Jalie 2562 Polo shirt transformed into Balady dress

Bellydancing is one of my hobbies. There are many different styles of Egyptian bellydance style costumes.* Many people are the familiar with the two piece bra and belt sets which are fabulously embellished with beads, sequins, coins (in any combination), the lycra dance dresses embellished with sequins and gems, and the many various folkloric styles associated with the different regions and cities of Egypt and other parts of the Middle East. When I can, I try to make simpler costumes so that I can have something fun, pretty, and new to wear when I perform.

Important things about costumes: the dancer should feel comfortable and confident in her costume. The costume should feel secure, she should feel that it's flattering and it should not be constricting. The costume should show movement and it should be respectful of the audience. While I'm using the word 'she,' these guidelines really apply to both men and women.

I like to make a fun costume, a long simple dress, which is commonly called a balady dress. There are a lot of different versions of balady dresses: some of very fitted, some are looser (and very much resemble a galabaya), some dresses are beaded, some are sequined. Nothing, not body parts nor underwear, should be unintentionally displayed (it will distract the audience). There is really no limit to what you can do. The one thing they have in common is that the midriff is covered (the fabric might be transparent, though! :) Just because you are covered up, doesn't mean that you cannot be a little naughty! LOL).

I start with Jalie 2562, a pattern for a polo shirt. The pattern features with a self-fabric collar and collar stand, open placket, side vents and cap or three-quarter sleeves. Several years ago, another dancer, Danidance from Bhuz.com, brought this pattern to my attention. Look for a pattern designed for a jersey/knit (e.g. designed for fabric that stretches, rather than a woven fabric), and look a placket, which will help with the collar. If you cannot get a hold of Jalie 2562, you can look for another pattern. My suggestions Kwik Sew 3532, 3059, (polo shirt patterns) might be helpful. I haven't sewn these patterns so I can't vouch for them, but I have had good experiences with the instructions in other Kwik Sew patterns. I think that the placket is the significant feature of the dress. If you are comfortable with it, you probably could start with a plain t-shirt pattern and add a placket using instructions from a sewing instruction book.

I use vibrantly patterned two-way stretch jersey fabric (four-way stretch will work, too) so I don't have to spend time embroidering and adding sequins. Make certain that the greatest amount of stretch will go around your body, not up and down. I choose vibrant colored stretch fabrics because it's for a costume. Demure and tasteful doesn't always work for costumes--don't be afraid to look at the shiny, fabrics that feature metallics or sequins (be wary of glitter dot fabric. It's a bear to sew. Pick up some Sewer's Aid and a packet of needles when you buy the fabric. Here are some more glitter dot sewing tips from Dina Lydia and more tips from Davina). I select stretchy fabrics decorated with prints, because I don't have the patience for adding sequins, beads, etc... When selecting a fabric decorated with a pattern, make certain that the pattern will run the right way when it is place against your body.

My pattern alterations for a balady dress include:

1. Lengthening the pattern to floor length (add 1-2 inches more than you think, because it's easier to cut a skirt that is too long than to alter a skirt that is too short.
2. Deepening the neckline (to tastefully display my lovely decolletage).
3. Eliminating the stand-up collar. Because I've eliminated the collar, I've added a collar band on the back piece. The collar band connects to the plackets at the shoulder seams
4. Altering the sleeves to a flattering length (usually somewhere between my elbow and shoulder).
5. Taking in the side seams, especially at waist. I like my balady dresses to be more fitted rather than loose. The Jalie polo shirt pattern has regular ease built in--it's designed to wear on the street and in the office, not to wear on the stage, so it has a looser fit. In the end, I alter the side seams significantly, taking in about as much as 1 inch on each seam (e.g, 4 inches). Your mileage may vary.
6. I accessorize the costume with a firm cup store-bought plunge-neckline bra, which I may cover with coordinating costume fabric. I'll cover the bra with costume fabric if the bra shows--the dancer shouldn't look like she is unintentionally dancing in her underwear. She shouldn't flash the audience either, so a bra is required!
7. I also make a headbands and ankle bands from the leftover fabric.
8. Store any extra fabric with your costume. I save larger pieces of fabric in case I want to make alterations or to make another costume piece. I try to save 1 large random fabric scrap that has all the fabric's colors in it so I can use bring it with me when I'm looking for accessories.

When performing, I use different hip wraps (Egyptian beaded scarves, sequin scarfs, or any combination). This basic design can be altered by adding one or two slits along the legs. The slits can be along the side seams or you can cut a new one in front of one of the legs. Chiffon drapes can be added at the slits and sleeves if you like.

Some more suggestions:

1. When you are making the costume for the first time, make a muslin (test garment). Use a fabric that has similar characteristics to your fashion fabric. You can use the muslin to check the fit, and the sewing techniques. It will not be a waste of time.
2. Before you cut your fabric, lay out the pattern pieces so that the fabrics greatest amount of stretch goes around your body, not lengthwise (not up and down). Make certain that any motifs or patterns on the fabric will land on a flattering place on your body (e.g. the stripes are running up and down).
3. Accept the fact that you will become friends with your seam ripper, which you can use to delicately remove threads so you can try again.
4. Use a ballpoint needle designed for knit or jersey. Use the special tips and hints if you are using glitter dot.
5. Vacuum out your sewing machine (especially around the bobbin case) after you finish your dress, especially if your fabric has glitter on it.

*Note--Egyptian dance is just one slice of the bellydance scene-there is just so much variety, that I can't discuss it all in one post.

Happy New Year!

I want to wish health and happiness to everyone in 2011. I think that it's been a tough year on many levels.

I have been spending the past few weeks working and recovering from the cough that I caught in Egypt. I'm mobile and able to go into work, but dang, when I start coughing, everything stops for about 5 minutes.

I've spent this afternoon re-organizing some of my fabric stash and trying to sort out fabric that I'm not going to use and that I should donate/trade/gift. I'm going to do the same thing with my clothing. I just have too much fabric in my apartment. I'm participating in PatternReview's Stash contest, so I need to clear out space for new garments in my closets and drawers. I have several TNT patterns for tops that will work nicely, including the BurdaStyle 9-2010-121 turtleneck that I managed to trace off and sew earlier this week. Since I can make these patterns over and over again, I should take the opportunity to clear out tops that I no longer wear.

The massive amounts of sewing related stuff are making me feel uncomfortable and I'm glad that I'm sorting through things. Last night I went through and organized my sewing magazines (Burda, Knip, Threads) to clear out some space. I managed to pull out my UFO's (Un - Finished Objects) from under my sewing table (when I reached a stopping point on the project, I put it in a 3-4 gallon ziplock bag and tossed it under the table. Out of sight= out of mind). I seem to have more trousers projects than I remember.

I'm not buying any more fabric until I go to Los Angeles in March (fingers crossed that my plans work out). I did manage to buy some more fabric for Christmas New Year's presents for my coworkers, as well as a quick trip to Fabrics R Us in San Jose for garment fabric. I'm was sad to realize that Fabrics R Us has consolidated to two storefronts, instead of the three that I'm accustomed to seeing. I worry about the fabric stores and vendors--I am seeing more sales announced more frequently: I sense more tough times ahead. I hope that my friends and colleagues remain in business.

My goals? To consume what I purchase (to reduce on stashing--if I can purchase it once, then I can purchase it again. I don't need to buy it all at once); to take a worldview on events (to look at things from a perspective more widely than my own); and to take pleasure in simple things.

Also, if I'd appreciate it if I could find the key to my storage unit, so I can put my luggage away. :)

Thank goodness for UFO's and TNT's

I'm leaving on Sunday, travelling to warmer place and I've sewing at least 1 garment a day. I can only do this because I'm sewing TNT patterns (TNT = Tried and True). Sewing TNTs means that I don't have to make a muslin of a new pattern. I don't like the actual physical process of making a muslin (practice garment), but I appreciate why I should make one. If I don't make a muslin, the first version of the garment that I sew turns out to be a muslin.

I've sewn two bamboo knit jersey (purchased from a coop) Burda t-shirt: one brown, one white, both with three-quarter sleeves. These should work for simple casual everyday clothing. I have used at least 3 yards from my stash. I'm sooo happy!

One of the events I'm attending recommends that I pack a garment suitable for a cocktail party (well, that's how I'm reading the event description). I rarely wear cocktail dresses, I don't go to church, so I don't have a lot of dressy clothing. I live in the capital of business casual, so I'm went through my closet and tried to find some separates that might work. I found a somewhat boho skirt: it's a wraparound skirt made from a shiny pink wine colored skirt with what appears to be a sheer black sari overlay. I was going through my fabric stash to locate a suitable black fabric for a dressy-tshirt top, when I found a UFO (un finished object): a Vogue dress, 8386 (now out of print). About 2 years ago, I started to make this for an event that in the midst of sewing, I decided not to attend. I made view B, in a thin sparkly black knit (fiber content unknown) purchased from Simon at Happy Stop ($2 a yard!) in Oakland. I think that it's go the right amount of glamour.

When I stopped, I had assembled the bodice (the bodice was the most technically challenging part of the dress) and the dress's skirt and I had partially assembled the two pieces. I did have the foresight to put all the fabric pieces, with the pattern (and instructions) in a big (three gallon?) bag. I was looking for the extra fabric, when I pulled out the dress, it looked great despite being in a plastic bag and moved around on the floor for the past 24 months. Perfect for traveling! LOL! I finished assembling it, tried it on and hemmed it. It should work out very well. I'll have to make certain to bring a shawl or scarf to wear with it, so that I can cover my arms if I feel uncomfortable.

This is all coming together--I'm so happy.

One down, one more to go

Well, I still need to add buttonholes and buttons. I'm going to use the red ones that are pinned to my dressform. I should be able to assemble the gold and white shirt tomorrow night. After that, I'll make some t-shirts. I have some bamboo jersey from a coop purchase.

Pardon the mess in the background. That is part of my ever-growing stash of fabric. I'm glad to have sewn something with this blouse weight cotton (with stretch). I purchased it over a year ago from Fabrics R Us in San Jose. It was $2.99 a yard (it was outside). I saw someone else purchasing it so I asked for some yardage. It's a fun print, probably, more summery than winter, but I like it and that is what counts. :)

Sewing Mise en Place

My laptop broke again but it's under warranty, so it's at the shop and I'm using my iPod touch. Sorry about the pic quality but it does make it easier and quicker to blog.

I was able to sew the front to the back (shoulder and side seams), and attach the button bindings. I'm a little bummed that I'm not as far along, but I'm sewing TWO blouses, so I should expect the process to seem slower. Tonight I should be able to sew the collars and sleeves. The pic shows one of the African wax prints from Michael's. I think that shiny white buttons will suit it nicely.

Simplicity 3684

I made one version from a lightweight pink ikat print from Happy Stop. It was such a success that I started two more versions. Since the fabric is primarily white, I don't need to change the thread. Last night I made the collars, cuffs, and button facings. Tonight should be able to assemble the shirts. The pic shows what I was able to sew last night. More later!

November! Random and scattered thoughts

I'm sorry for the long abscence, but I've been busy.

• What a wonderfully crazy weekend in San Francisco. Halloween, World Series, and Dance workshops all in San Francisco. I had a wonderful and busy time driving between the Mission, North Beach, Noe Valley and the Richmond district seeing ghost, goblins, the Pillsbury doughboy and lots of orange and black.
• My car. I took it in for routine maintaince gracious it can get costly. It's still cheaper than car payments, but gracious it's painful. Parts are cheap, labor is expensive.
• My laptop broke. I pushed the power button on my G4 and nothing happened. How sad. I tried to drop it off at the Apple repair place on Saturday, but they were closed for termite treatment. Happily, I was able to drop it off yesterday and the fix is relatively cheap. Memory is cheap, labor is expensive.
• I'm getting ready to travel internationally, so I bought an iPod touch to help keep in touch, but that thing needs to be synched with my laptop. The laptop should be repaired tomorrow, so right now I have a very shiny and pretty brick.
• Sewing. I'm sewing for my trip. I won't share details about where I'm going (until I get there!) , but I should need to dress somewhat for warm weather (no rain). I'm taking the HP Marrakesh pants, one of the Jalie trousers (made from jeans), and I'm making some Simplicity 3684 long sleeved blouses. This is one the Threads patterns with the different pattern pieces for different cup sizes. I'm almost finished with one blouse already. And yes, it will coordinate with the Burda 8269.
• I must remember that when buying buttons, buy them in batches suitable for blouses: 8-10 buttons, which means 6 buttons for the front placket and 2-3 smaller ones for the cuffs. Some of my travel blouses buttons will have mix and match buttons.
• I have too much stuff stashed away. I'm still working on getting rid of 1 bag of stuff a week. It's not necessarily sewing: it can be clothing, books, random items that have been hoarded away.

Sewing in the Transitional Month of October

I've been busy with several projects at work so, sewing has been taking a back seat. I've been sewing just a little bit, mostly small stuff.

1. Kwik Sew 2694, a knit top. I made view B, which is an empire cross over top from a leopard print knit. I have made this before It was quick and easy--a very nice way to get back into sewing.

2. Kwik Sew 3283, a neck pillow for traveling (one of those u-shaped pillows). I dug this pattern from my stash. I found a great bold cotton print that I acquired somewhere. It's a straightforward pattern, relatively easy to sew. I did not use fiberfil to stuff the pillow. I went to a store that sells foam (upholstery foam, Styrofoam, anything you can imagine). They sell bags of shredded foam, and I used that to tightly pack the pillow. The only problem I experienced was that the shredded foam gets everywhere! I had to bring out my hand vacum several times.

3. I spent this evening tracing Burda 8269, which is the plus size version of Burda 8407. Burda 8269 goes to sizes 44 - 54 (18 - 28). It looks like both patterns are out of print. This evening, I traced of the pattern on the Swedish tracing paper. Every piece needs to be traced out and the cutting layout suggests a single layer of fabric. And to make certain that I know what I'm doing when I actually sew the skirt, I have taped the pieces together. I have not checked to see if the front and back pieces are uniquely shaped. I may check that tomorrow before I cut the fabric.

I'm making View B (the same fabric throughout the skirt) I found a nice drapey royal blue rayon (I think it's rayon--I got it at either a fabric swap or an estate sale). The skirt pattern and fabric reminds me of a CP Shades skirt I purchased several years ago. It's a great comfy skirt that doesn't show wrinkles. It should come close. I'm also planning on making another version from another fabric, yet to be decided.

domestic maintenance

My refrigerator broke again! The light goes on, but it's no longer keeping stuff cold. I lost a lot of stuff from my freezer, including homemade tamales, frozen lobster ravioli, frozen fish (1 salmon fillet and a bunch of pieces of frozen cod), felafel balls, ice cream including a new half gallon of french vanilla), butter. In the fridge portion, I lost some leftover food, cheese (new Parmesan flakes, condiment (ketchup, mayonnaise) and probably a whole bunch of other stuff that I can't bear to toss yet. This happened about a year ago. I'm so annoyed that it happened again. I know that I'm going to have to toss everything.

When I moved into this apartment 8 years ago, my frugal landlady bought the cheapest fridge in the store (I know, I checked) When I called her about the broken, she acted so affronted that it broke again. She wanted to know if I could stay home on Monday so I could be there when the repair person can. I can't--my job is really busy and she needs to deal with the maintenance issues. That is why I pay rent.

In other news, I was able to go to the San Mateo Quilt and Sewing show. There were was mix of different vendors: quilt, some sewing, and a number of trimming vendors. I bought some small plastic buckles, suitable for Jalie 2921, the scarf top. I almost bought some hot fix gemstones (they are really cool) but I couldn't couldn't decide on which designs to buy. I did watch some great Iron/steamer demonstrations. I know that I have reached a new level of sewing when I can contemplate an iron that costs more than $100.

I did sew two versions of Jalie 2921. It's a nice variation on a regular t-shirt. I do have some rhinestone circular buckles from SF SCRAP, but they are too large for the neck scarf. I was very happy to find the smaller buckles at the San Mateo Show. I might try to make another top tonight so I can wear it to work this week.

African Fabrics from Michael's Fabrics/A Fabric Place

My bundle arrived from Michael's Fabrics today. They are gorgeous! I have 5 pieces which should be fun to work with. All of my fabrics came from the swatches that Sherri kindly sent me a earlier this month. ( I received 2, 4, 8, 9, 10) I'm going to wash them later this afternoon, so that they will be ready to go. I'm not certain which patterns I'm going to use but they are yummy. I found some new source of inspiration photographs--Jewel by Lisa-- courtesy of Eyeadaba's review on PR.

Right now, I'm recovering from a weekend dance workshop. I haven't attended a dance workshop in over a year. A weekend dance workshop means 3 hour class on Friday, 4 hours on Saturday, 4 hours on Sunday, and a show on both nights. I did not dance in the show on Saturday, but I did perform Sunday night. My arms and legs are very tired. I'm glad that I took Monday off from work. I'm happy to say that I made almost everything I wore this weekend (except lingerie and footwear), including the costume (very simple folkloric style). More on that later--I need to forage for some food.

Early Autumn 2010 Pattern Round-up

Simplicity, Vogue, McCall's have released their new patterns for Early Autumn 2010.

My top selections (in no particular order) are:

Simplicity 2339 - the Amazing Fit Shirt patterns with different pattern pieces for A, B, C & D cup sizes. I always buy the patterns where there are pattern pieces for different cup sizes.

Simplicity 2342 - the Amazing Fit Pleated pants, with different pieces for slim, average and curvy fit. I think that any pattern that will give me a head start on alterations is worth an investment.

Simplicity 2343 - Nice and Easy Pencil skirts., I like the interesting seam options, especially in views D, E, & F. I'm on the fence about the ruffles, but it's easy enough to omit.

[I'm not certain why this picture is so much smaller,but I'll try to fix it later]

Vogue 1203--Tracy Reese outfit. I like the top. The empire waist means that it's easy to alter, but I'm not certain how well it will look on women with full busts (e.g, myself). The skirt is okay (I'm not a fan of exposed zippers), but it doesn't appear special The outfit, as depicted on the envelope, is very nice, though.

Vogue 1204 - the Issei Miyake Tunic and Pants. Sigh. I like this but I have trouble seeing it look good on a curvy figure. I like the idea of making a slim cut pair of pants (in a plainer fabric--those diagonal lines on the pants on the pattern envelope make me dizzy). I like the cuff and the diagonal seaming on the tunic. I don't think that the drapey quality of the pattern would be flattering on curvy body. I imagine it would the fun puzzle trying to make the tunic follow my figure and go in at the waist.

Vogue 8672 - Easy Options. Five fun pencil skirts--just fun variations, with interesting waistbands, inserts and/or ruching. I don't wear a lot of skirts, but I can see this one being a classic.

Vogue 8664 - Very Easy Vogue Custom Fit for A, B, C, &D cup sizes. A lovely, slim-fit dress with a sweetheart neckline, with a head start on the alterations

Vogue 8679 - a wardrobe pattern with a jacket, skirt, top, and pants. I would buy it for the top--a simple raglan (short) sleeved t-shirt that's fitted.

McCall's 6162 - a classic sheath dress, with an inset waist. I'm glad that McCall's sewed up the version with the epaulet/tabbed sleeves, as I would have had trouble seeing how the tabs would have looked in real life (as opposed to judging from the technical drawing). Now I can see that the tabs don't really seem to work. The sleeveless or the sleeved version look great though. And it might be fun to play with the stripes/plaids/checks with this pattern (e.g. put the inset waist piece on the bias or on crosswise layout).

The eighties revival continues!

McCall's 6170--I like this motorcycle jacket, although with the asymmetrical zipper, it does appear to be channeling Michael Jackson in the 1980s.

McCall's 6171 - Made for you including custom patterns for A/B, C & D cups. instead of Michael Jackson, you can channel Eddie Murphy. I might pick this up (at a sale) for future reference.

And you can tell that it's the beginning of the sewing season: Halloween and Holiday gifts are starting to appear in the catalogs. Here's one that looks pretty cute:

McCall's 6180 - a Halloween costume for a child that is as cute as a bug ... or bee ... or arachnid!

fabric overload/ bundles

Hi, My name is Rose and I have a fabric buying problem. I see fabric, I want to hold and caress and own it. I have a hard time stepping back.

Michael's Fabrics of Maryland sent out a note earlier this week stating that they are selling some bundles of African cottons (42 inches wide). I asked Sherri if she had any more information about the fabrics, and she kindly scanned in some samples. I really wasn't going to order any more fabric (I already placed two other orders with them in the past 4 weeks), but when I saw the fabrics I bit and I ordered a small bundle.

(standard internet disclaimer) I don't work for or with Michael's Fabrics--I'm just a happy customer.

According to the email message, "these are authentic African cotton prints. They are 42 inches wide and some are metallic. We are offering bundles at $4.25 /yard. The cuts will be between 2-4 yards. They are 15, 20, 25, 30 and 50 yard bundles." So if you have questions about this fabric, please contact the Sherri or Michael using this information . I'm posting this because I've seen some questions about the African fabric on different internet forums. I won't answer any of the questions about the prices/shipping/availability, etc because I'm not the vendor. [I'm not planning on leaving this post up forever--I plan on removing it in a few weeks, as I imagine that the fabric will sold]

[Edited to add: Saturday 12:30 PDT--Sherri emailed me and let me know that many of the fabrics are depicted below have been sold out, but they have 30 or more of the African fabrics.]

Where did June go? Oh, well! On to July...

I hope that you have been as busy as I have. I've been distracted by work, working out, the World Cup, HBO (I subscribed so I can watch True Blood, but I didn't realize there were so many other shows available via On-Demand), and my home internet access breaking down. The internet access broke first, which led me around in circles for a while, trying to figure out what sort of internet/phone/tv/cell phone combination will work best for me. I didn't make any major changes, but thank goodness that I live in an apartment complex with neighbors who are generous with their wireless access. My new modem should arrive later this week, and I can stop imposing on my neighbors.

After the flurry of sewing in May, I slowed down in June. It's July and so I'm starting up again. I've worked on two blouses: I've perfected the Simplicity 2614 bias blouse pattern. Even though it has different pattern pieces for different bust sizes, I still had to do an FBA. I also lengthened it (I like to wear my shirts on the longer side). I also found out that this pattern works better in a drapey rayon weave, rather than a woven cotton (even if the cotton has crosswise stretch). This pattern goes together so quickly, that I should consider this part of my TNT patterns, even though I have made it only three times. I plan on making another version before the week is over.

I also tried putting together a muslin of HotPatterns Miss Moneypenny Pussycat blouse (HotPatterns 1047). I had traced out the pattern a month or so ago, but I actually cut it out in muslin to check the fit, as well as the instructions. I'm glad that I made a muslin, as I couldn't figure out how to add the tie-collar part (this pattern also has neck and buttonhole facings). NOTE: I have the older version of this pattern--HotPatterns original instruction style can be cryptic--I don't know if the instructions in newer version are different/clearer. Luckily, I still had Simplicity 2614 on my sewing table. One of the views features a tie-collar--I quickly cut some fabric for the view (of Simplicity 2614) with the necktie. The blouse went together very quickly and very nicely. I should be able to transfer the tie-collar instructions from the Simplicity pattern to the HotPatterns blouse. If I have time this weekend, I'll finish the muslin, and check for alterations.

I'm so happy that I'm experiencing success and progress with these two blouses. My default look at work is a knit t-shirt or blouse. They are better than what is available in ready-to-wear, but I've been feeling that they are too informal. I'm glad that I'm adding woven blouses to my self-sewn wardrobe. It's great--I can go through my stash and identify fabrics that are suitable for these blouses. One issue is that many of my stashed fabrics are informal. Ahh! well, it will be fun to see how I can use them all.

May Recap

What did I sew during the Merry Month of May?

Six pairs of Marrakesh pants.

1. one in heavy rayon suiting (from Fabrics R Us in San Jose via the stash).
2. one in a slate grey flannel (from the stash from somewhere). I honestly cannot remember how I acquired this fabric. My stash may be reproducing on it's own--it would explain all the lint I find in my apartment.
3. one in a green textured linen (from Elliot Berman, owned less than 2 weeks before cutting!). These are fun, because I used a quilting cotton in a US dollar print for the pockets and waistband lining--I'll always have money in my pockets!
4. one in wild burgundy and cream plaid, with a lime green line (from a Hancock Fabrics store closure, from the stash, and it's at least a year old). And yes, I matched the plaids on all the seams, including the center back seam which matches horizontally, but not vertically (because the plaid is uneven). I love these pants---they remind me of a pair of Perry Ellis plaid pants that I wore when I was in high school. I still have those pants--I'm never going to fit in them again, but just looking at them in my closet makes me smile.
5. one in a reddish-pink cottony/lineny blend. This pair of pants frays whenever I launder it-these pants are not going to last through the summer because the I didn't take the time to finish all the seams. The allowances are topstitched down, but the unfinished edges are going to erode away like a cliffside hit by ocean waves at high tide (from Fabrics R Us, owned less than 1 week before cutting).
6. one embroidered khaki linen/cotton blend (from Happy Stop, owned less than 1 week before cutting). A fun neutral color, but the embroidery makes it a little more special than the plain khaki pants that are all over Silicon Valley.

After sewing six pairs of these pants, I can sew this pattern from memory, including the fly zipper. Sewing the Marrakesh pattern from memory doesn't mean that I didn't make mistakes, but I was able to catch them and fix them before they went too far. Regarding zippers: I watched the Threads/Sandra Betzina video a few times while I was sewing the first two pairs, but last night when I pulled out my pattern for the BWOF 402 pants (I need to have more trousers in my wardrobe rotation), I didn't hesitate to put in the zipper for muslin. I must have been upset when I last tried sewing the 402 pants, as I found the pattern all crumpled up. Luckily, Swedish tracing paper irons very well.

More sewing--Four Sunshine tops:

1. one in purple & white stretch (rayon & lycra?) fabric from Michael Levine Loft (purchased in February 2010.
2. one in a brown tribal cotton lycra (from an online coop, via the stash, at least 1 year old). This may be too informal for work, but it's great to wear on weekends
3. A combination of a black rayon/lycra and a remnant of black/red/white/beige stretch lycra (from Happy Stop, at least 3 years old). Definitely suitable for work.
4. A black and white small/geometric stretch lycra, from a BABES exchange, I think (age unknown). I debated using a solid color for the collar and I elected not to. I think that was not the best decision. The result is a very busy looking shirt. I'll wear it a couple of times before I decide if it's a pass/fail.

I can understand why this pattern is so popular--it's a great/fashionable shirt that got a little more going on than a simple t-shirt--its very flattering. But it's easy to sew.

And I made two other tops:

1 Simplicity 4076 (the simple t-shirt) made from a red and white chain-link patten (from Gorgeous Fabrics from about 4 years ago, via the stash). Definitely suitable for work. I like it because it's bright.

1 Burda 7970 T-shirt, made from a Gustav Klimt cotton lycra from Fabrix (owned less than 2 weeks before cutting). Very suitable--I wore it today. It might be better for Fall/Autumn, but I really like the rich colors.

1 Simplicity 2614. This is a pullover top (made from a woven) and it's custom fit pattern (A-D cups). Another plus is that it doesn't require buttonholes. Laura--thank you bringing this pattern to my attention. I made two muslins, the second one in a clearly defined striped shirting, which didn't seem to work. The back and lower front is cut on the bias (which is why you can pull it on over your head) and the stripes just look awkward. I think that a small scale pattern (floral or checks) will work better. I did pull some fabrics out of the stash for this project, but I got busy with other patterns.

I also have one garment which hasn't quite reached UFO status--one pair of McCall's shorts--I need to re-cut the waistband, and attach that. It's been sitting at my cutting table for 2 weeks.

I also went through part of my fabric and notion stash (I'd get overwhelmed if I went through ALL of it). I pulled out and re-folded some of my knits and stretch fabrics, selecting some for the different t-shirts tops that I planned on sewing (but I didn't get around to sewing ALL of them LOL!). I also went through my stash of interfacing, and I think that I'm set for the next few years, unless someone figures out a way to make garments completely out of interfacing. *smile*

There was a meme travelling around the blogosphere --Me-Made-May*. I followed along, trying to wear clothing that I had made (of course, I didn't take any pictures). I had problems on Fridays--we have casual Fridays at work, and while I have made some jeans, I just don't like the way they fit. So one of my upcoming projects is to make another pair of jeans (or pants from denim), so I have something to wear on Fridays.

*There will be a follow up in the Fall, Self-Stitched September, so maybe I'll try to participate in that.

Memorial Day 2010 - sewing and stash

It's a three day weekend in the United States. Monday is Memorial day, commemorating the men and women who have died in military service. For those who have died, we salute you.

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I've been sewing: I've made 2 Hotpatterns Sunshine tops and 1 pair of Hotpatterns Marrakesh pants. I'm really happy about the Marrakesh I'm getting ready to make another top. It's late, so tonight I'm going to make a knit top, using a TNT. It's too late to start a woven top, using a new pattern.

Yesterday, I also refolded a large part of my fabric stash. it's great--I know what I have it now. I really have a LOT of fabric. It makes me wish that I had a two bedroom apartment, so that I could devote 1 room to sewing and stash storage. I was very bad last weekend. I fell off the wagon and I'm rolling around in yardage.

Last Saturday, I went to Happy Stop in Oakland and I purchased 2 bags of fabric. I hadn't been there for about a year. Simon missed me! I bought some beige embroidered cotton, 2 1/2 yards that I managed to squeeze a pair of the Marrakesh pants (note: I really need at least 2 5/8 of a yard.) I also purchased some ikat style prints wovens (one pink and one turquoise), as well as some quiet rayon plaids, suitable for pants and skirts, or sheath dresses. I have a habit of picking remnants, even at fabric discounters. I'm really glad that I picked up the habit of pre-washing. After my purchasing spree, I went home, sewed the fabric pieces together and drove to my local laundry-mat. I loading 2 front loading washing machines, put in the laundry detergent and synthrapol, loaded my quarters, and I watched the water turn brown in one of the machines. The dye on three of the remnants ran--lucking none of the dye stuck to the other fabrics, but I have some yardage that is looks like a Deadhead caught in the rain. I'm really glad that I pre-wash with synthrapol. The washed out fabrics are probably going to Goodwill. I'm not upset about the remnants that ran--Simon bundled together all the pieces I selected that were less than 2 yards and had given me a special price. If I had paid full retail/britex prices, I would be upset. As it is, I resigned to the fact that I thought that some of the fabrics had a weird finish or hand to them when I folded them in the store. C'est la vie!

A week ago Friday, I went to an estate sale during lunch time--it was less than a mile from work and the craigslist ad mentioned fabric, so I decided to go. It turned out to be the estate of the owners of a Japanese gift shop. I managed to score several Japanese fabric, several yukata/kimono lengths of cotton (they were cotton--I could read the kanji), marked down from $168 to $10 each. The fabric is about 12 inches wide, and was rolled up and wrapped in paper. I think that the previous owners had cats, because I kept sneezing when I picked them up. They were part of the laundromat trip last Saturday--I did fold and sew/baste the fabric lengths before laundering, and then I spent a good few hours ironing them dry and re-rolling them before storing them.

I know that I'm jumping around in my timeline, but after I went to Happy Stop in Oakland, I decided to go to Fabrix in San Francisco. It was a glorious day--the sun was out, it was warm and it was a great day to cross the Bay Bridge. I bought some more fabric, most notably some knit yardage: a grey, black, and white abstract suitable for work clothing, and another printed knit that is reminiscent of Gustav Klimt. And more fabrics, mostly rayon wovens that are suitable for pants.

I hope that everyone enjoys a happy and safe holiday.

HotPatterns 1071 Weekender Sunshine Top

My current project is working with the HotPatterns 1071 Weekender Sunshine top. This top has been reviewed over 25 times on PatternReview--it's considered a winner. I purchased this pattern last summer, but I didn't have time to make it before the weather turned cold. Now the weather is warm and I have a plethora of knits and jerseys, so it's time to sew. I need more summer tops, as the ones that I have made over the past few years have been worn out. We are business casual at work and I want to make certain that I'm not veering to the sloppy side of casual.

The Sunshine Top is a t-shirt variation--there are 5 pattern pieces: front, back, front collar, back collar, and sleeves (there is an optional hem band). It's got a round interfaced collar. Last week I traced the pattern pieces, cut them out and started sewing a wearable muslin (e.g. I used a knit that wouldn't break my heart if I had to throw it away). This is an older pattern and the instructions are not illustrated. The instructions start with assembling the collar pieces, then assembling the bodice then combining the two. It's pretty straightforward, if you can remember to sew right sides together. For some reason I didn't understand them. Frustrated, I decided to search around for someone else's review and I came across Pam Erny's Off the Cuff tutorial on this top. Wow! The instructions were soo much clearer after reading through that tutorial. Thank you, Pam!

I like how the first top turned out--the interfaced collar keeps the top from being too informal. Trudy has videos showing how the pattern variations--part one and part two. I made my first Sunshine top from a cotton interlock (with no appreciable lycra). I made some minor alterations to the pattern so it ill fit me better (a small FBA and adding more fabric to the front piece, to improve the drape). I made another one, this time using fabric that I purchased in at the Michael Levine Loft in Los Angeles. This fabric is a large scale abstract floral knit in shades of purple, lavender, and white. I was very surprised to discover that I don't have any dark purple thread! I did find a spool of lavender thread, which actually is a better match for this fabric, so off I went. I also have some solid color jerseys/knits--I think that the Sunshine top and this pattern will work well together. I think that the solid colors will also be more appropriate for a work environment.

It looks like the Merry Month of May might be HotPatterns month, too. I spent all day today sewing a new pair of Marrakesh pants in a light linen weave--these didn't turnout as well as my last pair--the back has some wrinkles that weren't visible in the other linen pair. Earlier this evening, I traced out the Miss MoneyPenny PussyCat Blouse. I purchased this pattern several years ago--my version has the Glamour Girl sizing. In the blogosphere, there have been several discussions about blouses with scarves or ties. Tomorrow night I'll try making it up in muslin to check the fit. If it works out, I'll make it in a real fabric. I have a collection of woven blouse-weight fabrics that I need to explore and sew down.

Note---regarding the February fabric haul: I'm looking through my pattern stash to find a great fit for the other fabrics I purchased in February. I haven't forgotten about them!

HotPatterns Marrakesh Pants part 2

I've finished two wearable pairs of HotPatterns Marrakesh Pants. I made the second pair from the mystery slate gray flannel. For this pair, I decided not to alter the pattern and trim outside seam at the hip line (and the pockets). I think that they turned out very well--I still have to sew on the hook and eye at the waistband. I'm glad that I removed a quarter inch from the front legs--the pants are still drapey, but they are not billowy. There is still some extra fabric gathered at the waist, but it's not excessive (altering the outside seam would fix that). After writing this post, I've viewed Trudy's Marrakesh Pants video and it looks like there is no extra fabric gathering at the waist. I may need to look at my draft again...

I've lowered the waistline on the pattern for the third pair, which will be made from linen. I consider this linen as the really good stuff from the stash, especially since it usually retails for $12 a yard (I got it on sale for $6 a yard earlier this month. This yardage hasn't aged at all in my stash LOL!). I shouldn't get too worried when cutting this out--I'm familiar with the Marrakesh pattern, since I've sewn it several times. I made the first two pairs from woven fabrics with crosswise stretch. The linen doesn't have any crosswise stretch, but I'll double check the fit of the pattern before cutting, as well as comparing pattern to the second pair of pants.

Fabric prep--I washed the linen the other night, and I've pressed it (with steam) to remove the wrinkles (suggested by Sandra Betzina's Fabric Savvy). I'm glad that I pre-washed the fabric-- the lint catcher in the dryer was filled when I dried this load of fabric yardage. It could have been the linen or it could have been another piece, but I'm glad that I'm not going to encounter that dust when sewing. Right now, I'm letting the fabric rest on the cutting table for two reasons: I don't like to cut fabric late at night (or early in the morning). The second reason is there has been some discussion on sewing blogs/boards that fabric gets stretched when it's tightly wound on bolts, so it should be allowed to relax and contract before it's cut into garments. Even if the fabric relaxed after I laundered it, I may have stretched it when I pressed it. So the fabric is resting, spread over and gently folded on my cutting table, with all the notions assembled and ready to go. I guess that sewist and the fabric should be relaxed before cutting.

I know--I don't have any pictures of my work. I'll try to get some up after the third pair. I'm in awe of those bloggers post with pictures every time!

HotPatterns Wong Singh Jones Marrakesh Pants

After three muslins (made from muslin), I have made one wearable pair of HotPatterns Wong Singh Jones Marrakesh Pants. Yaaaay! Muslin number one was straight from the pattern. I found that I needed to increase the length of the U of my crotch, more on the back pants piece than in the front. I also added some on the sideseam (on the back piece). I made my first wearable pair from a grey fabric pinstriped with silver thread--it has a really nice drape, while it's soft to wear. I can't remember from where I got this: it could have been Fabrix, Fabrics R Us, or Happy Stop.

I'm happy with the final results, but I think that there are more fitting problems issues to fine-tune:

• I think that the front is a little too loose/drapey, so I'm folding out a .25 inch from the front piece, right along the center of the pattern piece.
• The waistline is a hybrid of elastic and drawstring, along with a zipper--I like how Trudy designed this. I've noticed that very easy to gather a lot of fabric on a drawstring, and this excess fabric will create a bulky waistline, but because of this design I think that I can shave about 1 to 1.5 inches from around the waist (from the front and back pants pattern pieces). If I remove this extra fabric, it will help provide better shaping to my waist. I can probably be more aggressive with removing extra fabric around the waist because the zipper will allow me pull the pants around around my hips. I'm debating if I want to keep the inseam pockets because reshaping the waist-to-hip curve means I'll have to check pockets, too. Many of the other sewists who have made this pattern eliminated the pockets completely. Decisions, decisions.

My next fabric will be a mystery slate grey piece that I pulled out of my stash. I was going to use a striped piece of black rayon (I think that it's rayon) that I purchased from Fabrix. Last night I pulled it out of my stash, removed the machine basting (I sew the ends of my fabric together when I prewash, then store the fabric with the basting. That way, I know that I washed it) and then I laid it out on my cutting table so that I could work on it when I got home. Then I realized that I was going to be altering and tweaking the fit again, and I thought about the strong stripes, so I went digging though my fabric stash again. I found the mystery slate grey piece along with some really colorful (and even) plaid pieces (that I know that I purchased from Fabrix). The plaids are currently in the wash with some recently acquired linen (which I will be labeling with their origin after the are removed from the dryer).

Catching up

I have been remiss in updating my blog. If you have been following my blog, thank you for your patience! It's been well over a month since I've made an entry. I've been busy though. Since my last post, I've:

• rehearsed and performed with a troupe at a dance festival (which also included creating and finishing my costume),
• helped a co-worker go fabric shopping with his visiting sisters,
• started working with a new manager at work (this a good thing),
• attended a work related conference,
• had a honeybee swarm invade my patio (if this happens to you, call a beekeeper and they can take care of it),
• had a U-pipe develop crack in my bathroom (thank goodness for two things: 1) I have a responsive landlady and 2) the damaged pipe drains water so I wasn't dealing with water pouring into my bathroom).

After I discovered the cracked U-pipe, I spent half the night re-arranging the sewing materials so that there would be room for the plumbers get around (my apartment looks like a ill-kempt fabric warehouse). But onward to sewing related things.

I've acquired more fabric under very sad circumstances. Last weekend, La Fred had a liquidation sale. Fred Bloembaum, the owner and creator was not there--she is very ill and her friends were running the sale. It was really two sales: one part were the sample clothes that Fred had made to demonstrate the patterns that she designs (it was advertised in Craigslist as Art to Wear). The other part of the sale was the dispersal of her sewing collection: her sewing books, patterns from her personal collection (e.g. Vogue, Butterick, etc), and her fabric and notions. I got to the sale in the late afternoon and by then the items were being discounted. I bought fabric (in great colors--coral and tangerine), sewing books, notions (needles, rotary blades, and petersham), patterns (mostly vogues and neue modes). It was very interesting to see her clothing merchandise and her sewing collection together in one room: it was a unique (if incomplete) view of the creative cycle. Fred is very artistic and creative in combining colors and textures--hopefully I can learn from her through her materials. In some ways, I'm very conservative when selecting/combining fabrics-- I was able to purchase some books that illustrate the different things: I'm enjoying reading "Modern Fashion in Detail" by Claire Wilcox and Valerie Mendes, which contains super close-up pictures of the clothing at the Victoria and Albert Museum. It's a great book to browse through. I'm still trying to find a place for my acquisitions.

I spent some time talking with Fred's friends. I did meet Fred at the Artistry in Fashion event, but I had not taken a workshop with her. Her friend and neighbor Mary told me that Fred is reading the messages sent to her at the CarePages (look for the group named FredFans) and she is touched and nicely overwhelmed by messages left by all people remember her from her workshops.

I have been sewing. I got tired of wearing the same clothing and I made 3 t-shirts from tried and true patterns: Simplicity 4076 and Burda 7970. I did use two fabrics from my LA trip, but they were not fabrics shown in previous post. One of the fabric was a remnant of a black and grey border print knit, the other is a orange/yellow/blue tie-dye mesh that a friend bought for me because I kept flirting bargaining with the store owner and his dad and she wanted to get out of there. I used a border knit print for the third shirt from my stash (purchased from Fabrix in SF). I also made some tea-cozies as gifts for my friends.

My next project is the Hot Patterns Marrakesh pants. I traced out the pattern over the weekend , read through a number of pattern reviews, and I actually cut out the fabric in muslin. I didn't compare the tracing to my previous pants draft, and I altered the tracing and made another muslin. Oh well, muslins are for learning--and I did figure out how the different pieces are assembled so it was a good time investment. I have altered my tracing for my curvy booty (lengthening the crotch after consulting Pants for Real People), pin fit the tracing paper. I feel comfortable that my next step is to cut out the pattern in real fashion fabric--one of the many pieces of inexpensive pieces of yardage that I have in my apartment. It this one works, then I'll use the good stuff.

Weekend Project

I'm sewing again! Unfortunately, it's not the princess seamed jacket, nor am I working with any of the luscious knits that I showed in my last post. I'm working on a costume. Last night, I spent time clearing off my cutting table, cutting out the pattern, and de-linting my sewing machine. I'm performing with some friends at a festival in two weeks, and I realized that I had better work on my costume and make certain every costume piece fits instead of just talking about it. I have all the piece: fabric, interfacing, thread needles. I just need to get going and put it all together. The Olympics interrupt my sewing time, and I realize that I get more done when I have music playing (or the radio). The TV is too much of a distraction.

My character is a North African/Mediterranean housewife, so she needs a loose fitting robe (which will be worn over another part of the costume). I bought a very lightweight striped polyester woven last week from Michael Levine from their sales area ($1 a yard). I think that it might have originally been meant for curtains. I'm using Simplicity 4048, which features a squared yoke and gathered skirt pieces. I cut out the fabric pieces this afternoon after my dance class and I started assembling it. It's going together very quickly which is very nice. I hope to have it finished by rehearsal tomorrow afternoon. I'll try to post some pictures before the weekend is over.