Not the day I planned

My afternoon did not go the way I wanted. I was planning to start a new pair of Marlene pants, but one of my dental appointment ran over. And over. I'll spare you the details, 3 hours in a dentist chair isn't fun and my one bit of advice is to lean over a sink when you gargle when your mouth is numbed with painkiller. After I got home, all I could think of ibuprofen and a nap.

After I recovered a bit, I did manage to trace off a copy of Burda 7774, a empire sheath dress with short sleeves. I traced the bodice according to my high bust measurement (I'm going to make an FBA) and the skirt portion according to my actual hip and body measurements. I'm making View A, which should require no more than 2 yards of fabric. I'll make a muslin tomorrow. I'm still thinking of Vogue 8555, but I need to start with one dress and see how it works out.

Marlene Dietrich Pants Burda Plus 02-2007-402

I finished another pair of pants! Burda Plus 02-2007-402 is a wide legged pair of pants with a contour waistband (Burda calls this "Marlene Dietrich style").

I'm getting pretty fast at technically sewing pants, but fitting the pants is taking as long as the actual sewing. So this pair took me about 2 days of actual sewing (probably 7-8 hours total), which includes tracing the pattern, making a muslin, a trip to the store to get matching thread for the fashion fabric, a two day rest period. I made the version without the cuffs and the creases, so I know that saved me some time. I spent this morning finishing the waistband, adjusting the fit in the back and hemming. Based on the muslin, I lengthened the front and back crotch seams (by extending the pattern pieces). When I was fitting the pants, it seems like I removed all the fabric that I added. I guess that the inseam stretched. I think that I'll have to play around with the fit on the back a bit (right now, they fit as well as any ready-to-wear LOL!), but I think that this pants pattern can be moved into my pattern repertoire. If I can get a decent picture of the back with me in it, I'll post. There are some wrinkles that could be removed, but I can't figure out what alteration to make.

I am planning on making this pattern again--this pair was made from some brushed cotton twill ("brushed cotton" = "extra lint" in the sewing machine) from my stash. It spent a relatively short time in my stash--I purchased it from an online coop in the Spring. It's a nice olive green and more of a heavyweight twill than a medium. It's definitely a casual fabric. I have some other striped (pinstripes) that will change the look a bit.

The picture above is a true depiction of the color. I'm going to have to get a real tripod and figure out a standard pose for these project photos. If I wear these with a tucked in blouse (not my usual style), I will definitely add a belt.

Here is a hanger picture of the front:

Picture of the rear (hanger)

PatternReview located here.

No Sewing on Saturday or Sunday

Yesterday I got together with several Bay Area sewers (members of BABES from "Bay Area Bash Expressly for Sewists") at Cañada college's Artistry in Fashion event. It was a frightfully hot day, and I arrived sometime after 10:00. I was only able to stay for a short time, but I saw the independent fashion designer fashion show, featuring La Fred, Decades of Style and Loes Hinse. Each designer was able to show 10 different outfits and discuss their design principles, inspirations, etc. Afterwards, Lisa, Irene and I went sales room where the designers were selling their patterns (way beyond the the art to wear sales tables--lots of yummy stuff there) and tried on different garments made up from the outfits. That was really fun-it was great to see if a garment works on different body types, etc. I ended up buying 4 patterns, more that I expected, but I think that I'll enjoy them. From La Fred, I purchased the Daphne Pant and the Maia Jacket. And from Decades of Style, I purchased the 1931 Lily Jacket pattern (# 3006) and the 1950's Diamond Dress (#5002).

I forgot to allow time to look at the student displays. They had a re-cycle/re-use competition--I'm sure the results were great. I did wander through the art to wear tables--there was a lot of cool stuff, but a lot of it was very arty, not what I would like to wear to work. As I was leaving, I did come across another room with sales tables. I will have to allow more time next year.

After this event, I went to two cultural club meeting and then a barbecue. I didn't get home until close 10:30. I'm exhausted. I was happy to see the new Burda World of Fashion (October 2009) issue in my mailbox, as well as the two missing Netflix DVDs. I had given up on ever seeing those discs and had reported them missed last week. Well, back into the mail they go. The new BWOF has some great patterns. I'll also try to finish the olive green pants--I just have the waistband and the hems. More later. I'm recovering today and tonight is Mad Men.

Trousers! Burda Plus 02-2007-402

Over these past few weeks, I've made great progress on making trousers that fit (and fit properly)! My technical skills have improved, as have my fitting skills. I'm sooo happy! I'll have a new wardrobe for work. I'm almost finished with gray BWOF 09-2005-129--I need to either add a button and buttonhole or sew on some hooks and eyes. I've decided to let this pattern rest for a while and work on a new project while I have time to pay attention to it.

After poking around PatternReview, I decided to make Burda Plus 02-2007-402. Burda Plus 02-2007-402 is a simple pair of pants: no pockets, no yokes, no cuffs, just a shaped waistband and pants pieces. It has 4 pieces (6 if you count the belt carriers and the fly shield). Last night while watching Project Runway I traced it and cut out out the muslin. Since there are so few seams, I felt it was important to check how the pieces got together and how it looks on me, I spent this morning sewing the muslin and adjusting the fit. I've become a great fan of muslins. I will have to use the 40% off coupon at J's and get a bolt of muslin, so I won't hesitate to make them. I had a hard time cutting the white cotton sateen I got at an estate sale earlier this month. Sigh.

Burda Plus 02-2007-402 Technical Drawing

Burda Plus is published twice a year--the 02-2007 issue covers Spring/Summer Fashions. The suggested fabrics are "Pants/trouser fabrics, with or without stretch blend." Right now, I'm not going to add the cuff or the crease. I'm planning on a pair in olive green twill (from Ressy's coop) and another pair in a different fabric (probably a striped mystery stretch woven from Fabrix). Even though it's a Spring pattern, I think that it will be okay in an Autumn/Winter Fabric. There's a "Say Yes to the Dress" marathon on TLC--it's ideal sewing TV.

Kanga Khanga Kikoi

The Emmy Awards took place earlier this week and a Victoria Rowell (an actress on soap operas) wore a cotton dress depicting President Barack Obama. I've noticed some discussion on blogs and sewing websites as to whether this was an appropriate dress to wear on the Red Carpet. I think that it's a bit too casual--it's made from woven cotton. But I've never been on the Red Carpet, so I'm not an expert on what to wear.

However, I recognized the fabric immediately as an East African kanga (also spelled khanga, also called a kikoi). A kanga is a type of sarong, which can be worn wrapped in a myriad of ways. Here is a delightful video of three charming Tanzanian young ladies showing how to wear kangas.

Link to How to Wear a Kanga

Link to Arkansas State Presentation by Rose Ong'oa on Kangas (heavy on photos)

Right after the presidential election, several blogs that cover African American culture had images of Obama-themed Kangas. I searched around on eBay and on East African webstores. I almost bought one or two Obama bangas but I looked at my fabric stash and I decided to hold off. When would I ever wear them, especially since I already had one in my closet as a gift from a friend. I did some more searching for more webstores selling them and I located this a store that sells a number of commemorative kangas. Currently their stock includes Michael Jackson kanga.

Simply Tanzanian webstore Barack Obama Kangas (I'm having problems linking directly to the page--please use then menu on the Simply Tanzanian page to link to 'kangas.')

I think that these garments are kind of like commemorative t-shirts, at least ones with the pictures of politicians or celebrities. Many of the other kangas have really pretty patterns--I know, because I have one (I might have two--I can't find the other one, if I got two of them).

Twenty years ago, a friend of mine went to Kenya for geological/petroleum research and she brought back several kangas as gifts. I still have one--its lovely: a large geometric pattern in black and blue on white fabric. The cotton is loosely woven, not quite a gauze. I took a quick picture (so quick that I didn't iron it :) I was using it to wrap up other fabric in storage) I don't know what it the words mean on the bottom, but I think that the language might be Swahili. According to Google Translate, it means "rua not water thirsty yishi". Hmmm. Thank you, Bonnie! It's a lovely piece of fabric!

McCall's 5857 - Shorts - Review

Pattern Description: "Easy" McCall's shorts in three lengths, with slanted side seam pockets and belt carriers

Pattern Sizing: The pattern comes in sizes 4 - 20. I used the size on the upper end of the scale.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I made view C, the longer shorts without the cuffs. Front View

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they were. I didn't look at the zipper instructions and used Sandra Betzina's from the Threads website. I feel very comfortable with zipper flys now. I add the darts before I attach the waistband---this allows me to check the fit and make a decision on any alterations (e.g. taking in by changing the seam line, etc.) or taking in a dart) zipper fly detail

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? We were expecting a heatwave this week, so I decided to make some shorts to wear instead of yoga pants. If you know how to fit pants to yourself, then these are easy shorts to make. The heatwave didn't materialize, but the shorts are a great transitional garment.

Fabric Used: I made two pairs (and one muslin): one out of a brown pinstripe mystery fabric from Fabrix in SF, and the other from a blue & orange (cotton/linen & silk? or something else) mystery blend from Ressy's coop. The pictures show the blue pair of shorts. I've worn them today and I'm convinced that they have linen, because they wrinkle like linen (but they are cool). I was able to find a button out of my copious button stash.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:

1) I extended the front and back crotch lines (more in the back)

2) Added about a 3/8 of a inch along the hipline on the back piece (adding width) at the waist, and added along the back center seam.

3) Widened the fly extensions by 1/2 an inch so my topstitching would definitely catch the extensions.

4) I used a special stitch on the side seams instead of a triple stitch for topstitching. pocket detail showing topstitching

5) Before adding the waistband (after most of the pieces are assembled), I tried on the garment to figure out where the darts should go.

6) I put a center back seam in the waistband (which I had to make longer).

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes! I would sew this again, but probably not until next spring. It's definitely a keeper. I can make these in about 6 hours, with a break before I attach the waistband.

Conclusion: I'm glad that I pulled this out of my stash to work on! These shorts will help me for the rest of the week.

McCall's 5857 - Shorts! and Future Projects

I decided to take a break from the BWOF 9-2005-129 pants because of a heat wave we are currently experiencing in the San Francisco Bay area. One item that is lacking from my wardrobe are shorts. I stopped wearing them several years ago for no particular reason. Temperatures are supposed to reach the upper nineties in the next few days (and I live on the Peninsula, so it's going to be hotter than living in SF). After spending close to three weeks away from work, I have grown tired of wearing yoga pants all the time. Note: the pants made from KwikSew 3115 or 2723 -- the shorts lengthened to capri pants. With this heatwave, shorts are a good idea.

I pulled this pattern out of my stash and I decided to make view C (the longer shorts without the cuffs). For my first pair, I tissue-fitted (re: Pants for Real People) and compared the front and back crotch lines to the Burda pants. I added inches along the front and back crotch line, grading up along the inseam. I need to find out if there is some formula about adding inches to the crotchline: if you add 1-2 inches along the crotchline, how far down do you go along the inseam? 5 inches? 6 inches? I've just been eyeballing it and guessing, but if there is a rule of thumb, I'd appreciate hearing it. I'll take another look at Real Pants for Real People to find out if I missed this detail.

I have made two pairs of shorts: one from a navy blue plaid seersucker (when I wear these, I feel like I'm stolen my dad's boxer shorts) and a brown pinstriped mystery fabric. Both are from Fabrix in SF, the plaid bought years ago. Each pair of shorts took a yard and 1/8 of 60 inch width fabric. I'm getting better at fitting--the fabric hangs very well and nothing seems to be pulling. I do need to work on fitting waistbands --I'm allowing too much length and I'm getting gaps in the back. I can wear a belt with this pattern, so practically speaking this problem is taken care of, but it's one more item that I'd like to add to my skill list.

The pattern does go together very nicely! After tracing my Burda patterns, it's very nice to be able to cut pattern tissue and not add seam allowances. I usually add seam allowances when I'm cutting out my fabric. I use shears and my cutting table is a foldable cardboard surface that I lay out on my carpet. I'll be honest, the seam allowances are probably not even. But when I use a pattern that I purchased on sale from J's, I don't have to worry about tracing or seam allowances, so it's one less thing to set this awry. In any case, the hip pockets and front hip yokes line up very well. Wow. All together it's taken be about a day to sew each pair of shorts, If I pushed it, I probably could finish one pair in day. Thanks to my experiences with different pants patterns I feel very comfortable sewing yoke pockets and doing a fly zipper. I'm so glad I have a large stash of everything.

Future projects: I want to work on is Vogue 8555, a dress (view A, with the sleeves and pegged skirt). I have several pieces of cotton sateen that would be suitable for this dress. If I choose the right fabrics and colors, I should be able to wear this into late autumn. Because of the construction, I definitely need to make a muslin.

Line Drawings below:

I also want to make BWOF 05-2009-110. I've seen several really nice versions of this top: Michelle at Cheap and Picky (see the posts from September 2009) has been working with this pattern and I have gotten some good ideas. Thank you, Michelle!

Question: if you do not have a photographer on site, how are you taking pictures of your finished garments: I can do a hanger photograph, I can put blouses and dresses on my mannequin, but pants seem to need a fashion shot. I've figured out how to use the self-timer on my camera, but the pictures seem very blah... any suggestions?

Fun Stuff that arrived in today's mail

I received the October KnipMode in today's mail! It makes up for the fact that I didn't get any Netflix DVD's (I live close enough Netflix processing center that I usually get them within 24 hours, but for some reason, I have not received three out of my four DVDs. It's very annoying).

KnipMode is a Dutch sewing magazine with the patterns inserted (similar to Burda World of Fashion/BurdaFashion). It's mailed from the Netherlands, and it's packaged very well: a large paper postal envelope: the magazines that are inserted are shrink wrapped. I don't have to worry about this enveloped getting caught in the rain.

Lots of eyecandy in the October 2009 issue, which is accompanied by two different inserts: a specials pattern insert ("Bijlage") and another one that seems to focus on home organization and decoration ("Blos"). I will enjoy perusing through these issues.

I'm still sewing BWOF 09-2005-129 pants. I've made the second pair out of corduroy. I'm attaching a copy of the line drawing. The first version I made did not have the interesting seaming (they were just plain trousers); the second version I made has the pieced together front pieces with the interesting seams. The corduroy (non-stretch) sews up differently--I have to take more time fitting, because there is no lycra to pull it back into shape. I'm almost finished: I need to hem the legs as well as (hand)sewing on the hook and eye. I had problems sewing the buttonhole on the first version because of the thickness of the denim. I remembered that I had hooks and eyes, so I decided to use that as the waistband closure. I should be done tonight!

Line Drawing

Fashion photo from Burda World of Fashion.

Muslins! or Sewing vs. Fitting

I'm learning more about the value of muslins by experience. A muslin is a test garment: it's purpose is to fit the garment to the wearer--it's not meant to be worn as "real clothing." I don't like the idea of making muslins, because it's "extra work." Well, I have learned that if I don't make a muslin, the first version of the garment is a toile by default.

I have made two versions of Simplicity 3696, the drawstring pants. The first pair is by default, a muslin. I sewed them wonderfully, but the fit was off. Even though I pin-fit the pattern paper, the finished project was too loose and baggy--they resembled pajamas, and are not suitable for work and are destined to Goodwill. In the next version, made from the same fabric (a solid color seersucker with a crosswise stretch), I took in the outside seam from the waist to the knees (in the next version, I just might cut the pattern to the smaller size on the outside seam). The difference in the fit is amazing. The waist is about 2 inches smaller, so there is less fabric bunching up on the drawstring belt, and my waist is now visible. I'll try to take some pictures and add them sometime tomorrow, so you can see the difference. The second pair, dark navy blue, are suitable for work.

I'm also revisiting the Burda World of Fashion Pants 09-2005-129. I tried making this earlier this year (without a muslin), but the fit was off. Way off. I just bagged up everthing and set it aside. I pulled this UFO (Un Finished Object) out of a pile and took a closer look at them. After I tried them on I could see that I needed to lengthen the crotch (front and back--I had to do this on Simplicity 3880, and 3696 and the wrinkles seemed to indicate this alteration). So I altered the pattern, pin fit it and it seemed better. Well, as good as swedish tracing paper can look taped together (I trace BWOF patterns without the seam allowance). And then I couldn't find any suitable muslin fabric in my stash. I swear, sometimes it's like dying of thirst while floating on a raft in the middle of the ocean.

This past weekend there was an estate sale in my hometown. Since I'm cleared for driving, I decided to attend. The estate belonged to a tailor's family and there was lots of housewares and furniture. I, of course, headed directly to the sewing area. The buttons had been picked over, but I was able to get two bolts of fabric, one of which I can use for muslins. It's a really nice creamy white cotton sateen (with a very similar hand/feel to the Catherine Ogust fabrics I got from an online coop). It might be upholstery weight (it's non-stretch, 54 inches wide) and it's almost too nice for muslins.

But I bit the bullet, measured off 2 and a half yards and cut a muslin of the BWOF-09-2009-129 pants. I was able to sew them up (no topstitching except for the front pockets, rudimentary darts, no seam finishes, unhemmed and without a zipper in the fly. Hey! it's a muslin) in less than an hour. And they fit pretty darn well. I need to lengthen the hem by about an inch so I have more freedom for alterations. Even though the muslin isn't suitable for wearing outside the workroom it looks much better than the first version which is more finished (with topstitching, installed fly zipper, etc). I'll save the muslin so that I can use it to play around with adding/fitting the waistband. I'm coming to realize that it's not extra work to make a muslin.

New Project! Simplicity 3796

I had a post-surgery appointment with my doctor today and I was able to clarify what I can and cannot do physically and why I should avoid certain moves. I'm feeling very good over all. I foresee long walks in the next few weeks, but no crunches or strenuous stuff for another 6 weeks or so (or driving for another week). And I should make certain I don't overdo anything.

The end result is that I'm clear for sewing. Yay! After returning home from having lunch with my great friend (who has been taking to me to my appointments and shopping for food) it took me about 20 minutes of sitting around before I realized I could be cutting out fabric! My first choice: Simplicity 3796, which is a pattern for drawstring pants, shorts, and skirts. I'm making View A out of mystery fabric from Happy Stop in Oakland. It's black and it's kind of a seersucker with a crosswise stretch, fiber content unknown. I washed the fabric (and a couple of other pieces) before I went on leave from work, so it's ready to go.

I'm hoping this pattern works for wearing of the next few weeks while I'm home from work. If it's not too pajama-like, I might be able to wear it to work. That all depends on the fit. A few nights ago I cut out the pattern pieces (there are about 5 of them) and tried tissue-fitting the pattern using Pants for Real People, by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto. I ended up adding to the crotch length significantly (page 29). I like this book because it has photos and drawings, so I can find a woman who's body resembles mine and I can see how the tissue pattern was fitted, and I can see what alterations were made to the pattern. It's great for when I'm comparing wrinkles in in the mirror with wrinkles in the photo in the book. I'll have further proof when how well it works when I assemble everything and try it on tomorrow morning.

Tonight I was able to cut the pattern pieces out of the fabric, sew the yokes, outside seams and sew on the patch pockets. Tomorrow morning, I will sew the inseams, crotch, and casing/drawstring--I don't want to sew them tonight as I don't want to make a mistake that I'll have to pick apart tomorrow. One change I'm making is that the pattern calls for using twill tape as the draw string--I'm going to make the drawstring out of the fashion fabric, probably with an elastic extension in the back.

I'm so glad that the sewing drought is over! I'm ready to watch Project Runway and the Model show tonight. I feel like I'm moving forward!