastics instead of casings for the neckline and armholes--I find it much faster to sew. I have made the pants once--they were not a favorite. I think that they were too loose and shapeless. The shorts are my go-to pattern for fitness clothing--but I have lengthened them to capri length and ankle length. The shorts do not have side seams--they have front panel seams and an elastic waist. I made the shorts once, but I'm not really a shorts person. I think that that really like the design because there isn't a front crotch seam so I don't bet a camel toe when I wear them
2. Kwik Sew 3115. This pattern has been reviewed upteen million times on Pattern Review. make the yoga pants, which have a side seam, when I need a longer pair of dance pants. I've made these pants in cotton lycra and stretch velvet (luxurious!) . I have not had any success with the tops--I've made the camisole and the tank top several times . I can't get them to look good--I probably need to make a FBA, but right now it's easier to buy camisoles from Target or Costco and the Kwik Sew 2723 works for sleeveless tops.
3. Kwik Sew 3567. This is a close-fitting raglan sleeve top with side panels. When I need a fitness top with sleeves, I use this pattern. I use all sorts of stretch fabrics for this pattern: mesh, cotton lycra, rayon/poly lycra.
4. Burda 7970. My t-shirt pattern--when I need a top suitable for work, and I don't have time, I pull out this pattern. I have raised the neckline and have drafted an FBA. It fits well and I can make this pattern practically in my sleep.
5. Kwiksew 2527. I use the pattern for socks and the hat (view c). My apartment is very drafty and cold in the winter. I wear fleece socks and hats in the winter to keep warm at night. I can wear the fleece sock all winter (and surreptiously dust the floors) and toss them in the spring. If you head gets cold at night while you sleep, I recommend wearing a hat--it can make a real difference.
6. BWOF 09-2005-129. In my quest to create a TNT pants pattern, I have created a great draft for these pants. I've made 4 versions, including two that are now at Goodwill Industries. I have a comfy pair in dark grey corduroy, another pair in a grey cotton blend (with lycra) and another pair in denim. I don't have any with the fun seaming (those went to Goodwill), but I do consider this a tried and true pattern, as I would not hesitate to sew these again.
7. Jalie 2787. No, I'm not nursing. I like the criss cross top, and I like the tunic length.
8. BWOF 01-2008-116. This is a wrapover top that didn't make it into the Burda envelope patterns. I love it. I had to alter it to raise the neckline, and it has ridiculously long bands, but when I wear it, I feel like I'm being hugged.
9. BWOF 08-2006-104. This is a pullover top that I wear as a sweater. I have made this out of sweater knits, a patterned chenille, and a burnout velvet. It' s great--I can put it on over a t-shirt and it's a great new look. I think that it was available as a Burda envelope pattern, but it appears to have been dropped from the catalog. I had to scale this up from a size 44 and I was not able to raise the neckline. I'm very proud of this top, as it was one of the first Burda World of Fashion patterns that I ever made.

Interfacing sale at Fashion Sewing Supply until 12/12/09

I received a note this morning from Pam at Fashion Sewing Supply--they are dramatically overstocked and are having a warehouse sale. I do recommend this interfacing (the pro-weft fusible)--I used to use the type from JoAnn's, but this is loads better. The stuff from Fashion Sewing supply irons on smoothly and doesn't bubble (note--I didn't realize that J's was bubbling until I tried the Pro-Weft from Fashion Sewing Supply). I just restocked my interfacing supply at the beginning of November, but I may get some of Sheer Elegance. Details located here:

Fashion Sewing Supply

Utility Sewing -

This weekend was a slow sewing weekend. I let out the hems on a pair of pants I made: the grey pair is 1 inch longer. I hope that they don't shrink in length any more. I also made two tops to wear to the gym: longer sleeved versions of KwikSew 3567, made from dark mesh: one version is made from a dark brown with tiny pink dots, the other version is made from a brown and green floral mesh. I hope this helps provide more incentive for working out.

a lovely remedy for a mild malaise

I'm not posting as much as before because I'm back at work (still gainfully employed). However this morning I woke up not feeling well (feverish) so I took a sick day.

I was thinking of working on my trousers (Burda plus 02-2007-402), but I'm just not feeling it. So a lovely remedy for a mild malaise is to sew simple knit t-shirts. I've already finished Burda 7970, a simple knit t-shirt made from some black bamboo jersey/interlock that I bought from an online coop. The bamboo does not have a lot of stretch (crosswise or otherwise) but it is lovely soft. I think that I'm going to enjoy wearing it.

I've cut out another jersey top from a older Burda January 2006 (01-2006-131). It's a t-shirt with vertical seams that I've made it before (reviewed on PR). I searched my stash and I found a jersey made from some sort of synthetic: the fabric has an abstract design in purple, pink, lavender and burgundy. The colors should be nice for these cooler winter days. I'm trying to get away from wearing black all the time.

I should review Simplicity 2603 (the cardi wrap). I made another one from a light cottony/stretchy jersey in magenta that I purchased from Fabrics R Us. I purchased this fabric before I returned to work and it was so lovely that before the week was over, I drove back out to east San Jose to get more yardage in different colors ($3 a yard, outside near the parking area). My stash, now overflowing, contains yardage in lime green, chocolate brown, taupe, and black. I might use the yardage for some other t-shirt variations. We shall see.

The September Issue

It's October 1, so today was the day to see the documentary, The September Issue. It's also the last day that it's showing at a theater close to me. It's a 90 minute documentary that covers preparation of the 2007 September issue of (American) Vogue magazine. The key players in the documentary are Anna Wintour, Editor in Chief of Vogue, and Grace Coddington, the creative director at Vogue. Anna Wintour is still a bit of a cypher, but she doesn't come across as personable, just as a woman who does what she needs to get her job done. At the beginning of the documentary, one of her colleagues explains that she doesn't try to be nice or friendly to strangers. She's not as over the top as Meryl Streep's Miranda Priestly from The Devil Wears Prada. Of course, you knew why Miranda did things, but Wintour is a bit cryptic. I guess that is the difference between drama and real life.

Grace Coddington is a more memorable person--as she shares her thoughts with the documentary crew (and the audience) as she creates and styles fashion shoots. She's a former fashion model and she has an amazing ability to create different visual scenarios that highlight different fashion designs (she knows how to show the clothing!) and she produces results: lots of great pictures for editorial shots. Each one of her layouts had very strong pictures that were unfortunately edited and made shorter. The documentary is pretty funny, because Wintour wears several lovely fitted sheath dresses (I'm trying to find a pattern for the indigo and white ikat dress, with a shoulder yoke on the front and back), with heels, all the time, and Coddington is always wearing a shapeless black dress with clunky sandals.

I recommend it! I'm going to rent it when it comes out on DVD, so I can take a closer look at some of the fashions.

I'm working on my second pair of Marlene pants, and I've got some finishing touches on

BWOF 09-2005-129. I should be able to post some reviews over the weekend.

Not the day I planned

My afternoon did not go the way I wanted. I was planning to start a new pair of Marlene pants, but one of my dental appointment ran over. And over. I'll spare you the details, 3 hours in a dentist chair isn't fun and my one bit of advice is to lean over a sink when you gargle when your mouth is numbed with painkiller. After I got home, all I could think of ibuprofen and a nap.

After I recovered a bit, I did manage to trace off a copy of Burda 7774, a empire sheath dress with short sleeves. I traced the bodice according to my high bust measurement (I'm going to make an FBA) and the skirt portion according to my actual hip and body measurements. I'm making View A, which should require no more than 2 yards of fabric. I'll make a muslin tomorrow. I'm still thinking of Vogue 8555, but I need to start with one dress and see how it works out.

Marlene Dietrich Pants Burda Plus 02-2007-402

I finished another pair of pants! Burda Plus 02-2007-402 is a wide legged pair of pants with a contour waistband (Burda calls this "Marlene Dietrich style").

I'm getting pretty fast at technically sewing pants, but fitting the pants is taking as long as the actual sewing. So this pair took me about 2 days of actual sewing (probably 7-8 hours total), which includes tracing the pattern, making a muslin, a trip to the store to get matching thread for the fashion fabric, a two day rest period. I made the version without the cuffs and the creases, so I know that saved me some time. I spent this morning finishing the waistband, adjusting the fit in the back and hemming. Based on the muslin, I lengthened the front and back crotch seams (by extending the pattern pieces). When I was fitting the pants, it seems like I removed all the fabric that I added. I guess that the inseam stretched. I think that I'll have to play around with the fit on the back a bit (right now, they fit as well as any ready-to-wear LOL!), but I think that this pants pattern can be moved into my pattern repertoire. If I can get a decent picture of the back with me in it, I'll post. There are some wrinkles that could be removed, but I can't figure out what alteration to make.

I am planning on making this pattern again--this pair was made from some brushed cotton twill ("brushed cotton" = "extra lint" in the sewing machine) from my stash. It spent a relatively short time in my stash--I purchased it from an online coop in the Spring. It's a nice olive green and more of a heavyweight twill than a medium. It's definitely a casual fabric. I have some other striped (pinstripes) that will change the look a bit.

The picture above is a true depiction of the color. I'm going to have to get a real tripod and figure out a standard pose for these project photos. If I wear these with a tucked in blouse (not my usual style), I will definitely add a belt.

Here is a hanger picture of the front:

Picture of the rear (hanger)

PatternReview located here.

Trousers! Burda Plus 02-2007-402

Over these past few weeks, I've made great progress on making trousers that fit (and fit properly)! My technical skills have improved, as have my fitting skills. I'm sooo happy! I'll have a new wardrobe for work. I'm almost finished with gray BWOF 09-2005-129--I need to either add a button and buttonhole or sew on some hooks and eyes. I've decided to let this pattern rest for a while and work on a new project while I have time to pay attention to it.

After poking around PatternReview, I decided to make Burda Plus 02-2007-402. Burda Plus 02-2007-402 is a simple pair of pants: no pockets, no yokes, no cuffs, just a shaped waistband and pants pieces. It has 4 pieces (6 if you count the belt carriers and the fly shield). Last night while watching Project Runway I traced it and cut out out the muslin. Since there are so few seams, I felt it was important to check how the pieces got together and how it looks on me, I spent this morning sewing the muslin and adjusting the fit. I've become a great fan of muslins. I will have to use the 40% off coupon at J's and get a bolt of muslin, so I won't hesitate to make them. I had a hard time cutting the white cotton sateen I got at an estate sale earlier this month. Sigh.

Burda Plus 02-2007-402 Technical Drawing

Burda Plus is published twice a year--the 02-2007 issue covers Spring/Summer Fashions. The suggested fabrics are "Pants/trouser fabrics, with or without stretch blend." Right now, I'm not going to add the cuff or the crease. I'm planning on a pair in olive green twill (from Ressy's coop) and another pair in a different fabric (probably a striped mystery stretch woven from Fabrix). Even though it's a Spring pattern, I think that it will be okay in an Autumn/Winter Fabric. There's a "Say Yes to the Dress" marathon on TLC--it's ideal sewing TV.

Kanga Khanga Kikoi

The Emmy Awards took place earlier this week and a Victoria Rowell (an actress on soap operas) wore a cotton dress depicting President Barack Obama. I've noticed some discussion on blogs and sewing websites as to whether this was an appropriate dress to wear on the Red Carpet. I think that it's a bit too casual--it's made from woven cotton. But I've never been on the Red Carpet, so I'm not an expert on what to wear.

However, I recognized the fabric immediately as an East African kanga (also spelled khanga, also called a kikoi). A kanga is a type of sarong, which can be worn wrapped in a myriad of ways. Here is a delightful video of three charming Tanzanian young ladies showing how to wear kangas.

Link to How to Wear a Kanga

Link to Arkansas State Presentation by Rose Ong'oa on Kangas (heavy on photos)

Right after the presidential election, several blogs that cover African American culture had images of Obama-themed Kangas. I searched around on eBay and on East African webstores. I almost bought one or two Obama bangas but I looked at my fabric stash and I decided to hold off. When would I ever wear them, especially since I already had one in my closet as a gift from a friend. I did some more searching for more webstores selling them and I located this a store that sells a number of commemorative kangas. Currently their stock includes Michael Jackson kanga.

Simply Tanzanian webstore Barack Obama Kangas (I'm having problems linking directly to the page--please use then menu on the Simply Tanzanian page to link to 'kangas.')

I think that these garments are kind of like commemorative t-shirts, at least ones with the pictures of politicians or celebrities. Many of the other kangas have really pretty patterns--I know, because I have one (I might have two--I can't find the other one, if I got two of them).

Twenty years ago, a friend of mine went to Kenya for geological/petroleum research and she brought back several kangas as gifts. I still have one--its lovely: a large geometric pattern in black and blue on white fabric. The cotton is loosely woven, not quite a gauze. I took a quick picture (so quick that I didn't iron it :) I was using it to wrap up other fabric in storage) I don't know what it the words mean on the bottom, but I think that the language might be Swahili. According to Google Translate, it means "rua not water thirsty yishi". Hmmm. Thank you, Bonnie! It's a lovely piece of fabric!

McCall's 5857 - Shorts - Review

Pattern Description: "Easy" McCall's shorts in three lengths, with slanted side seam pockets and belt carriers

Pattern Sizing: The pattern comes in sizes 4 - 20. I used the size on the upper end of the scale.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I made view C, the longer shorts without the cuffs. Front View

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were. I didn't look at the zipper instructions and used Sandra Betzina's from the Threads website. I feel very comfortable with zipper flys now. I add the darts before I attach the waistband---this allows me to check the fit and make a decision on any alterations (e.g. taking in by changing the seam line, etc.) or taking in a dart) zipper fly detail

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? We were expecting a heatwave this week, so I decided to make some shorts to wear instead of yoga pants. If you know how to fit pants to yourself, then these are easy shorts to make. The heatwave didn't materialize, but the shorts are a great transitional garment.

Fabric Used: I made two pairs (and one muslin): one out of a brown pinstripe mystery fabric from Fabrix in SF, and the other from a blue & orange (cotton/linen & silk? or something else) mystery blend from Ressy's coop. The pictures show the blue pair of shorts. I've worn them today and I'm convinced that they have linen, because they wrinkle like linen (but they are cool). I was able to find a button out of my copious button stash.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

1) I extended the front and back crotch lines (more in the back)

2) Added about a 3/8 of a inch along the hipline on the back piece (adding width) at the waist, and added along the back center seam.

3) Widened the fly extensions by 1/2 an inch so my topstitching would definitely catch the extensions.

4) I used a special stitch on the side seams instead of a triple stitch for topstitching. pocket detail showing topstitching

5) Before adding the waistband (after most of the pieces are assembled), I tried on the garment to figure out where the darts should go.

6) I put a center back seam in the waistband (which I had to make longer).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! I would sew this again, but probably not until next spring. It's definitely a keeper. I can make these in about 6 hours, with a break before I attach the waistband.

Conclusion: I'm glad that I pulled this out of my stash to work on! These shorts will help me for the rest of the week.

McCall's 5857 - Shorts! and Future Projects

I decided to take a break from the BWOF 9-2005-129 pants because of a heat wave we are currently experiencing in the San Francisco Bay area. One item that is lacking from my wardrobe are shorts. I stopped wearing them several years ago for no particular reason. Temperatures are supposed to reach the upper nineties in the next few days (and I live on the Peninsula, so it's going to be hotter than living in SF). After spending close to three weeks away from work, I have grown tired of wearing yoga pants all the time. Note: the pants made from KwikSew 3115 or 2723 -- the shorts lengthened to capri pants. With this heatwave, shorts are a good idea.

I pulled this pattern out of my stash and I decided to make view C (the longer shorts without the cuffs). For my first pair, I tissue-fitted (re: Pants for Real People) and compared the front and back crotch lines to the Burda pants. I added inches along the front and back crotch line, grading up along the inseam. I need to find out if there is some formula about adding inches to the crotchline: if you add 1-2 inches along the crotchline, how far down do you go along the inseam? 5 inches? 6 inches? I've just been eyeballing it and guessing, but if there is a rule of thumb, I'd appreciate hearing it. I'll take another look at Real Pants for Real People to find out if I missed this detail.

I have made two pairs of shorts: one from a navy blue plaid seersucker (when I wear these, I feel like I'm stolen my dad's boxer shorts) and a brown pinstriped mystery fabric. Both are from Fabrix in SF, the plaid bought years ago. Each pair of shorts took a yard and 1/8 of 60 inch width fabric. I'm getting better at fitting--the fabric hangs very well and nothing seems to be pulling. I do need to work on fitting waistbands --I'm allowing too much length and I'm getting gaps in the back. I can wear a belt with this pattern, so practically speaking this problem is taken care of, but it's one more item that I'd like to add to my skill list.

The pattern does go together very nicely! After tracing my Burda patterns, it's very nice to be able to cut pattern tissue and not add seam allowances. I usually add seam allowances when I'm cutting out my fabric. I use shears and my cutting table is a foldable cardboard surface that I lay out on my carpet. I'll be honest, the seam allowances are probably not even. But when I use a pattern that I purchased on sale from J's, I don't have to worry about tracing or seam allowances, so it's one less thing to set this awry. In any case, the hip pockets and front hip yokes line up very well. Wow. All together it's taken be about a day to sew each pair of shorts, If I pushed it, I probably could finish one pair in day. Thanks to my experiences with different pants patterns I feel very comfortable sewing yoke pockets and doing a fly zipper. I'm so glad I have a large stash of everything.

Future projects: I want to work on is Vogue 8555, a dress (view A, with the sleeves and pegged skirt). I have several pieces of cotton sateen that would be suitable for this dress. If I choose the right fabrics and colors, I should be able to wear this into late autumn. Because of the construction, I definitely need to make a muslin.

Line Drawings below:

I also want to make BWOF 05-2009-110. I've seen several really nice versions of this top: Michelle at Cheap and Picky (see the posts from September 2009) has been working with this pattern and I have gotten some good ideas. Thank you, Michelle!

Question: if you do not have a photographer on site, how are you taking pictures of your finished garments: I can do a hanger photograph, I can put blouses and dresses on my mannequin, but pants seem to need a fashion shot. I've figured out how to use the self-timer on my camera, but the pictures seem very blah... any suggestions?

Fun Stuff that arrived in today's mail

I received the October KnipMode in today's mail! It makes up for the fact that I didn't get any Netflix DVD's (I live close enough Netflix processing center that I usually get them within 24 hours, but for some reason, I have not received three out of my four DVDs. It's very annoying).

KnipMode is a Dutch sewing magazine with the patterns inserted (similar to Burda World of Fashion/BurdaFashion). It's mailed from the Netherlands, and it's packaged very well: a large paper postal envelope: the magazines that are inserted are shrink wrapped. I don't have to worry about this enveloped getting caught in the rain.

Lots of eyecandy in the October 2009 issue, which is accompanied by two different inserts: a specials pattern insert ("Bijlage") and another one that seems to focus on home organization and decoration ("Blos"). I will enjoy perusing through these issues.

I'm still sewing BWOF 09-2005-129 pants. I've made the second pair out of corduroy. I'm attaching a copy of the line drawing. The first version I made did not have the interesting seaming (they were just plain trousers); the second version I made has the pieced together front pieces with the interesting seams. The corduroy (non-stretch) sews up differently--I have to take more time fitting, because there is no lycra to pull it back into shape. I'm almost finished: I need to hem the legs as well as (hand)sewing on the hook and eye. I had problems sewing the buttonhole on the first version because of the thickness of the denim. I remembered that I had hooks and eyes, so I decided to use that as the waistband closure. I should be done tonight!

Line Drawing

Fashion photo from Burda World of Fashion.

Muslins! or Sewing vs. Fitting

I'm learning more about the value of muslins by experience. A muslin is a test garment: it's purpose is to fit the garment to the wearer--it's not meant to be worn as "real clothing." I don't like the idea of making muslins, because it's "extra work." Well, I have learned that if I don't make a muslin, the first version of the garment is a toile by default.

I have made two versions of Simplicity 3696, the drawstring pants. The first pair is by default, a muslin. I sewed them wonderfully, but the fit was off. Even though I pin-fit the pattern paper, the finished project was too loose and baggy--they resembled pajamas, and are not suitable for work and are destined to Goodwill. In the next version, made from the same fabric (a solid color seersucker with a crosswise stretch), I took in the outside seam from the waist to the knees (in the next version, I just might cut the pattern to the smaller size on the outside seam). The difference in the fit is amazing. The waist is about 2 inches smaller, so there is less fabric bunching up on the drawstring belt, and my waist is now visible. I'll try to take some pictures and add them sometime tomorrow, so you can see the difference. The second pair, dark navy blue, are suitable for work.

I'm also revisiting the Burda World of Fashion Pants 09-2005-129. I tried making this earlier this year (without a muslin), but the fit was off. Way off. I just bagged up everthing and set it aside. I pulled this UFO (Un Finished Object) out of a pile and took a closer look at them. After I tried them on I could see that I needed to lengthen the crotch (front and back--I had to do this on Simplicity 3880, and 3696 and the wrinkles seemed to indicate this alteration). So I altered the pattern, pin fit it and it seemed better. Well, as good as swedish tracing paper can look taped together (I trace BWOF patterns without the seam allowance). And then I couldn't find any suitable muslin fabric in my stash. I swear, sometimes it's like dying of thirst while floating on a raft in the middle of the ocean.

This past weekend there was an estate sale in my hometown. Since I'm cleared for driving, I decided to attend. The estate belonged to a tailor's family and there was lots of housewares and furniture. I, of course, headed directly to the sewing area. The buttons had been picked over, but I was able to get two bolts of fabric, one of which I can use for muslins. It's a really nice creamy white cotton sateen (with a very similar hand/feel to the Catherine Ogust fabrics I got from an online coop). It might be upholstery weight (it's non-stretch, 54 inches wide) and it's almost too nice for muslins.

But I bit the bullet, measured off 2 and a half yards and cut a muslin of the BWOF-09-2009-129 pants. I was able to sew them up (no topstitching except for the front pockets, rudimentary darts, no seam finishes, unhemmed and without a zipper in the fly. Hey! it's a muslin) in less than an hour. And they fit pretty darn well. I need to lengthen the hem by about an inch so I have more freedom for alterations. Even though the muslin isn't suitable for wearing outside the workroom it looks much better than the first version which is more finished (with topstitching, installed fly zipper, etc). I'll save the muslin so that I can use it to play around with adding/fitting the waistband. I'm coming to realize that it's not extra work to make a muslin.

New Project! Simplicity 3796

I had a post-surgery appointment with my doctor today and I was able to clarify what I can and cannot do physically and why I should avoid certain moves. I'm feeling very good over all. I foresee long walks in the next few weeks, but no crunches or strenuous stuff for another 6 weeks or so (or driving for another week). And I should make certain I don't overdo anything.

The end result is that I'm clear for sewing. Yay! After returning home from having lunch with my great friend (who has been taking to me to my appointments and shopping for food) it took me about 20 minutes of sitting around before I realized I could be cutting out fabric! My first choice: Simplicity 3796, which is a pattern for drawstring pants, shorts, and skirts. I'm making View A out of mystery fabric from Happy Stop in Oakland. It's black and it's kind of a seersucker with a crosswise stretch, fiber content unknown. I washed the fabric (and a couple of other pieces) before I went on leave from work, so it's ready to go.

I'm hoping this pattern works for wearing of the next few weeks while I'm home from work. If it's not too pajama-like, I might be able to wear it to work. That all depends on the fit. A few nights ago I cut out the pattern pieces (there are about 5 of them) and tried tissue-fitting the pattern using Pants for Real People, by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto. I ended up adding to the crotch length significantly (page 29). I like this book because it has photos and drawings, so I can find a woman who's body resembles mine and I can see how the tissue pattern was fitted, and I can see what alterations were made to the pattern. It's great for when I'm comparing wrinkles in in the mirror with wrinkles in the photo in the book. I'll have further proof when how well it works when I assemble everything and try it on tomorrow morning.

Tonight I was able to cut the pattern pieces out of the fabric, sew the yokes, outside seams and sew on the patch pockets. Tomorrow morning, I will sew the inseams, crotch, and casing/drawstring--I don't want to sew them tonight as I don't want to make a mistake that I'll have to pick apart tomorrow. One change I'm making is that the pattern calls for using twill tape as the draw string--I'm going to make the drawstring out of the fashion fabric, probably with an elastic extension in the back.

I'm so glad that the sewing drought is over! I'm ready to watch Project Runway and the Model show tonight. I feel like I'm moving forward!

On being an Invalid or on Recovering

This past Wednesday I had an abdominal myomectomy. It went very well--the anesthesia was great--I don't remember a thing and my doctor/surgeon tells me that I have very tight ab muscles. I guess that all that belly dancing does pay off! :) If you run a google or blog search for myomectomy, you can find a number of myomectomy recovery blogs--I read a lot of them will preparing for my post-hospital experience. I'm only 4 days post-op, but I seem to be doing well. While this blog will not turn into a recovery blog, I do have some advice.

1) Strength train your arms and legs, you will need your arm and leg muscles to get in and out of bed and to maneuver around (e.g getting in and out of bed, chairs, etc). Push ups and squats--do multiple reps during the day. Before this operation, I never knew if my lower abdominal muscles were working; now I do know when I use them. When transitioning from standing to sitting, there is a point when my abs would like to work a LOT (I'm reminded of this mostly on when I wake up in the morning). Right now to get upright, I concentrate by using my arms (to push myself up) and my thighs.

2) I can use my upper abs, obliques, glutes, psoas. The incision and (internal) stitches are located in the lower abs. When I'm walking or standing, I tilt my butt down in the back, so that my abdominal muscles are not stretched out (they are kind of contracted). It makes it easier and less painful. Posture really does make a difference!

3) I'm wearing an abdominal binder. I have a horizontal incision, just above the hairline. I think that eventually that the scar will be hidden/less visible in fold in the skin. I'm no lightweight, so I do have a bit of a pooch. When I put on the binder, I pull up the pooch with my hand so that the incision is flat and not hidden in the fold. I think that this is helping with the healing--less stress on the incision.

4) I stocked my fridge with yogurt, prunes, sparkling water, OJ. Its easy to open a carton of yogurt and eat it when I'm hungry. Or to have a small glass of juice with an iron pill. My friends are keeping my stocked with fresh fruit. My freezer has lots of frozen dinners and I have my friends and neighbors on speed dial. I also move my cell phone/blackberry chargers to an easy location--I have a landing spot near my front door so I can get stuff charged easily.

5) Hospital stay--I'm glad I bought my ipod, blackberry, cell phone, lip balm, several magazines. I used my ipod to listen to music while falling asleep (I shared a room), blackberry to respond to some work emails, but mostly to read newspaper websites while bored on painkillers, lip balm to moisturize my lips which got amazingly dry, and magazines--the articles were short enough to hold my attention (Vanity Fair, Threads (including several older issues)). In my hospital bag--all the stuff I didn't need: I packed pajamas, granny underwear (1 size larger than normal), lotion, soap, toothbrush, etc, stuff you pack when you travel. When I left, I wore the clothing I wore to the hospital. I did need the granny underwear, but not while in the hospital.

6) See if you can get your prescriptions filled before your surgery. I was able to get my painkiller prescriptions filled before the surgery. I had them placed on a tray, with my regular prescriptions, thermometer, notepad and pen (to note times when I took pills).

7) I can't life anything over 10 lbs. Sigh. I can't wait until my post-surgery visit.

Sewing slow

I'm sewing slowly this week--I did sew a Simplicity 2603 cardi-wrap in red cotton-cotton lycra. The fabric is a bit too heavy for the pattern--the red wrap does not drape very well. 2603 has has a very wide neckline. So in my next version, out of a gray poly-rayon-mystery fabric from Fabrics R Us, I have made the neckline 2 inches narrower.

Reasons for not blogging as much: I'm busy at work. And I've gotten some new furniture--a couch, coffee table and side table. My apartment is looking very grown up, with a style that is beyond graduate student (which I'm more than 10 years beyond). The couch is perfectly placed, across the room from the TV, with the coffee table in easy reach, along with all the remote controls (TV,cable, VCR, DVD player.).

Simplicity 3684 Threads Blouse

When I'm not re-arranging my apartment, I'm working on a new project - Simplicity 3684, the Threads Blouse. This pattern has the different cup sizes so I don't have to do a FBA. I'm using some white stretch poplin (I think that it's poplin) that I got at a BABES meeting (thank you, Georgene!). It's kind of a muslin, as I'm still learning how to sew wovens: I'll have to make a collar, cuffs, and a button placket. The back also features long darts for shaping. My work wardrobe needs more woven shirts. A plain white shirt will fit in nicely and I have several fabric pieces in the my stash that will make great shirts. Are the solid colors? Only a few of them....

Oh, I added a label cloud using these instructions .

Stash Stash Stash STACTCed

Where has summer gone? It's been a long time since I've posted--I missed posting entries in all of June and July. I'm still here. I've done some sewing: mostly fitness stuff and workout clothing. But my next major project is to re-arrange my apartment for two reasons. Here is the main one: my fabric/sewing/notions/patterns stash has grown out of control.

Last summer when I was trying to deal with stuff at work, I would visit estate sales looking for sewing notions and fabrics. I did very well: I got one of those accordion buttonhole measuring tools (I can't find it!) , lots of tracing tools, seam rippers, books, lots bias binding and rick rack and ribbons, loads of buttons, zippers (got an amazing selection from someone who used to work at a sewing/fabric store) and lots of vintage patterns. I also got into the habit of buying patterns at the pattern sales at Joann's and Hancock's. Fabrics--well that stash grew: the bricks and mortar stores/jobbers of Happy Stop in Oakland, Fabrics r Us in San Jose, Fabrix in San Francisco (and Discount Fabrics, and Darlene's in the Mission). And representing the online vendors: Gorgeous Fabrics, Michael's, Fashionista Fabrics, Ressy's coop, Lucy's, and FabricMart. After arranging stuff on the shelving, I was quite overwhelmed when I would enter my apartment. It was time to do something.

In July, I went to Ikea and bought the Anabode chest of drawers. This piece of furniture has been making appearances on a variety of different sewing blogs, literally around the world. After assembling it, I was able to fit in all my modern patterns, but very few of the vintage ones. The Anabode drawers are quite full. Later that month, I scored some discarded shelving from work and I decided to re-arrange my fabric stash, which quite overflowed the shelves. And I realized that I own a LOT of fabric. Now that I can see it on open shelves, I have a pretty good idea of how much I have, and in which colors. It's a lot of fabric. While it's daunting to realize that I have hoarded a lot of stuff. I think that this has gone beyond stashing to hoarding, because I'm not sewing as much as I feel I should. I have achieved Stash Accumulation Beyond Current Time Commitments ( which is abbreviated to "STACTC ". So is that stacked ? ). So no more purchasing until the end of the year. I think that the only exception that I can allow is thread.

The other reason I'm re-arranging stuff is that I'm getting a couch. Its being delivered Saturday morning. I used to have a futon couch for several years after I left grad school. About 5 years ago, I free-cycled it because I was tired of it, and I've been couchless every since. No easy chairs, either. Everything that hasn't been arranged has been shoved into random spaces so that the couch can be moved in. After the couch is here, then I can sort out more stuff and figure out which stuff is going away. It's going to be a fun weekend. :)

Jalie 2787 and onto trousers!

I decided to take a break from pants and sew something easy.  Well, relatively easy for me: a knit top!  I selected Jalie 2787, women's criss-cross top, in the 3/4 sleeve version.  I traced out the pattern one evening, then sewed it a few nights later.  It went together very quickly--I cut it out and assembled all in one evening.  I like the fit, I like the drapes--there is enough drape in the bodice top that my it fits well, not too tight or too loose.  The pattern is designed that it can be used by nursing moms--uhh, not my situation, but that's not apparent to anyone but the wearer.   I selected a lovely black and white floral jersey with a bit of sparkle that was gifted to me at the last BABES meeting--thank you, Georgene!  I'll try to take pics this weekend.  I'm already planning on making it again. 

Tonight I traced out an old BWOF pattern from the plus section of September 2005, #129 . Here is the BWOF-September-129  technical drawing.   Earlier this year, I purchased some Knip XL issues.  I saw a very similar pattern for cargo pants, that features the curved insert on the front leg, as well as lots of pockets.   I really liked them and my original plan was to puzzle though the Dutch instructions as well as stretching my sewing skills.   Of course, I am at the beginning side of the learning curve for sewing trousers,  so I decided to hone my skills with an English language pattern.   When I came across this pattern, I decided that I'll start with this one.  I have this one traced, and I'll flat pattern measure it (thank you for the suggestion, Mary Beth!).   I think that the BWOF trousers are more fitted/less baggy, and I'll skip the extra pockets until I get a great fit.   

Well, we'll see what happens.  :)