Jalie 2562 Polo shirt transformed into Balady dress

Bellydancing is one of my hobbies. There are many different styles of Egyptian bellydance style costumes.* Many people are the familiar with the two piece bra and belt sets which are fabulously embellished with beads, sequins, coins (in any combination), the lycra dance dresses embellished with sequins and gems, and the many various folkloric styles associated with the different regions and cities of Egypt and other parts of the Middle East. When I can, I try to make simpler costumes so that I can have something fun, pretty, and new to wear when I perform.

Important things about costumes: the dancer should feel comfortable and confident in her costume. The costume should feel secure, she should feel that it's flattering and it should not be constricting. The costume should show movement and it should be respectful of the audience. While I'm using the word 'she,' these guidelines really apply to both men and women.

I like to make a fun costume, a long simple dress, which is commonly called a balady dress. There are a lot of different versions of balady dresses: some of very fitted, some are looser (and very much resemble a galabaya), some dresses are beaded, some are sequined. Nothing, not body parts nor underwear, should be unintentionally displayed (it will distract the audience). There is really no limit to what you can do. The one thing they have in common is that the midriff is covered (the fabric might be transparent, though! :) Just because you are covered up, doesn't mean that you cannot be a little naughty! LOL).

I start with Jalie 2562, a pattern for a polo shirt. The pattern features with a self-fabric collar and collar stand, open placket, side vents and cap or three-quarter sleeves. Several years ago, another dancer, Danidance from Bhuz.com, brought this pattern to my attention. Look for a pattern designed for a jersey/knit (e.g. designed for fabric that stretches, rather than a woven fabric), and look a placket, which will help with the collar. If you cannot get a hold of Jalie 2562, you can look for another pattern. My suggestions Kwik Sew 3532, 3059, (polo shirt patterns) might be helpful. I haven't sewn these patterns so I can't vouch for them, but I have had good experiences with the instructions in other Kwik Sew patterns. I think that the placket is the significant feature of the dress. If you are comfortable with it, you probably could start with a plain t-shirt pattern and add a placket using instructions from a sewing instruction book.

I use vibrantly patterned two-way stretch jersey fabric (four-way stretch will work, too) so I don't have to spend time embroidering and adding sequins. Make certain that the greatest amount of stretch will go around your body, not up and down. I choose vibrant colored stretch fabrics because it's for a costume. Demure and tasteful doesn't always work for costumes--don't be afraid to look at the shiny, fabrics that feature metallics or sequins (be wary of glitter dot fabric. It's a bear to sew. Pick up some Sewer's Aid and a packet of needles when you buy the fabric. Here are some more glitter dot sewing tips from Dina Lydia and more tips from Davina). I select stretchy fabrics decorated with prints, because I don't have the patience for adding sequins, beads, etc... When selecting a fabric decorated with a pattern, make certain that the pattern will run the right way when it is place against your body.

My pattern alterations for a balady dress include:

1. Lengthening the pattern to floor length (add 1-2 inches more than you think, because it's easier to cut a skirt that is too long than to alter a skirt that is too short.
2. Deepening the neckline (to tastefully display my lovely decolletage).
3. Eliminating the stand-up collar. Because I've eliminated the collar, I've added a collar band on the back piece. The collar band connects to the plackets at the shoulder seams
4. Altering the sleeves to a flattering length (usually somewhere between my elbow and shoulder).
5. Taking in the side seams, especially at waist. I like my balady dresses to be more fitted rather than loose. The Jalie polo shirt pattern has regular ease built in--it's designed to wear on the street and in the office, not to wear on the stage, so it has a looser fit. In the end, I alter the side seams significantly, taking in about as much as 1 inch on each seam (e.g, 4 inches). Your mileage may vary.
6. I accessorize the costume with a firm cup store-bought plunge-neckline bra, which I may cover with coordinating costume fabric. I'll cover the bra with costume fabric if the bra shows--the dancer shouldn't look like she is unintentionally dancing in her underwear. She shouldn't flash the audience either, so a bra is required!
7. I also make a headbands and ankle bands from the leftover fabric.
8. Store any extra fabric with your costume. I save larger pieces of fabric in case I want to make alterations or to make another costume piece. I try to save 1 large random fabric scrap that has all the fabric's colors in it so I can use bring it with me when I'm looking for accessories.

When performing, I use different hip wraps (Egyptian beaded scarves, sequin scarfs, or any combination). This basic design can be altered by adding one or two slits along the legs. The slits can be along the side seams or you can cut a new one in front of one of the legs. Chiffon drapes can be added at the slits and sleeves if you like.

Some more suggestions:

1. When you are making the costume for the first time, make a muslin (test garment). Use a fabric that has similar characteristics to your fashion fabric. You can use the muslin to check the fit, and the sewing techniques. It will not be a waste of time.
2. Before you cut your fabric, lay out the pattern pieces so that the fabrics greatest amount of stretch goes around your body, not lengthwise (not up and down). Make certain that any motifs or patterns on the fabric will land on a flattering place on your body (e.g. the stripes are running up and down).
3. Accept the fact that you will become friends with your seam ripper, which you can use to delicately remove threads so you can try again.
4. Use a ballpoint needle designed for knit or jersey. Use the special tips and hints if you are using glitter dot.
5. Vacuum out your sewing machine (especially around the bobbin case) after you finish your dress, especially if your fabric has glitter on it.

*Note--Egyptian dance is just one slice of the bellydance scene-there is just so much variety, that I can't discuss it all in one post.

African Fabrics from Michael's Fabrics/A Fabric Place

My bundle arrived from Michael's Fabrics today. They are gorgeous! I have 5 pieces which should be fun to work with. All of my fabrics came from the swatches that Sherri kindly sent me a earlier this month. ( I received 2, 4, 8, 9, 10) I'm going to wash them later this afternoon, so that they will be ready to go. I'm not certain which patterns I'm going to use but they are yummy. I found some new source of inspiration photographs--Jewel by Lisa-- courtesy of Eyeadaba's review on PR.

Right now, I'm recovering from a weekend dance workshop. I haven't attended a dance workshop in over a year. A weekend dance workshop means 3 hour class on Friday, 4 hours on Saturday, 4 hours on Sunday, and a show on both nights. I did not dance in the show on Saturday, but I did perform Sunday night. My arms and legs are very tired. I'm glad that I took Monday off from work. I'm happy to say that I made almost everything I wore this weekend (except lingerie and footwear), including the costume (very simple folkloric style). More on that later--I need to forage for some food.

I have been remiss . . .

I have been remiss in posting to my blog. My sewing mojo disappeared in January. As you may have guessed from my last post, a very good friend died over the holidays, and I have been dealing with her unexpected death. And dealing with the realization and slow acceptance that some questions can never be answered. And that it's possible to be angry with a friend and sad for her at the same time. I can forgive her (and have) but it doesn't get rid of the pain and the unexpected absences. It was a rough January, and I want a do-over, and start the 2010 again. Or maybe start 2009 again (just the friendship part, and not the economic meltdown).

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In late November, I discovered that I had maxed out on my PTO (personal time off), so I planned a sewing vacation during the week of Martin Luther King's birthday. I had a planned project, bought fabric, notions, and etc. Then Boom! All my energy disappeared. I decided that I had to get away and get out of the area and re-charge my brain, so I planned a mini-trip (solo) to Las Vegas. I had been to Las Vegas twice before, but I had flown there and was without a car, so I would be stuck in casinos (which can be entertaining, but I don't gamble) so I decided to drive to Las Vegas. It was a good idea (well, maybe), but it was one of the rainiest weeks in record. Imagine driving in a shower. For 9 hours. I made it there and back, and I would probably do it again, but I could do without the rain and the snow.

It was a fun 3 days, I saw two shows (Penn and Teller are more entertaining than Cris Angel. The Cris Angel show with Cirque du Soleil is going through some growing pains), window-shopped at the Forum (in Caesar's Palace), but the highlight was the Liberace Museum. I wasn't a great fan of Liberace while he was alive, but after his death, I have been able to appreciate his talent, skills, kindness, and personality. It's great to see all of his stuff: rhinestones encrust everything! His cars! his pianos! They have the largest Swarsovki rhinestone! His rings are there, too! And Liberace's costumes! You get to see them, front and back--feathers, rhinestones, bright colors, fur, beads! nothing was done by half measures. It was great! The museum appealed to the sewist in my as well as the magpie that is drawn to all things bright and shiny. If you go to Vegas, I recommend the museum and tour. Liberace was part of the older version of Vegas, and he was one of the first big headliners and it's a great way to spend a couple of hours. The museum is way off the strip on Tropicana, but they have a shuttle that will pick you up.

Since returning, I've made deliberate efforts to keep remain busy, and to re-connect with friends with whom I had lost contact over the past two years as well as re-engage with life (I forgot this lesson from team sports: playing offense is always more fun than playing defense). This upcoming weekend, I'm going to Long Beach, CA for a dance festival (I'm not performing, just taking workshops and enjoying the scene). Which means that on Monday, I get to go fabric shopping in Los Angeles! I have some costume pieces that I need to make for another event in March (as well as some non-costume ideas), so it will be fun to shop with a project in mind.

My sewing mojo is returning. Earlier today, I removed all the stuff that had accumulated on my cutting table, toss the junk mail, sorted the magazines, piled up the patterns, and arranged my scissors, markers, and other sewing stuff into easy reach containers. I dug around in my stash. and I laid out some wildly colored (orange with purple highlights) buttermilk fabric, and I cut out a top to wear at the gym (one of my TNT Kwik-sews). I'm also planning on sewing a new pair of fitness pants, but before that, perhaps I will trace out my original January project, because if I make it this week, I can wear it this weekend. I probably won't finish it in time, but I shouldn't let that stop me from getting started.