Jalie 2562 Polo shirt transformed into Balady dress

Bellydancing is one of my hobbies. There are many different styles of Egyptian bellydance style costumes.* Many people are the familiar with the two piece bra and belt sets which are fabulously embellished with beads, sequins, coins (in any combination), the lycra dance dresses embellished with sequins and gems, and the many various folkloric styles associated with the different regions and cities of Egypt and other parts of the Middle East. When I can, I try to make simpler costumes so that I can have something fun, pretty, and new to wear when I perform.

Important things about costumes: the dancer should feel comfortable and confident in her costume. The costume should feel secure, she should feel that it's flattering and it should not be constricting. The costume should show movement and it should be respectful of the audience. While I'm using the word 'she,' these guidelines really apply to both men and women.

I like to make a fun costume, a long simple dress, which is commonly called a balady dress. There are a lot of different versions of balady dresses: some of very fitted, some are looser (and very much resemble a galabaya), some dresses are beaded, some are sequined. Nothing, not body parts nor underwear, should be unintentionally displayed (it will distract the audience). There is really no limit to what you can do. The one thing they have in common is that the midriff is covered (the fabric might be transparent, though! :) Just because you are covered up, doesn't mean that you cannot be a little naughty! LOL).

I start with Jalie 2562, a pattern for a polo shirt. The pattern features with a self-fabric collar and collar stand, open placket, side vents and cap or three-quarter sleeves. Several years ago, another dancer, Danidance from Bhuz.com, brought this pattern to my attention. Look for a pattern designed for a jersey/knit (e.g. designed for fabric that stretches, rather than a woven fabric), and look a placket, which will help with the collar. If you cannot get a hold of Jalie 2562, you can look for another pattern. My suggestions Kwik Sew 3532, 3059, (polo shirt patterns) might be helpful. I haven't sewn these patterns so I can't vouch for them, but I have had good experiences with the instructions in other Kwik Sew patterns. I think that the placket is the significant feature of the dress. If you are comfortable with it, you probably could start with a plain t-shirt pattern and add a placket using instructions from a sewing instruction book.

I use vibrantly patterned two-way stretch jersey fabric (four-way stretch will work, too) so I don't have to spend time embroidering and adding sequins. Make certain that the greatest amount of stretch will go around your body, not up and down. I choose vibrant colored stretch fabrics because it's for a costume. Demure and tasteful doesn't always work for costumes--don't be afraid to look at the shiny, fabrics that feature metallics or sequins (be wary of glitter dot fabric. It's a bear to sew. Pick up some Sewer's Aid and a packet of needles when you buy the fabric. Here are some more glitter dot sewing tips from Dina Lydia and more tips from Davina). I select stretchy fabrics decorated with prints, because I don't have the patience for adding sequins, beads, etc... When selecting a fabric decorated with a pattern, make certain that the pattern will run the right way when it is place against your body.

My pattern alterations for a balady dress include:

1. Lengthening the pattern to floor length (add 1-2 inches more than you think, because it's easier to cut a skirt that is too long than to alter a skirt that is too short.
2. Deepening the neckline (to tastefully display my lovely decolletage).
3. Eliminating the stand-up collar. Because I've eliminated the collar, I've added a collar band on the back piece. The collar band connects to the plackets at the shoulder seams
4. Altering the sleeves to a flattering length (usually somewhere between my elbow and shoulder).
5. Taking in the side seams, especially at waist. I like my balady dresses to be more fitted rather than loose. The Jalie polo shirt pattern has regular ease built in--it's designed to wear on the street and in the office, not to wear on the stage, so it has a looser fit. In the end, I alter the side seams significantly, taking in about as much as 1 inch on each seam (e.g, 4 inches). Your mileage may vary.
6. I accessorize the costume with a firm cup store-bought plunge-neckline bra, which I may cover with coordinating costume fabric. I'll cover the bra with costume fabric if the bra shows--the dancer shouldn't look like she is unintentionally dancing in her underwear. She shouldn't flash the audience either, so a bra is required!
7. I also make a headbands and ankle bands from the leftover fabric.
8. Store any extra fabric with your costume. I save larger pieces of fabric in case I want to make alterations or to make another costume piece. I try to save 1 large random fabric scrap that has all the fabric's colors in it so I can use bring it with me when I'm looking for accessories.

When performing, I use different hip wraps (Egyptian beaded scarves, sequin scarfs, or any combination). This basic design can be altered by adding one or two slits along the legs. The slits can be along the side seams or you can cut a new one in front of one of the legs. Chiffon drapes can be added at the slits and sleeves if you like.

Some more suggestions:

1. When you are making the costume for the first time, make a muslin (test garment). Use a fabric that has similar characteristics to your fashion fabric. You can use the muslin to check the fit, and the sewing techniques. It will not be a waste of time.
2. Before you cut your fabric, lay out the pattern pieces so that the fabrics greatest amount of stretch goes around your body, not lengthwise (not up and down). Make certain that any motifs or patterns on the fabric will land on a flattering place on your body (e.g. the stripes are running up and down).
3. Accept the fact that you will become friends with your seam ripper, which you can use to delicately remove threads so you can try again.
4. Use a ballpoint needle designed for knit or jersey. Use the special tips and hints if you are using glitter dot.
5. Vacuum out your sewing machine (especially around the bobbin case) after you finish your dress, especially if your fabric has glitter on it.

*Note--Egyptian dance is just one slice of the bellydance scene-there is just so much variety, that I can't discuss it all in one post.