Self Stitched September and Jalie 2909

Earlier this summer I signed up for Self Stitched September. Last weekend I realized that September is only a few weeks days away, so I had better start stitching for the cooler faller weather. Well, starting on Monday, the San Francisco Bay area has been hit by a heat wave. It's been averaging 90 plus degrees in my area. I have found it challenging to pull the wool blends from my stash to sew. I decided that I need to make some winter/autumn weight (err...this is San Francisco Bay area winter/autumn weight, which means that while it might get cold, we don't get any snow or ice that doesn't melt away).

I have made progress, though. I have made 3 pairs of Jalie 2909, Women's Classic Trousers. As I mentioned earlier, this is a very simple pattern with 3 pieces. The pattern is designed for a fabric with 20% crosswise stretch (one of my favorite tips for a knit gauge is located here on the Sewing Diva's blog (not the current blog)) but you can alter the pattern for fabrics with zero stretch. Two of the pairs of trousers are suitable for autumn, in color and fabric weight (the summer weight pair was made from a pastel plaid---I'm going to try and wear them several times before the season is over). I've used stash fabric from Happy Stop, Fabrix, and Michael's (Yay! that's close to 9 yards!). I'm planning on making two more pairs, so I can wear one pair each day to work. When I finish making the trousers, I'm going to look at some tops, jackets and sweater tops.

Since I have altered the pattern so it fits, these pants a very fast sewing job (umm. I'm not putting in the crease and I'm adding belt loops. I should probably draft a contour waistband so it fits better). Cutting out the fabric is very quick (rotary cutter), and I can sew a fly zipper in 20 minutes. I'm not doing an elaborate seam finishing: just top stitching down the seam allowances with decorative stitches.

I'm going to try and use my bias tape collection to finish the seams. Now that I know that the pattern has been suitably altered, I can see that it will be easy to apply the bias tape before assembling the different pattern pieces. I have bazillions of yards and packets of bias and seam tape. Whenever I go to an estate sale that mentions sewing goods, I end up with more bias tape and zippers. My zipper drawers are full (yes, I have TWO drawers of all sorts of zippers), and I need to create a more organized space for the bias tape (and everything else in my apartment).

Speaking of estate sales, I found the mother load on Monday night, and it was right around the corner from my house. I had a trip planned to Costco and took a quick look at Craigslist. I saw that a "free stuff" listing that described "some sewing goods." Since the house was close by I decided to drop by. It turned that the previous owner (deceased several months earlier) was a serial crafter, from sewing to knitting to rug hooking to jewelry making. I was able to go through the items and ended up with a large amount of vintage patterns (including a lot of Stretch-and-Sew patterns), seam tape, more zippers, random yardage of nylon tricot in funky 1970s patterns, hem markers, and other stuff that I'm still going through. I ended up splitting the available collection of stuff with another sewist who was also going through the materials. My tiny little car was packed when I drove away. I told the young couple who were handling the distribution to call me if they found the button collection, but I also advised them that they could probably sell the buttons on eBay, especially if the buttons were on cards or that they would make a nice memento for someone in the family. I have an over abundance of fabrics and notions, so now I need to actually use some of it. When I go to estate sales, sometimes I see the foreshadowing of my own life....

August Accomplishments

I've been sewing a little bit, taking dance classes and have been watching way too much TV (as well as working and preparing for a work conference).

Sewing: I've made 2 more Simplicity 2614s. I still have a my muslin of Hot Patterns MoneyPenny PussyCat blouse to finish. I made one more pair of striped Hotpatterns Marrakesh pants. I used fabric with no stretch so they are slightly tight. I've put them away in the closet until I lose weight on my hips. I'm trying to eat less and exercise more.

I've also started working on a Jalie 2909, the simple trousers. I realize that Self-Stitched September is 2 weeks away. I need to make some autumn weight work clothing (autumn in the SF Bay area is not very cold). The Jalie 2909 pattern is very simple--there are 3 pattern pieces: the front, back and the waist band (okay, there is one more piece--the fly guard). I made what I think are my standard alterations: altering the back pattern piece for my full hips, which also includes lengthening the crotch and allowing for my full inner thighs. I'm almost finished with my first pair--I need to add the waistband, add the button closure and hem them. I'm planning on making further alterations: lengthening the hemline by 1 inch (right now, they seem to be just barely long enough--I'll have to use hemtape to hem them), lower the waistband (in the front, the waist already comes up to my navel and I still haven't added the waistband), and I will add belt loops because my measurements fluctuate throughout the month.

Dance classes. I've taken two dance workshops, 1 was very intensive, and I did enjoy going to back to dancing, I need remember to stretch. I developed a sore/tight IT band which made it painful to walk the next day. Stretching and massage helped a lot. I'm really enjoying my dance classes though. I forgot how much I missed them.

TV. I'm watching Project Runway, True Blood and Mad Men. Since I have comcast on demand, I end up watching the episodes in mini marathons, often while sewing. I know that it's more than a bit obsessive, but I have to admit, it's a lot of fun. Project Runway inspires me to sew, Mad Men inspires the styles, and well, after watching all the episodes of True Blood, it has made me reconsider becoming a vegetarian.

Project Runway, Season 8, episode 1 (no spoilers!)

Project Runway Season 8 started tonight. I watched the show (and will probably watch it again while sewing, if it's available on the On Demand schedule). My initial observations and reactions are:

1. It's an awful feeling when you realize that you have in your stash the fabric being dissed by the judges (either the exact fabric or it's cousin). Well, I can use it for a different garment. On the bright side, I also have material that is similar to the fabric that was used in the winning garment. Of course, it was mentioned in a silk purse/sow's ear context. Yah, I have the sow's ear. Several yards of it in different colors.
2. Most belly dancers don't dress like that. Well, maybe the skirt, but not the top. Unless they are intoxicated...
3. I like the longer format but the extra 30 minutes seemed to be absorbed by the large herd of designers. I'm hopeful that we will see more of the design process when there are fewer designers.
4. If I were on the show, I would pack a sarong, sari, or pashima shawl for fashion emergencies. Didn't any of the designers read articles on how to save space when packing for travel?
5. The Lifetime commercials are getting better. The movies still feature strong women characters, but they don't seem to be as cloying as they were during the last season. However, I do anticipate that by mid-August, I'll want to discipline all those high school students who attended the party where that main character's husband died under mysterious circumstances. "Just tell the truth right away and you will save many people from suffering and agony!"
6. The Austin Scarlett/Santino Rice show is strangely engaging. It's a combination of makeover show and a fish out-of-water show. I was expecting the designers to be very snarky, but they were very respectful which was a nice surprise.

African Fabrics from Michael's Fabrics/A Fabric Place

My bundle arrived from Michael's Fabrics today. They are gorgeous! I have 5 pieces which should be fun to work with. All of my fabrics came from the swatches that Sherri kindly sent me a earlier this month. ( I received 2, 4, 8, 9, 10) I'm going to wash them later this afternoon, so that they will be ready to go. I'm not certain which patterns I'm going to use but they are yummy. I found some new source of inspiration photographs--Jewel by Lisa-- courtesy of Eyeadaba's review on PR.

Right now, I'm recovering from a weekend dance workshop. I haven't attended a dance workshop in over a year. A weekend dance workshop means 3 hour class on Friday, 4 hours on Saturday, 4 hours on Sunday, and a show on both nights. I did not dance in the show on Saturday, but I did perform Sunday night. My arms and legs are very tired. I'm glad that I took Monday off from work. I'm happy to say that I made almost everything I wore this weekend (except lingerie and footwear), including the costume (very simple folkloric style). More on that later--I need to forage for some food.

Early Autumn 2010 Pattern Round-up

Simplicity, Vogue, McCall's have released their new patterns for Early Autumn 2010.

My top selections (in no particular order) are:

Simplicity 2339 - the Amazing Fit Shirt patterns with different pattern pieces for A, B, C & D cup sizes. I always buy the patterns where there are pattern pieces for different cup sizes.

Simplicity 2342 - the Amazing Fit Pleated pants, with different pieces for slim, average and curvy fit. I think that any pattern that will give me a head start on alterations is worth an investment.

Simplicity 2343 - Nice and Easy Pencil skirts., I like the interesting seam options, especially in views D, E, & F. I'm on the fence about the ruffles, but it's easy enough to omit.

[I'm not certain why this picture is so much smaller,but I'll try to fix it later]

Vogue 1203--Tracy Reese outfit. I like the top. The empire waist means that it's easy to alter, but I'm not certain how well it will look on women with full busts (e.g, myself). The skirt is okay (I'm not a fan of exposed zippers), but it doesn't appear special The outfit, as depicted on the envelope, is very nice, though.

Vogue 1204 - the Issei Miyake Tunic and Pants. Sigh. I like this but I have trouble seeing it look good on a curvy figure. I like the idea of making a slim cut pair of pants (in a plainer fabric--those diagonal lines on the pants on the pattern envelope make me dizzy). I like the cuff and the diagonal seaming on the tunic. I don't think that the drapey quality of the pattern would be flattering on curvy body. I imagine it would the fun puzzle trying to make the tunic follow my figure and go in at the waist.

Vogue 8672 - Easy Options. Five fun pencil skirts--just fun variations, with interesting waistbands, inserts and/or ruching. I don't wear a lot of skirts, but I can see this one being a classic.

Vogue 8664 - Very Easy Vogue Custom Fit for A, B, C, &D cup sizes. A lovely, slim-fit dress with a sweetheart neckline, with a head start on the alterations

Vogue 8679 - a wardrobe pattern with a jacket, skirt, top, and pants. I would buy it for the top--a simple raglan (short) sleeved t-shirt that's fitted.

McCall's 6162 - a classic sheath dress, with an inset waist. I'm glad that McCall's sewed up the version with the epaulet/tabbed sleeves, as I would have had trouble seeing how the tabs would have looked in real life (as opposed to judging from the technical drawing). Now I can see that the tabs don't really seem to work. The sleeveless or the sleeved version look great though. And it might be fun to play with the stripes/plaids/checks with this pattern (e.g. put the inset waist piece on the bias or on crosswise layout).

The eighties revival continues!

McCall's 6170--I like this motorcycle jacket, although with the asymmetrical zipper, it does appear to be channeling Michael Jackson in the 1980s.

McCall's 6171 - Made for you including custom patterns for A/B, C & D cups. instead of Michael Jackson, you can channel Eddie Murphy. I might pick this up (at a sale) for future reference.

And you can tell that it's the beginning of the sewing season: Halloween and Holiday gifts are starting to appear in the catalogs. Here's one that looks pretty cute:

McCall's 6180 - a Halloween costume for a child that is as cute as a bug ... or bee ... or arachnid!

fabric overload/ bundles

Hi, My name is Rose and I have a fabric buying problem. I see fabric, I want to hold and caress and own it. I have a hard time stepping back.

Michael's Fabrics of Maryland sent out a note earlier this week stating that they are selling some bundles of African cottons (42 inches wide). I asked Sherri if she had any more information about the fabrics, and she kindly scanned in some samples. I really wasn't going to order any more fabric (I already placed two other orders with them in the past 4 weeks), but when I saw the fabrics I bit and I ordered a small bundle.

(standard internet disclaimer) I don't work for or with Michael's Fabrics--I'm just a happy customer.

According to the email message, "these are authentic African cotton prints. They are 42 inches wide and some are metallic. We are offering bundles at $4.25 /yard. The cuts will be between 2-4 yards. They are 15, 20, 25, 30 and 50 yard bundles." So if you have questions about this fabric, please contact the Sherri or Michael using this information . I'm posting this because I've seen some questions about the African fabric on different internet forums. I won't answer any of the questions about the prices/shipping/availability, etc because I'm not the vendor. [I'm not planning on leaving this post up forever--I plan on removing it in a few weeks, as I imagine that the fabric will sold]

[Edited to add: Saturday 12:30 PDT--Sherri emailed me and let me know that many of the fabrics are depicted below have been sold out, but they have 30 or more of the African fabrics.]

Where did June go? Oh, well! On to July...

I hope that you have been as busy as I have. I've been distracted by work, working out, the World Cup, HBO (I subscribed so I can watch True Blood, but I didn't realize there were so many other shows available via On-Demand), and my home internet access breaking down. The internet access broke first, which led me around in circles for a while, trying to figure out what sort of internet/phone/tv/cell phone combination will work best for me. I didn't make any major changes, but thank goodness that I live in an apartment complex with neighbors who are generous with their wireless access. My new modem should arrive later this week, and I can stop imposing on my neighbors.

After the flurry of sewing in May, I slowed down in June. It's July and so I'm starting up again. I've worked on two blouses: I've perfected the Simplicity 2614 bias blouse pattern. Even though it has different pattern pieces for different bust sizes, I still had to do an FBA. I also lengthened it (I like to wear my shirts on the longer side). I also found out that this pattern works better in a drapey rayon weave, rather than a woven cotton (even if the cotton has crosswise stretch). This pattern goes together so quickly, that I should consider this part of my TNT patterns, even though I have made it only three times. I plan on making another version before the week is over.

I also tried putting together a muslin of HotPatterns Miss Moneypenny Pussycat blouse (HotPatterns 1047). I had traced out the pattern a month or so ago, but I actually cut it out in muslin to check the fit, as well as the instructions. I'm glad that I made a muslin, as I couldn't figure out how to add the tie-collar part (this pattern also has neck and buttonhole facings). NOTE: I have the older version of this pattern--HotPatterns original instruction style can be cryptic--I don't know if the instructions in newer version are different/clearer. Luckily, I still had Simplicity 2614 on my sewing table. One of the views features a tie-collar--I quickly cut some fabric for the view (of Simplicity 2614) with the necktie. The blouse went together very quickly and very nicely. I should be able to transfer the tie-collar instructions from the Simplicity pattern to the HotPatterns blouse. If I have time this weekend, I'll finish the muslin, and check for alterations.

I'm so happy that I'm experiencing success and progress with these two blouses. My default look at work is a knit t-shirt or blouse. They are better than what is available in ready-to-wear, but I've been feeling that they are too informal. I'm glad that I'm adding woven blouses to my self-sewn wardrobe. It's great--I can go through my stash and identify fabrics that are suitable for these blouses. One issue is that many of my stashed fabrics are informal. Ahh! well, it will be fun to see how I can use them all.